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Brat not starting


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10 replies to this topic

#1 CWP8

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 02:55 PM

My brat is having a few problems. I was driving around today and i started to smell burning oil. I don't know if its my antifreeze (water pump is cracked) or actual oil. i just replaced the oil a few months ago, with brand new oil, filter, and I cleaned out the line with kerosine. I sprayed the bottom of the car off with the hose, couldn't find the leak. When I went to go drive for a few minutes to get it to leak again, the car wasn't running right. I got the end of my street, its maybe 400 feet to the end of the street, the car stalls. My choke was all the way open and the engine was warm and it 68 degrees outside. I tried to start the car about 15-20 times and nothing. It would started and then when i would rev it up it would get to 2500rpm and start to struggle, then at 3000rpm it stalled completely. I was on the next street over. I was starting to push it and then i try to start it again and it did.
Its done this once before and i was at the library and it started right back up. It kind like bogs down and dies, really with my foot to keep it just above 2000rpm to drive normally, it usually stays on if i push the clutch in, but this time and the last time it hasn't.
All my vacuum lines are attached or capped appropriately Both fuel filters are new, spark plugs and wires less than 6 months old, just switched to manual choke, new alternator and new battery. I have less than a month to figure it out because I live in Colorado and we're about to get into one of our snowiest months and I can't drive my mom's truck for long. Can anybody help me figure it out? :banghead:

#2 BratRod

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 03:54 PM

Weber or Hitachi?

#3 CWP8

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 05:59 PM

Hitachi. It the original, but rebuilt the carb around may

#4 BratRod

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 08:36 PM

My brat is doing the the same thing... Here's the advice given to me:

Clogged Primary Main passage. Possibly other places too.

First, Remove the drain bolts on the bottom of carb.

Then, looking down the barrels you will see brass jet/emulsion tube. Sometimes you can clean them out with carb cleaner and compressed air without removing the top of carb.

Otherwise, disconnect the return spring, choke link(tiny cotterpin), and accel pump linkage.....then unscrew the top, and fold it back. Take care to move the wiring around carefully out of it's clip, and not tear the wires.

Then the emulsion tubes can be unscrewed, and thoughroughly cleaned out. 4 in total. Blow out the passages while they are out. COVER the accel pump barrel and weight to keep the plunger and ball from blowing out when you hit the emulsion passages.


The carb does'nt need to come out to do this...and it takes care of 95% of the hitachi's driveablitly issues 99% of the time;)


Dang......I really need to do a youtube video of this.



#5 CWP8

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 08:51 PM

ok thank you. i will give it a shot

#6 belacane

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 09:52 PM

let us know how it works out!

#7 CWP8

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 11:59 PM

I will. would it hurt to also send some fuel injector cleaner through it? I know its a carb but could it still clean it like after i do this to it?

#8 Cougar

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 04:49 PM

See if spraying some starter fluid into the intake makes a difference. If it does then the fuel system would be suspect.

Edited by Cougar, 22 November 2012 - 04:52 PM.


#9 jonas

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 04:52 PM

Check the engine for a broken timing belt.

He'll be looking for a long time....:D

#10 Cougar

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 05:11 PM

He'll be looking for a long time....:D


My bad.... Almost as soon as I posted the reply I realized my error and corrected it, but it still wasn't fast enough to go without notice.

#11 CWP8

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 08:16 PM

Anti diesalling valve. It was shorting out on the air cleaner. So hopefully that fixes it. I'll keep all you up to date




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