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ea82 valve train question


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27 replies to this topic

#1 mm88swrt

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 04:54 PM

i put my delta regrinds in and realized at any given time two of my followers were not contacting the lobes. was wonder if there was a tollerance between the two or if they are supposed to have full time contact. i don't have my factory manuals with me which is why i'm asking. and advice would help:popcorn:

#2 grossgary

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 08:21 PM

are they at full height as they would be when running and under oil pressure? when running the HLA's will pump up and remain in contact with the followers? when off the car they can bleed down and not be fully extended/pumped up.

just speculating....if the HLA's came out of a non-reground/stock cam head and now you're putting them in a non-stock cam equipped head - then the HLA's are likely stuck at a "stock" level so to speak and need to pump up more to take out that additional clearance?

i've installed a few sets of delta grinds and never had an issue, but never thought to check clearance as you're doing. i just put them in and start it up and let the HLA's pump up, they're usually crazy noisy after head jobs, cam job, rebuilds, etc. clear up in a few minutes.

Edited by grossgary, 06 October 2012 - 08:23 PM.


#3 Crazyeights

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 08:47 PM

@grossgary

Have you done the Delta torque grind cams on an SPFI EA82? Are they noisier than the stock grind? Are there any irritating drivability issues?

#4 Quidam

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Posted 06 October 2012 - 10:35 PM

The valve rocker and cam lobe stay in contact with the lash adjuster having .040 range where it makes adjustments.

Hope that makes sense.

Doug

#5 grossgary

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 06:53 AM

Have you done the Delta torque grind cams on an SPFI EA82? Are they noisier than the stock grind? Are there any irritating drivability issues?

i've installed two different grinds (forget the names) into XT6's - which are essentially EA82's with two more cylinders (same valves, springs, pistons, etc).

not noisier and no drivability issues.

one grind was the typical lumpy cam-ed thing - and was lacking in low end - but that was like (forget names and such), a step up from what most people get...probably supposed to be for racing or something, not daily driving. it wasn't the basic grind and i'm sure not what you got.

Doug just posted and knows his stuff about clearances and tolerances so follow his lead for tracking down your issue.

#6 mm88swrt

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:48 AM

Great help guys! I'm going to be tearing it apart today to inspect it. Should I be able to push all of the lifters? About half of them are to stiff to push by hand

#7 subynut

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 03:52 PM

From what I have read here, they should be pretty hard. They always were in my EA82s. Usually, when they were soft is when I would have the noisy lifters.

#8 Crazyeights

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 12:08 AM

I just finished rebuilding an EA82 and all of the lifters were too hard to push in by hand if that helps any. Cams were stock and there wasn't any clearance between the followers and cams once it was assembled.

#9 mm88swrt

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 04:17 AM

Well I just ordered a new set of lifters from ram performance. Hopefully it will pull up some slack in the clearance side of things. If not I will try to seek other ways of dealing with it. Maybe shim my lifter out just a bit, I'm not really sure. I just don't see Cams slapping around my followers all day as being a healthy pair.

#10 czny

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 08:47 AM

Did you have a valve regrind done on these heads? Once had a shop cut the stems too short leaving too much clearance. 3 of 4 cyls wouldn't make enough compression to run. Had to pull eng & tear down for cyl heads fix, again.:mad:

If not maybe there's enough gap @ valve stems for lash caps? Not really good practice to sink the valves deeper.

Attached Files


Edited by czny, 09 October 2012 - 08:50 AM.


#11 mm88swrt

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 09:26 AM

I did have the valves seated by the machine shop that did my block. All of the valves were set to factory depth. If new lifters do not solve it, I see two options. A:replace my brand new oversized ss valves, or b: put a small shim behind my litter to move it out just a hair. Any objections to b? Would be easy and not mess up any oil flow.

#12 ivans imports

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 09:57 AM

when you grind cams you need to plane the cam caier down the same amount have seen thiss before

#13 czny

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:05 PM

when you grind cams you need to plane the cam caier down the same amount have seen thiss before


So, stock cam base diameter minus reground cam base diameter divided by 2 equals amount needed to be cut from cam carriers.

Just measured 2 stock 86 EA82 cams. Base diameter is 1.339"(34.01 mm).

Hope this doesn't advance the cam timing by too much. ;)

#14 Crazyeights

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:12 PM

34.01 stock, so what is the base circle of the ground cams?

#15 czny

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:19 PM

34.01 stock, so what is the base circle of the ground cams?


I wouldn't know.
Need to ask the OP to measure his regrinds. Or contact Delta Cams. Or wait for Doug.

#16 mm88swrt

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 08:32 PM

I will get a Mic on them as soon as I get back into town. Looks like its another trip to the machine shop for this guy :( either that or I will call delta tomorrow and get the specs from them. Then Mic mine just to double check. With that being said I'm hoping it will not advance the timing to much.

#17 Quidam

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 11:20 PM

I will get a Mic on them as soon as I get back into town. Looks like its another trip to the machine shop for this guy :( either that or I will call delta tomorrow and get the specs from them. Then Mic mine just to double check. With that being said I'm hoping it will not advance the timing to much.


It's not clear if Delta sent you shims to compensate for what was removed. I thought it was standard procedure for them to do so. Shaving the cam cases would also work.

I don't see where it would advance the timing too much. Just more duration, valves open longer.


Doug

#18 ivans imports

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 10:07 AM

the diss should move enuff to compesate for it

#19 mm88swrt

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 04:27 PM

Contacted delta today. What ken had to say was pick up some #10 ss washers and put them underneath the lifters. Which is what I was thinking of doing. I did not get around to asking about what profile my cams have on them or any measurements. Just the issue at hand. So its all getting taken care of, one I get my new HLA's in the mail, along with those washers. Everyone here has been a great help! Thanks. Now I just need to get it running, and fuel stuff taken care of and I will post a dyno sheet :)

#20 mm88swrt

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 12:53 AM

well i've gotten the motor put in, everything went super smooth. got all the stuff hooked up and she fired right up!!! HLA noise as expected went away and motor was running great for an hour and a half. turned the car on and off a few times through out the day. no problems at all.... untill a few hours ago when i started it and it was idling, the dash lights blinked and the tack would fall and come back at the same time. did that a few times and then died. would not start back up. i've seen the same symptoms when the ditsy would fill up with oil as i talked about, but to my suprise when i took it out and looked at it the darn thing was dry. i'm thinking maybe the "eye" in it is bad? the fusible links are all good and have great connections. i pulled the ditsy out a few times and disconnected the battery. i could get it to fire up again now and then but just for a few seconds. when i try to fire it i get all lights but the fuel pump does not kick on when key is turned on. the tack jumps then rests at 0 when key is turned on, but when cranking it does not register. i'm getting stumped and really bumbed seeming as though i'm about 5k deep into my motor. anyone got any suggestions? i will try anything! thanks

#21 rdweninger

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:10 PM

Sounds similar to the problem I had on my '85 ea82. The distributor was bad. I had it rebuilt by Philbin (Portland, OR). But first... I swapped in a spare disty to verify the problem. Try a spare disty if you have one. Or swap the disty from your buddy's car for testing. HTH. Ron W.

#22 mm88swrt

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 11:49 PM

That's what I'm thinking I will try. I've got to try and find one at a yard to see if it will change things. Is there a way to test the ditsy? I looked in my factory manuals and could not find anything. As for now she sits lifeless. Would this also make the fuel pump not kick on when in the key on position?

#23 subynut

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:46 AM

Yes. There's a little box under the dash that monitors the tach signal. As long as it sees pulses from the ditsy, it will keep the fuel pump running.
This is Subaru's way to kill the fuel pump in an accident situation on Carbed Ea82s.

#24 mm88swrt

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 03:04 PM

Yes. There's a little box under the dash that monitors the tach signal. As long as it sees pulses from the ditsy, it will keep the fuel pump running.
This is Subaru's way to kill the fuel pump in an accident situation on Carbed Ea82s.


Do you happen to know what this box looks like, and where it is at? I had a leak in the windshield for a bit and was dripping down by the fuse box area. Maybe it went bad. I'm not sure. Currently trying to find a ditsy to test out

#25 subynut

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 03:14 PM

I believe it sits above the hood release against the wall. It's a black box with a six or eight pin connector. I'll take a look at my sister's '87 to make sure later tonight.




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