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Replace both CV/DOJ boots, no axle removal, recommendations?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 mkoch

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:26 AM

1984 GL 4wd wagon,

All four of the boots are ripped on the front axles.

The CV joints are not causing any problems.

I would like to replace the boots without removing the whole axle from the car. That is, remove the DOJ, and slide a boot over to the CV joint.

What boots, and source, are recommended for this task?

#2 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 09:23 AM

I'll be honest i haven't messed with CV's much...but if your gonna replace 4 boots you could probably buy one for the price of just that...That time will offset the cost of the other CV.

Plus they'll be new and shiny;)

#3 Fairtax4me

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 09:50 AM

And they'll be aftermarket crap.

It's 100 times easier to replace boots with the axles off the car, and only takes a few extra minutes to get them out. I don't understand leaving them in the car unless it is physically impossible to remove them (rusted/seized to the hub).

#4 987687

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 10:36 AM

Yea, if they're oem axles, rebuild them. I've had so many issues with the aftermarket ones.
I argee with Fairtax4me, don't do it on car. You already have to take the the control arm bolt out to get the DOJ end off the transmission, take one more nut off (axle nut), and just pull the axle out.
GL axles literally take 2 fasteners to change out. You'll have a really hard time getting the CV end cleaned out in car, anyway.

You don't even have to take the wheel off to change the axle. I put the parking brake on to hold the disc/hub from going anywhere. And then just pull the axle with the wheel attached.

#5 Gloyale

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 11:35 AM

Yea, if they're oem axles, rebuild them. I've had so many issues with the aftermarket ones.
I argee with Fairtax4me, don't do it on car. You already have to take the the control arm bolt out to get the DOJ end off the transmission, take one more nut off (axle nut), and just pull the axle out.
GL axles literally take 2 fasteners to change out. You'll have a really hard time getting the CV end cleaned out in car, anyway.

.


It takes a few more bolts than that. Sway bar links?

And pulling the axle back through is a pain, often requiring removal of the brake caliper, disc/hub, and outer seal to get an edge to pry the axle end through. Especially hard with new axle/ new bearing. This also exposes the bearings......and occasionally, the inner bearing will come out of the knuckle, stuck to the alxe.


So there are definately benifits to not fully remoiving the axle. especially if you aren't planning on messing with wheel bearings.

It is definately possible to reboot the axles with them installed on the car. A couple cans of carb cleaner (not brake cleaner, it will swell the bearing seals, and the rubber boot on the caliper, etc...)

With all that said, I would recoommend doing the wheel bearings too, and going for the full removal. If not planning on doing bearings.......your plan of rebooting on the car will work fine.

#6 987687

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 11:55 AM

I've never had that much of a problem with them. Also, I forgot about sway bar, as my car doesn't have one.

#7 scoobiedubie

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 06:36 PM

The reason why the boots all went at the same time was because a certified Subaru mechanic intentionally smeared brake fluid on them, in order to bring the car back in, in 30 days. Probably trying to put his kids through Harvard.

#8 86 Wonder Wedge

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 12:05 AM

Like above, it's best to remove the axles off the car. Once you get them off, my favorite cleaner/axle grease remover is kerosene. Works like a charm and can be neutralized/cleaned by brake cleaner.

Go with Beck/Arnley boots (if OEM aren't an option) and you can get them at Advance. They list the 2/4WD and inner/outer ones specifically so the boots look and act like the originals, not the crappy universal Dorman ones. And the B/A stuff comes with new grease and band clamps.

Also, you can pop the LBJ from the LCA and "pull" the spindle away enough so you can push the axle out from the hub and remove from the car w/o having to remove the entire spindle..

#9 rxleone

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 08:54 PM

Here in NZ up until recently buying CVs and DOJs and replacing them while keeping the original axle was pretty much the only affordable way to change them. It's pretty easy to do once you've done one or two. Just don't make the mistake I did when I had my first EA82 and try to bash the axle out of the spindle without putting a block of wood between the hammer and the axle. Chasing threads is not a lot of fun :-p

#10 987687

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 08:56 PM

Here in NZ up until recently buying CVs and DOJs and replacing them while keeping the original axle was pretty much the only affordable way to change them. It's pretty easy to do once you've done one or two. Just don't make the mistake I did when I had my first EA82 and try to bash the axle out of the spindle without putting a block of wood between the hammer and the axle. Chasing threads is not a lot of fun :-p


I did that once, too.... ONCE. I usually put a punch in the middle of the axle. There's a hole drilled there anyway.

#11 rxleone

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 09:00 PM

I did that once, too.... ONCE. I usually put a punch in the middle of the axle. There's a hole drilled there anyway.

Once is more then enough! That's what I do these days too, either that or put the hub nut on backwards and use the block of wood method. Can be pretty tough if they're rusted to the hub though.




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