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'86 Subaru GL Turbo


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78 replies to this topic

#51 zukiru

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 09:58 AM

I went to napa and they got a new o-ring but i had an old one to help match it up.

#52 TOsborn

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 07:17 PM

Thanks, ended up sourcing a new o-ring since the old one was mangled. 

 

Also, making progress slightly, thought a few setbacks.

 

One intake manifold bolt broke off in the head.  My tried and true method of heat + a LH drill bit didn't work.  So off to order a slightly bigger LH bit and try again.  Worse case scenario is a heli coil.  Not too bad, but kind of annoying and time consuming.

 

Replacing water pump as well.  Only issue is the crank pulley is being a bear to get off.  It'll come off, just back to the garage for some more swearing and heavy metal music to help coax it off of there! 



#53 Subruise

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 12:39 AM

i dont remember what trans you have, but if its a manual put it in 4wd(lo if ya got it) 5th gear w e brake on.

 

 

if its an auto first of all, my apologies for having to run that, do the breaker bar/bump the starter method. 



#54 TOsborn

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 01:03 AM

It's a manual.  That was the first thing I tried, ended up slowly scooting my car across the garage, even with it in 5th with ebrake on.  It'll come off, just more coaxing.



#55 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 03:36 AM

Thanks, ended up sourcing a new o-ring since the old one was mangled. 

 

Also, making progress slightly, thought a few setbacks.

 

One intake manifold bolt broke off in the head.  My tried and true method of heat + a LH drill bit didn't work.  So off to order a slightly bigger LH bit and try again.  Worse case scenario is a heli coil.  Not too bad, but kind of annoying and time consuming.

 

Replacing water pump as well.  Only issue is the crank pulley is being a bear to get off.  It'll come off, just back to the garage for some more swearing and heavy metal music to help coax it off of there! 

 

Re the crank pulley: If you have a 2-3 foot breaker bar, you can prop it against the subframe near the battery and bump the starter (key it for only a split second) and it will break loose.



#56 TOsborn

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:31 PM

^going to use that as a last resort.  I don't really like "not being in control" of my tightening/loosening of hardware.  Though I bet it works!



#57 Subruise

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:15 PM

wedge the wheels?

 

    the bolt wont back out and fall off as long as you disconnect the coil wire. only bump it for a second. itll be broke loose. the important thing is to brace the breaker bar in such a way as to not let it swing at all when you crank it. ive done this to subarus dozens of times and the only damage was when i forgot to pull the punch out (and that was assembly, not dis assembly)

 

you retain control if the coil cant fire the plugs



#58 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:30 PM

I use a rag or a paper bag to wedge the socket onto the crank bolt to keep it from falling out/stripping as well.

 

It sounds a lot more scary than it is lol. The alternative would be to wedge something into the flywheel.

Good luck!



#59 zukiru

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 07:36 PM

I have a special tool. Well actually its a screw driver that fits the hole in the flywheel. Its tip is gone and it has a bend it but it works wonderfully.

#60 TOsborn

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:05 PM

Well, intake is now fully on and hooked up!  Just water pump left to do now.

 

Heli-coil on cyl head went very well (easiest one I've ever done).  Now that head has two heli coils in it, as it stripped an exhaust stud hole earlier.  While torquing the intake on, I think I may have stripped the threads on one of the shorter bolts.  I found a torque spec that said 35ft-lbs, so I went with that.  Once the first bolt felt like it may be stripping, I backed off and instead torqued all intake bolts to 20-25ft-lbs.  Should still seal fine, if not, rip it off and heli-coil some more! (might as well get some good use out of the $40 kit...)

 

Here's the engine bay as it sat early yesterday, all cleaned up and ready to start going back together.

 



#61 TOsborn

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 02:08 AM

Back together!  Good news is, it runs, and doesn't leak any liquids.  Bad news is, I somehow picked up an exhaust leak (probably has something to do with EGR as that's the only exhaust thing I touched), and I think I have a leak in the intake somewhere as when under boost it sounds a bit louder.  My old water pump was completely not a pump anymore, so glad to have a new one installed.

 

Glad it runs though!



#62 rpholz

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:46 AM

Could it be the under torqued intake bolts that are your intake leak?

#63 TOsborn

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 11:41 AM

^Anything is possible. I'm guessing old vacuum line is leaking somewhere.



#64 TOsborn

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 01:26 PM

And it's fixed, EGR was acting a bit leaky in both intake/exhaust.  Runs like a top now.



#65 TOsborn

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 11:20 PM

Decided to pull the plugs today for a check, not too happy with what I found.  Both passenger side plugs look a bit lean, while the driver side plugs look fine.  Hmm...may be time to compression test it.


Edited by TOsborn, 19 May 2013 - 11:21 PM.


#66 TOsborn

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 09:41 PM

Decided to replace the plugs (haven't in the 15k+ miles I've owned the car, and who knows how long they've been in there) and fuel filter today.  Car seems to love the new stuff, as it smoothed out the idle a bit more.  Runs like a darn top now.

 

After some further thought, I determined it's not running lean, just very worn out plugs.  A few hundred miles then check again and I'll know for sure.

 

And here's a photo of the engine bay post intake swap.  Not quite entirely scrubbed clean, but getting there!  Looks a million times better than when I bought it.

 

DSCN3250_zpsf3600bee.jpg


Edited by TOsborn, 21 May 2013 - 09:41 PM.


#67 TOsborn

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:10 PM

After some thought today, decided that since the car is now running better than ever (it loved the new plugs and filter) it's time to pass it on so someone else can enjoy it.  Plus Quattro San keeps staring at me from under a tarp begging me to start working on it.

 

So, for sale time!

 

http://www.ultimates...gl-hatch-ea82t/



#68 TOsborn

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 11:50 PM

Car is still up for sale, but in the meantime it has been performing flawlessly, as usual.

 

Took it down to the Nameless Rally in Shelton this weekend.  Great time, and really good stage viewing areas!  The GL fit right in line in the spectator parking area:

 

 

 

Also, if I still own the car late next month, I plan on entering the ORG rallycross at Chehalis with it.  I've spectated at enough rallies, and it's about darn time I tried competitive driving in the dirt.  I've done a ton of AutoX events in FSAE (formula styled) race cars on pavement, but the dirt looks like a hoot and a half.  Only thing I would like to fix before then is to put some more negative camber in the front end, as the stock 1-2 degrees of positive is horrible for any kind of cornering.  Any advice at adding camber adjustment is welcome, but I've also got a few ideas...



#69 AKghandi

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 08:48 AM

Something tells me after you rally that car, that Quattro san will have a new destiny.



#70 TOsborn

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 10:52 PM

Well, hopefully QS will still end up a street car.  I checked up on it recently in storage, it's still hiding well!

 

Tested the efan switch tonight in a pot of boiling water, works well so I stripped out the toggle switch and wiring I added during my drive to LA.  Cleans things up a bit more.



#71 nobangmycar

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Posted 06 July 2013 - 06:04 PM

Very cool ride.  Enjoyed reading your thread man.  I almost bought one of these last week, but settled on a sedan that was ten times cheaper and ten times better.



#72 rpholz

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 01:04 PM

Idk, from the looks of it this 3dr is pretty clean. Hard to imagine 10x better

#73 Turbone

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 01:46 PM

Car is still up for sale, but in the meantime it has been performing flawlessly, as usual.

 

Took it down to the Nameless Rally in Shelton this weekend.  Great time, and really good stage viewing areas!  The GL fit right in line in the spectator parking area:

 

DSCN32812_zps282d0021.jpg

 

Also, if I still own the car late next month, I plan on entering the ORG rallycross at Chehalis with it.  I've spectated at enough rallies, and it's about darn time I tried competitive driving in the dirt.  I've done a ton of AutoX events in FSAE (formula styled) race cars on pavement, but the dirt looks like a hoot and a half.  Only thing I would like to fix before then is to put some more negative camber in the front end, as the stock 1-2 degrees of positive is horrible for any kind of cornering.  Any advice at adding camber adjustment is welcome, but I've also got a few ideas...

 

Should have come to the service area. I was working one of the timing tables.



#74 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 08:16 PM

Idk, from the looks of it this 3dr is pretty clean. Hard to imagine 10x better

 

I think he was referring to 10x better than the one he looked at.



#75 TOsborn

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:25 AM

Back in Tacoma for the weekend, looking to get a lot of work done on both this and QS.

 

DSCN3336_zps7ded36ea.jpg

 

Garage full of 4wd turbo cars.

 

DSCN3340_zps4a1bc3b9.jpg

 

My dad and I made some custom EA82 front lower control arms, adjusted with shims.  Going to be installed tomorrow on the blue car for testing.


Edited by TOsborn, 23 August 2013 - 01:28 AM.





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