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Clicking Axle: Worry Or Not?
Posted 06 April 2004 - 05:48 PM
A couple of years ago I slid off wet pavement and kissed the curb with the right front wheel of my 88 wagon. This caused a rather spontaneous rearrangement of the front end drivetrain - scrap one wheel and tire, strut, lower control arm, and axle shaft. My dear State Farm insurance wanted to total the car for this, saying it would cost $2200 to fix (with all new parts of course). I talked them into letting me have the car fixed at my local favorite Subaru junkyard (Jim Reed Motors in Austin, you may have seen this place referenced in another post from me).
Anyway, they did a great job on the rebuild. It aligned just fine, and drives just like new. They put in used parts which were in good condition, but now I'm starting to get some axle clicking from the right front when making sharp turns under power. It's becoming apparent the axle shaft they put in must have had quite a few more miles on it than the original.
My question: What if any is the risk of just continuing to drive with this axle? I don't do a lot of off-roading, maybe the occasional beach trip. Most of my driving is highway and commuting to work. The clicking shows up only under the sharpest part of a turn, and goes away as I straighten out. Should I go ahead and shotgun this axle, or is it safe to just live with it?
Posted 06 April 2004 - 06:34 PM
New is better than the average reman.. However I have heard very good things about www.cvaxles.com
You got a couple of years out of a used axle.. thats not bad.. I got 8 months out of a nice fresh reman I just had to replace.
Next time they offer to toal your car like that, let them.. then take the cash and buy it back for $25 bucks and fix it.. you will still have cash in your pocket
Posted 06 April 2004 - 07:48 PM
if you continue, you risk breaking brake line, and other parts in its path of destruction
rebuilt with new stub and neoprene boots
Posted 06 April 2004 - 08:18 PM
Posted 06 April 2004 - 08:45 PM
Posted 06 April 2004 - 11:52 PM
Posted 07 April 2004 - 12:04 AM
Today I replaced the pass side axle on a 95 FWD Auto Legacy in 28 min and the drivers in 21.
Yesterday I did the pass side one on the Brat in 31 min.
Clicked when turning hard left was left axle today.
Posted 07 April 2004 - 12:13 AM
Posted 07 April 2004 - 12:56 AM
Posted 07 April 2004 - 06:23 PM
Great advice you and everyone have given here! It's ok to brag. Brag with some more details, if you would... what sequence of steps to replace the axle, since it can be done by the home mechanic?
Posted 07 April 2004 - 07:50 PM
side note: all 8 boots are missing. too lazy to put my new axles in.
Posted 07 April 2004 - 08:54 PM
Remove wheel, remove axle nut.
Remove 14MM ball joint bolt.
I use a gorilla bar (long pry bar) and pop the knuckle off the balljoint just below the 14MM ball joint to knuckle bolt.
Then I approach the axle pin. I take a 10MM deep metric impact socket, stick the punch into that (fits perfect) and then stick an appropriate amt of extentions onto it so I can hammer on the "extended" punch easier.
Then you can slide the axle off the inner stub. Then you persuade the axle out of the bearings (alot easier on a Legacy) by tapping the end of the axle with a hammer (protect threads with woodblock or use a plastic deadblow hammer).
Once the axle is out its a reverse of the removal.
Applying a little wheel bearing grease to the axle end makes the slide in easier.
The control arm can be popped back into the knuckle pretty easy by either tapping again with the deadblow hammer or by using a floor jack gently. I find the 2nd method to be a little dangerous but it works well. (courtesy of MilesFox on that tip).
I use Air tools for the axle nut and 14MM ball joint bolt. Lots faster.
HAND torque lug nuts especially on legacy models as this will screw up your brake rotors. It will warp them rather quickly.
Posted 08 April 2004 - 12:43 AM
Posted 08 April 2004 - 07:00 PM
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