14 replies to this topic

[later, Peter]

1999 OBW
Recently replaced rear shocks (one was broken)... still have the clunk noise... I can see daylight around one of the rear stabilizer link bushings... (I imagine the others ain't too good either)
So, the question: can the bushings be repaced (with too much trouble) or just replace both links?
btw... already 181 & 1/2 k on the vehicle....
Thanks for the input.
Later,
Peter

[cal_look_zero]

They can be replaced moderately easily. If you want a really solid ride, you can go with Group N bushings, or just replace with OEM.

http://rallispec.com...rt_stibush2.htm

[later, Peter]

I guess I wasn't clear (that blow up helps a lot)... I'm asking about the links that are shaped like (parentheses) yeah those things.... I was told they're called rear stabilizer links but maybe not...
later,
Peter

[cal_look_zero]

You mean these guys:



Those are your sway bar end links. Better just to replace those, no sense in monkeying with the bushings.

http://www.ebay.com/...7c1ee96&vxp=mtr

[Fairtax4me]

Stabilizer bar = sway bar. Or more accurately, anti-sway or anti-roll bar. Same part different name. Links, end links, joints, end rods, all the same idea.

I don't know if you can buy just the bushings separate from the links (havent ever looked), but the plastic does deteriorate with age and can break, so its usually better to just replace the link.

[1 Lucky Texan]

you might be able to get a Kartboy or Whiteline 'upgraded' after market for about what new resin (that's what we call plastic nowadays cause it doesn't sound cheap and wimpy) links from Subaru cost. They might be slightly noisier.

I recently had a reason to check into front drop links due to an on-going 'discussion' with Geico about hidden (actually concealed) damage from a wreck in 2011.

[later, Peter]

I ordered the links as per "cal_look_zero" & they're do to me Monday or Tuesday... I am also on the look out for an impact wrench to help do the job (although I may just be using a nice ol' breaker bar)...
that's the story so far.
Thanks for the advice/help, gentlemen!
later,
Peter

[cal_look_zero]

You shouldn't need a breaker bar. They're just 12 or 14mm nut and through bolt. I'd say jack the car up and soak the threads and nuts with PB blaster so it can soak in for a day or 2.

[Caboobaroo]

Super easy to do with just hand tools really. If you need any help, shoot me a PM and if you're close, I could help out.

[johnceggleston]

the end links are usually loaded when in the air and on the ground. at some point during the transition from up to down, or vice verse, the bolt holes will line up with almost no load.

finding that point makes the job much easier.

[J A Blazer]

Important point is that the in order to remove these endlinks, there can not be any torsion on the antisway bar at the point when you try to remove them.

[later, Peter]

how do I achieve that? Do I need the jack/stands under frame or under suspension?

[1 Lucky Texan]

I would think with the entire rear on jack stands, any slight offset after one side is connected could be lined-up with a floor or scissor jack under the 'low' side to lift it slightly (be careful). But I haven't done it yet - but that is likely coming up soon. Long story but, if Service King doesn't install my Kartboy links on the front sway bar, I'll do it when I get my car back.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 01 November 2012 - 03:25 PM.

[cal_look_zero]

I changed out my whole RSB for one from a WRX. Just jacked up the rear and put stands under the pinch welds on the body. Unbolted the 2 clamps holding the bar to the body, and the whole thing swings out. There's not much (if any) tension on the bar when the wheels are off the ground.

[later, Peter]

just came back in from seeing if I could undo without the "zapgun" (which I could). & I placed a floor jack under the rear bar where it hooks into the link... too easy. NOW if those parts would get here! UPS where are you?
later,
Peter