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6 lug conversion drill template ready
Posted 02 April 2004 - 06:01 PM
Posted 02 April 2004 - 06:41 PM
Posted 02 April 2004 - 07:57 PM
If the studs are hardened, welding could make them a little more brittle. I may build up the uneven parts of the back of the hub with weld then grind it flat.
Your method obviously works, but i like the idea of having less than 0.005" error on the stud placement.
I'm still looking for rear disk setup. Does anyone know if the hubs are the same, front '83, '84 to rear disk '85 to '89? It would be great if I only had to carry one spare hub that would work on any location.
Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:02 PM
Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:31 PM
Posted 03 April 2004 - 01:24 AM
The back of the hub really should be counterbored or milled flat for the stud to seat on.
Posted 05 April 2004 - 11:22 AM
The milling machine is for circuit board material, it does not handle metal. It is in a RF design lab. I do have a friend with a lathe, and I talked to him about building up the back of the hub with weld, then making it flat on the lathe before drilling the holes. The template is available anytime. The more use it gets, the better. Do you press out the unwanted studs or grind them off? If you press them out, do you fill the hole with weld, or leave it open?
Thanks for the info on the hole size. I have not purchased the studs yet, but am hoping to find better pricing. So far the tire places want $4 or $5 each, whether they press them in or not. I have not talked to the auto parts stores yet.
Posted 05 April 2004 - 12:07 PM
Posted 05 April 2004 - 05:06 PM
Posted 05 April 2004 - 06:28 PM
Before I bought the mill I used to hold stuff in a tool post vice on the lathe and then hold the end mill in the 4 jaw chuck and take very light cuts...
Posted 06 April 2004 - 01:02 AM
Posted 06 April 2004 - 01:43 AM
The rest of the hub is then again stress relieved. The only place that can do this for you is a professional heat treatment shop. No home use equipment is suitable for doing the above properly.
Posted 06 April 2004 - 09:06 AM
instad of heating stuff up he cryogenically tempers teh steel with extreme cold
from what i ahve learned when i pop in every now and there at school to say hi
is that it works well on crankshafts and is very popular for gun barrels
for instance i do not recall teh actual rate but but its pretty close
where a normal gunbarrel would stay accurate for say oh 1000 shots <just a example i forget his actual numbers>
before the bore wore down enough to lose the rifling in it and throw off the accuracy
the same .. well identical barrel cryo treated
is good for around 2-3000 shots before a noticeble shift in accuracy
and he has actually tested this
if you can find someone having the hub and such cryo treated may be a bit better if not cheaper?
i do not know how much he charges but if anyone wants i can ask next time i am in the area
i been thinking of getting my suby crank treated
Posted 06 April 2004 - 12:10 PM
Posted 06 April 2004 - 08:04 PM
Posted 06 April 2004 - 08:55 PM
You already have it in a drillpress. Why cant ya just flip it over and countersink the holes?
Posted 06 April 2004 - 09:01 PM
On a side note, Gonehuntin, get a hold of me when you have time to talk.
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