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School me on 06 WRX rear wheel bearing


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17 replies to this topic

#1 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 02:08 PM

any good threads, DIY guides?

I THINK I once was in a thread that mentioned changing them out may have gotten easier in 'later' model cars.

I was doing some 6 month maintnance and discoved my left rear wheel moves about 1 or 2 millimeters in all directions. I was susupicu=ious I had a new noise back there, found it. dang!

I am not gonna buy a hub tamer or other expensive specialized gear - so, i may take it to my dealer.

just kinda like to confirm how hard/easy it might be since I'm off work for a coupla more days.

(kinda disappointed , I also found a split boot on my wife's outback. sigh....)

#2 edrach

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 07:42 PM

That's one job that I would leave to a professional shop. Either that or hit the junkyards until I found a hub with decent bearings and just replace the whole thing and hope for the best.

By the way, which model are you talking about here?

#3 torxxx

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 08:17 PM

unbolt the hub, install new hub

They should be a bolt on hub after 2004

I'm about to go back to my shop, I'll crawl under my 06 Legacy and double check

#4 Caboobaroo

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 08:32 PM

unbolt the hub, install new hub

They should be a bolt on hub after 2004

I'm about to go back to my shop, I'll crawl under my 06 Legacy and double check


Not quite.....


The Forester, Impreza, WRX and STi had press in wheel bearings front and rear until 2008 when they became bolt in all around. Legacys starting in 2000 had bolt in rear wheel bearings and in 2005, the fronts became bolt in as well. Even though 2005 Legacy rear bearing assemblies look the same as the 00-04, they are not. The '05 and newer have the ABS tone ring built into the bearing where the older style has the tone ring on the axle still and putting an olr style into a newer car will damage the ABS sensor!

Almost made that mistake when I got the wrong one close to bolted in.

Now it would be something I would have someone at least press out and in the bearing but removing the knuckle isn't too difficult. Remember where the parking brake hardware goes and you should be all right.

Oh and buy an Empi boot kit and reboot the axle. I think they retail right around $30/joint and yes, it's a messy job but fairly simple.

Hope that helps!:D

Edited by Caboobaroo, 08 October 2012 - 08:36 PM.


#5 torxxx

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 09:43 PM

ahhh gotcha, I'm strictly a legacy guy lol which is why I figured they were all hub style... Wonder why Subaru did it that way? Hub seems like a lot better/simpler idea

#6 ShawnW

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 10:33 PM

Its hit or miss. The bolt in doesn't seem to last as long but the press style is more work to replace. Personally, I own a hub tamer and would rather own a car with press style but would rather get paid to replace bolt in style ones.

#7 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 11:06 PM

I tried to interpret the drawings at opposedforces . Looks like a sliding hammer, then an outer seal, a bearing, 2 inner seals - maybe a snap rin or 2. NOTHING there looks like any kinda bolt in unit.

ugh

also discovered a broken fornt anti-sway bar link. That problem explains the car 'porpoising' in fsat tight sweeping turns. Stupid plasic suspension part!

My cars are starting to fall apart. The WRX has under 42K miles! Rear wheel bearing, broken ASB link - seriously?

any pics or guides for the knuckle removal? might save a little if I just haul that down to the dealership for repair.

with my wife recovering from her knee surgery, at least we don't have a pressing need for both cars, but it's hard to spend as much time with the cars due to housework, nursing the wife, etc. And I'm supposed to go back to work on Thursday. ugh

didn't get everything done i wanted - PLUS found more work!

#8 avk

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 11:08 PM

ahhh gotcha, I'm strictly a legacy guy lol which is why I figured they were all hub style... Wonder why Subaru did it that way? Hub seems like a lot better/simpler idea

They were late to change the design for some reason. Probably because all models basically had the same suspension and drivetrain, and they were leaving good enough alone.

Edited by avk, 08 October 2012 - 11:17 PM.


#9 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 11:30 PM

I'll look tomorrowbut, just for clarity, this pic is what the newer legacies have, but I do not (correct ? )on my 06 Impreza;

http://www.scoobymod...20&d=1343097463

#10 ShawnW

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 12:37 AM

Yes, that shows the bolt in style and you must have the press in ones. Be happy I think once you replace that bearing you won't ever again. I always use NTN or KOYO brand ones if I can get them. I believe they are are the OEM. There are 3 seals btw, 2 inners and 1 outer. I get a "kit" for about $75.

#11 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 12:40 AM

Yes, that shows the bolt in style and you must have the press in ones. Be happy I think once you replace that bearing you won't ever again. I always use NTN brand ones if I can get them. I believe they are are the OEM.



Thanx, whether I drive in or take the knuckle, I will confirm with the shop NTN bearing and OEM seals.

do most shops remove the knuckle for this or do the repair on the car? That is, would I really be saving much money by taking the knuckle in?

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 09 October 2012 - 01:02 AM.


#12 Caboobaroo

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 09:09 PM

Yes, that shows the bolt in style and you must have the press in ones. Be happy I think once you replace that bearing you won't ever again. I always use NTN or KOYO brand ones if I can get them. I believe they are are the OEM. There are 3 seals btw, 2 inners and 1 outer. I get a "kit" for about $75.


Sounds like a similar kit I use as well!

Thanx, whether I drive in or take the knuckle, I will confirm with the shop NTN bearing and OEM seals.

do most shops remove the knuckle for this or do the repair on the car? That is, would I really be saving much money by taking the knuckle in?


You don't need to if you have a hub tamer but since I do not, I always remove the knuckle and use a floor press...

#13 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 09:20 PM

I'm not happy, but I made an appointment with the dealership to get the bearing and a coupla other things done.

I was assured they will use OEM parts and this way, i get a warranty and hopefully an experienced person on the job.

Tools to do this myself would have cost 1.5 or more labor hours. And I might only use them onec or twice. I didn't check if they can be rented/borrowed. Plus, it's unknown territory for me. At least they will give me loaner car and will probably do in hours what would take me 2 days lol!

wish I had tha HBA deal in this car.

#14 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 09:18 AM

dealership is charging $529

It's a lot of money, but probably fair. I would need 150-$200 of tools from harbor Freight to DIY it. Throw in that is before the 90-$100 parts w'ever.

And I might screw it up - yeah, I'll let them do it. On the plus side, they said my 06 doesn't have the same problem with the turbo banjo bolt screen as the previous years. Downside, they found a small split on the inner DS axle boot.

I might try re-booting it myself, but those boot bands, ugh, what kinda tool tightens/secures those thing? RockAuto sells a raybestos boot kit for about $10;

http://www.rockauto....r/8162949-2.jpg

#15 avk

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 09:37 AM

http://www.amazon.co...50484130&sr=8-1
I currently have a cheaper 30600 pliers that work from the side, but 30800 is much sturdier (saw it in a store) and has a cam to flatten the pinched ear. Also use snap ring pliers.

Edited by avk, 17 October 2012 - 10:07 AM.


#16 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 10:41 AM

http://www.amazon.co...50484130&sr=8-1
I currently have a cheaper 30600 pliers that work from the side, but 30800 is much sturdier (saw it in a store) and has a cam to flatten the pinched ear. Also use snap ring pliers.


thanx

#17 Caboobaroo

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 02:53 PM

In order to do the axle reboot, you will need to drain the transmission as it will puke gear oil out of the axle seal once the axle is removed.

Since its an inner boot, its fairly easy once the axle is out. Remove the old band clamps, just inside the inner axle cup is a wire snap ring that you can use a small flathead screwdriver to remove. Do not throw it out as you'll need it to put back together. It is there to prevent the joint from coming out of the cup. Then remove the snap ring right on top of the axle shaft that holds the inner portion of the joint onto the shaft, remove the boot and install the new one. I think you can rent axle boot clamp tools as well. The nice thing about the Empi kits is the clamps are fairly easy to pinch together whereas the factory clamps are a bear...

#18 unibrook

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 01:00 PM

PM sent re my step-by-step guide on wheel bearing replacement in your driveway. (many thx to Hohieu btw)




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