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EA82 Rebuild list


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40 replies to this topic

#1 cumminsea82

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 08:18 PM

Alright! This is my first engine rebuild if I ask something stupid, Now you know why! So I need you guys to help and check and see if I'm missing/needing any part on my list. Or little things I don't know about.

I'm in need of rebuilding my EA82 because it has LOW compression. (30-50psi on all cylinders) Billows out white smoke like crazy on cold mornings. and it's slowly losing coolant.

I get 32city/50high-way MPG out of it. thats why I'm rebuilding it for all you EA82 haters. :brow:

I still have to do a wet compression test to check the rings. If the rings are bad. I want to hone the walls. But would you suggest getting rings and pistons? or just rings? I'll also get main bearings, piston pin bushings and rod bearings.

I've been reading about gasket brands and what-not. And decided to go with OEM Subaru gaskets/seals. Getting a kit from dealership for $282 includes everything except metal parts.

I'm gonna get the bypass valve springs.

Lifters from Mizpah. Got the TOD :dead:

new thermostat, water pump and do a radiator flush.

I have already done the oil pump seals. Still no oil pressure at idle. a little under 10psi per 1000RPMs

anything else you guys can think of?

Thank you in advance!!!

It's in a 1993 Loyale M/T SPFI with 243,000 on it.

Edited by cumminsea82, 14 November 2012 - 09:20 PM.


#2 Crazyeights

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 08:34 PM

I just finished an SPFI EA82 rebuild. I went with an ITM piston, pin, and ring kit from Thompson engine on Ebay. I used a Felpro gasket set, new water pump, and a complete timing belt and component kit. I replaced the oil pump with a good used one I already had. As far as head work I just lapped in the valves myself, installed new stem seals and had them both surfaced. I also had the cylinder block decks surfaced as well when it went in for the hone and pressure wash. The crank was polished and standard size bearings were used. I took a fair amount of pictures so if you need something specific let me know. So far it has about a 1000 miles on it and runs like a dream. I would also recommend checking or replacing the radiator, using a NEW FACTORY SUBARU thermostat, and replacing EVERY cooling system hose.

In your case I would recommend pressure testing both of the cylinder heads. I didn't do this because I wasn't loosing coolant prior to the rebuild.

Good Luck :clap:

Edited by Crazyeights, 14 November 2012 - 08:36 PM.


#3 rxleone

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 08:35 PM

Wouldn't bother. Put an EJ22 in it. Would cost the same or less than a rebuild, be the same or less work, and you get better economy, reliability and power out of it.

#4 Crazyeights

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 08:39 PM

Wouldn't bother. Put an EJ22 in it. Would cost the same or less than a rebuild, be the same or less work, and you get better economy, reliability and power out of it.


There is a lot to be said for this option too. It is more work but well worth it. You will never look back!

#5 cumminsea82

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 09:18 PM

Wouldn't bother. Put an EJ22 in it. Would cost the same or less than a rebuild, be the same or less work, and you get better economy, reliability and power out of it.


All it is is my DD to get from point-a to point-b.

Does a EJ22 get 30ish-city and 50-highway MPG???

If it does, how much is it to do a swap???

#6 cumminsea82

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 09:29 PM

I just finished an SPFI EA82 rebuild. I went with an ITM piston, pin, and ring kit from Thompson engine on Ebay. I used a Felpro gasket set, new water pump, and a complete timing belt and component kit. I replaced the oil pump with a good used one I already had. As far as head work I just lapped in the valves myself, installed new stem seals and had them both surfaced. I also had the cylinder block decks surfaced as well when it went in for the hone and pressure wash. The crank was polished and standard size bearings were used. I took a fair amount of pictures so if you need something specific let me know. So far it has about a 1000 miles on it and runs like a dream. I would also recommend checking or replacing the radiator, using a NEW FACTORY SUBARU thermostat, and replacing EVERY cooling system hose.

In your case I would recommend pressure testing both of the cylinder heads. I didn't do this because I wasn't loosing coolant prior to the rebuild.

Good Luck :clap:


so you need a "Lapping tool" for the valves?

Alright I'll rent a leak-down tester and see if I lose any PSI.

I'll probably be PM-ing you once I start!

But I don't think I'll start doing this untill at least 2-3 weeks from now.

Thanks Crazyeights!!

#7 rxleone

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 09:33 PM

All it is is my DD to get from point-a to point-b.

Does a EJ22 get 30ish-city and 50-highway MPG???

If it does, how much is it to do a swap???


What way are you getting your numbers? 50MPG is Prius territory. I don't think I've ever heard of an EA82 getting that.

#8 Prwa101

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 10:34 PM

^^^ I agree with him, Ive never gotten over 35mpg and that was tops..

EJ22 It! so much more power! :headbang:

#9 Crazyeights

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 11:21 PM

I just used a drill motor on slow speed with a small amount of lapping compound on the seat only. Just chuck up the valve on the spring end (with the spring off), and do a few slow speed spins on both directions. It works great. I never did have any luck with the suction cup style.

so you need a "Lapping tool" for the valves?

Alright I'll rent a leak-down tester and see if I lose any PSI.

I'll probably be PM-ing you once I start!

But I don't think I'll start doing this untill at least 2-3 weeks from now.

Thanks Crazyeights!!


Edited by Crazyeights, 14 November 2012 - 11:23 PM.


#10 grossgary

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 02:00 AM

30/50 compression on all cylinders is terrible, that sounds more like timing issues for all of them to be the same like that? if it were rings I would expect more variation?

doing a proper full on rebuild, including the block, is a ton of work and cost adds up quickly. price it out first and see if you like what you see.

Common practice around here for years has been to use Fel Pro permatorque head gaskets, they don't require the retorque procedure that Subaru gaskets or other aftermarkets require. I have a set of those headgaskets if you want to buy them.

XT Factory Service manuals are available on Subaruxt.com to help with a rebuild/spec's/etc. I suggest downloading that. Block and head procedures will be the same as your SPFI EA82.

Parts:
1. Bearings, rings, block parts - i think there's an oring in between the block halves?
2. Headgaskets, valve stem seals, cam carrier gaskets/orings - these are the metal frame type with oring material on them that clip to the heads (EA82's only have one, XT6's have 3 per side), and the cam carrier oil port metal reinforced oring.
3. Valve cover gaskets, grommets, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pump seals/orings (if you're doing it again), cam seals, and cam cap orings, crank seal.

if you're interested in a swap and gas mileage is your concern, do an EJ18 swap, it's exactly the same as an EJ22 swap as the two are interchangeable.

What way are you getting your numbers? 50MPG is Prius territory. I don't think I've ever heard of an EA82 getting that.

that is weird, highest mpg EA82's are FWD Manual MPFI XT's from 88-91. they can get up to 42 mpg in perfect conditions - excellent running condition (nearly impossible to find after a quarter century) using no A/C and all highway miles. most EA82's get 35 at best so 50 sounds off the charts.

maybe someone swapped a justy engine into your Loyale or the speedometer also needs fixed!

Edited by grossgary, 15 November 2012 - 02:07 AM.


#11 cumminsea82

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 03:27 AM

What way are you getting your numbers? 50MPG is Prius territory. I don't think I've ever heard of an EA82 getting that.


By dividing the miles since last fill-up by the gallons of fuel I've filled it up with.

My girlfriend even added it up because we couldn't believe! I went 686 miles on 1 and 1/4 tank of fuel. (48MPG) then went to Cheyenne I'll pull out the receipts if needed and got 53MPG. I fill up with 11-12 gals from empty. :clap:

EJ22 It! so much more power! :headbang:


Thats what my Cummins is for! :burnout:

#12 djellum

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 04:28 AM

next time you pass a mile marker check how far the odometer goes till the next one. ill be your odometer is running fast.

generally this happens with smaller tires, but thats a lot of difference and it doesnt get much smaller than 13's

50 seems off.

#13 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 08:55 AM

I gotta be honest i've never seen even 400 miles to a tank with my loyale (3AT - FWD)

I have gotten around 28mpg which is all things considered is not really that good since the motor is so small...I guess its not having overdrive and not having the best gearing that kills it. Certainly not the boxy styling:clap:

#14 scoobiedubie

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 10:27 AM

The problem could be entirely just cylinder head bolts. Retighten them by removing the camtower cover and the top oil lubricating tube. Takes about 3 to 4 hours for both sides.

#15 Prwa101

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 12:22 PM

I'd pull the heads off and look at them, you may have a crack or blow HGs. Easy fix. You won't know untill you take it apart.

Haha. What's you mileage in you cummins??

#16 cumminsea82

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:41 PM

next time you pass a mile marker check how far the odometer goes till the next one. ill be your odometer is running fast.

generally this happens with smaller tires, but thats a lot of difference and it doesnt get much smaller than 13's

50 seems off.


Alright I'll check!

Google maps says it's 100 miles from Cheyenne, WY to where I filled up in Arvada, CO. and I put 1.915 gallons of fuel in her. (my odometer said 101) But I will defiantly check!


I gotta be honest i've never seen even 400 miles to a tank with my loyale (3AT - FWD)

I have gotten around 28mpg which is all things considered is not really that good since the motor is so small...I guess its not having overdrive and not having the best gearing that kills it. Certainly not the boxy styling:clap:


haha! the booklet on my Loyale says Subaru designed the car to have very little drag . . . . :confused: . . . . yyeaaahh . . .


I'd pull the heads off and look at them, you may have a crack or blow HGs. Easy fix. You won't know untill you take it apart.

Haha. What's you mileage in you cummins??


Do you think at 243k it would need rings if the engine was taken care of?

My 1st gen Cummins has 202,000 on it!

#17 cumminsea82

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:56 PM

Well today I figured out at least some of my coolant leak . . . hose clamps were loose:banghead: so now we'll see how much I lose now.

and the "smoke" (more like a fog) continues to get worse . . . the "smoke" covered the back of my car and the car next to me! It's almost got as much smoke as my Dodge! . . . :horse:

#18 Prwa101

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 08:09 PM

Well today I figured out at least some of my coolant leak . . . hose clamps were loose:banghead: so now we'll see how much I lose now.

and the "smoke" (more like a fog) continues to get worse . . . the "smoke" covered the back of my car and the car next to me! It's almost got as much smoke as my Dodge! . . . :horse:


Sounds to me like you have bad HGs, and mileage wize my fianc├ęs car has 230k on it and blew a hg I replaces it, still running great. 30mpg. :) she had water in her oil, so you must have blown between a water jet and exahst line. Pull the heads off and go from there, you could prolly get another 100k out of it you never know.

#19 scoobiedubie

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 10:32 PM

The white smoke could be cracks in the exhaust port of your cylinder heads. Coolant is being blown into the exhaust lines as the engine runs. The crack apparently cannot be welded, so you need to find another cylinder head at the wreckers, if it is cracked at the exhaust port. Pull the exhaust manifold to check. Then light er up and see if you can see which side the white smoke comes from.

#20 djellum

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 11:45 PM

id check the spark plugs before pulling the exhaust down. if your burning water the plugs will show it (In fact legend has it that fuel mileage goes way up if you get the right amount in it), if they do I would work from that angle instead of dropping the exhaust. if your burning water the the plugs indicate it, shoot for the exhaust crack.

not trying to insult, but make sure your using the PSI side of the gauge. with them all even and it running good it would be best to make sure.

most people just replace the shortblock with a lower mileage one that looks good. bores and the rotating assembly are not ussually problematic in these motors, people generally just do the heads, and replace the shortblock if needed.

#21 cumminsea82

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 04:53 AM

id check the spark plugs before pulling the exhaust down. if your burning water the plugs will show it (In fact legend has it that fuel mileage goes way up if you get the right amount in it), if they do I would work from that angle instead of dropping the exhaust. if your burning water the the plugs indicate it, shoot for the exhaust crack.

not trying to insult, but make sure your using the PSI side of the gauge. with them all even and it running good it would be best to make sure.

most people just replace the shortblock with a lower mileage one that looks good. bores and the rotating assembly are not ussually problematic in these motors, people generally just do the heads, and replace the shortblock if needed.


Yeah I was using the PSI side.

I thought a crack between the intake and exhaust valves was normal on the EA82's?

Well at least I'll have something to do this weekend!! I'll check plugs and see what they look like. Then take exhaust off if there not fouled!

#22 Gloyale

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 12:06 PM

By dividing the miles since last fill-up by the gallons of fuel I've filled it up with.

My girlfriend even added it up because we couldn't believe! I went 686 miles on 1 and 1/4 tank of fuel. (48MPG) then went to Cheyenne I'll pull out the receipts if needed and got 53MPG. I fill up with 11-12 gals from empty. :clap:



I think someone put some gas in between the fill-ups you didn't know about.

There is no possible way you got 52 MPG out of an EA82......not possible.

Espescially one with over 200K miles and 30-50 PSI compression.:D

#23 cumminsea82

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 09:28 PM

I think someone put some gas in between the fill-ups you didn't know about.

There is no possible way you got 52 MPG out of an EA82......not possible.

Espescially one with over 200K miles and 30-50 PSI compression.:D


Maybe one of those mid air re-fuelers gave me a visit?? ;)

#24 -tombba-

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 10:35 AM

By dividing the miles since last fill-up by the gallons of fuel I've filled it up with.

My girlfriend even added it up because we couldn't believe! I went 686 miles on 1 and 1/4 tank of fuel. (48MPG) then went to Cheyenne I'll pull out the receipts if needed and got 53MPG. I fill up with 11-12 gals from empty. :clap:


This brings my mind to my old EA82T engined leone wagon that runned a nice 45mpg readings when my fuel pump was living it's last moments. It was running pretty lean and after I swapped a new pump in the fuel economy dropped to around 35-38mpg (car was FTAWD manual gearbox) on the highway. So the fuel pumpwould be a one spot to check.

#25 ivans imports

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 11:36 AM

turbo or non ? i would add change the middle 3 headbolts for ea81 head studs they fitt and give you a 1/2 more thread in block strech the cam caier oil relef valve springs to bring up oil preshure and probly safe to reuse pistons unless to baldly scratched. And use the subaru gasket set is far better and headgaskets have extra renforcments and comes with lots of good extra stuff piston pin clips valve retairs oil plugs ext and if from subaru at least you know its right and fits




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