Is there a way to check/change rod bearings without splitting the cases?
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Guest Message by DevFuse
How can you "check" the bottom end?
Started by
uniberp
, Oct 25 2012 11:08 AM
7 replies to this topic
#2
CNY_Dave
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- Members
- 1,113 posts
03 LL Bean H6
- Near Cortland NY
Posted 25 October 2012 - 11:42 AM
Can't access them without splitting the block, I think.
If they aren't making noise, they are good for a good number more miles, though.
If you are chasing low oil pressure that's likely something else- loose bolts on the oil pump, pickup that is cracked, or worn out main bearings.
If they aren't making noise, they are good for a good number more miles, though.
If you are chasing low oil pressure that's likely something else- loose bolts on the oil pump, pickup that is cracked, or worn out main bearings.
#3
GeneralDisorder
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- Members
- 20,278 posts
Elite Master of the Subaru
- Portland
Posted 25 October 2012 - 12:37 PM
Drop the pan and baffle plate and cut open the filter (with a FILTER CUTTER - you don't want to "create" misleading metal shavings) and check for metal. These are the only good ways to know what's going on inside it.
The bearings are totally inaccessible without a complete tear down.
GD
The bearings are totally inaccessible without a complete tear down.
GD
#4
uniberp
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- 595 posts
mpergielwalkermi
- Walker, MI
Posted 25 October 2012 - 12:49 PM
Can't access them without splitting the block, I think.
If they aren't making noise, they are good for a good number more miles, though.
If you are chasing low oil pressure that's likely something else- loose bolts on the oil pump, pickup that is cracked, or worn out main bearings.
Thanks. IMO, "noise" is relative on these engines. My '08 with 65k is not quiet, but it has no tick, slap, or tap.
Me, I am now skeptical about this so-called "piston slap" noise. Funny how it got worse just before it turned into full-blown rod-knock. This one in the 99 is pending. After a normal commute, it taps every time around. One piston or one rod? My guess is a rod.
Oil pressure is fine, AFAIK, although it is burning oil 1qt per tank, which I hate.
BTW The solution of "knurling" pistons seems 'way iffy to me, with a built-in life expectancy.
#5
GeneralDisorder
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- 20,278 posts
Elite Master of the Subaru
- Portland
Posted 25 October 2012 - 01:59 PM
Knurling simply holds more oil to the skirts. Making them a little tighter and quieter. It works. It doesn't wear out because the knurling puts indentations in the skirt that don't wear off.
GD
GD
#6
Quidam
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1000+ Super USER!
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Posted 25 October 2012 - 01:59 PM
Is there a way to check/change rod bearings without splitting the cases?
One advantage to changing your own oil and filter. Take a close look at the oil that is drained. If the rod bearings are going, you'll see the flakes in the drain pan.
Doug
#7
CNY_Dave
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- Members
- 1,113 posts
03 LL Bean H6
- Near Cortland NY
Posted 25 October 2012 - 02:46 PM
Thanks. IMO, "noise" is relative on these engines. My '08 with 65k is not quiet, but it has no tick, slap, or tap.
Me, I am now skeptical about this so-called "piston slap" noise. Funny how it got worse just before it turned into full-blown rod-knock. This one in the 99 is pending. After a normal commute, it taps every time around. One piston or one rod? My guess is a rod.
Oil pressure is fine, AFAIK, although it is burning oil 1qt per tank, which I hate.
BTW The solution of "knurling" pistons seems 'way iffy to me, with a built-in life expectancy.
Well, when the rod bearings get loose enough the connecting rod big-end hits the block and knocks out a chunk, so at least then you know what it was!
#8
Gloyale
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It's a sickness
- Corvallis, OR PNW
Posted 26 October 2012 - 12:00 PM
After a normal commute, it taps every time around. One piston or one rod? My guess is a rod.
Doesn't seem like piston slap.
Piston slap ussually is bad when cold, then goes away when the piston warms up and expands.
Are you sure it's not valve noise? That is a solid rocker setup. Needs adjusted every 50k or so.
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