Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
![]() |
Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created. We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning ** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it! Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998! |
ej.swap.radiator woes.
#1
Posted 24 November 2012 - 07:54 PM
Suggestions?
I should have let the old bugger alone.
#2
Posted 24 November 2012 - 10:06 PM
#3
Posted 24 November 2012 - 10:21 PM
#4
Posted 25 November 2012 - 03:25 PM
http://www.amazon.co...l/dp/B001A4EAV0
It allows you to create a reservoir of coolant above the filler neck and then massage the air out by pumping the hoses. Works quite well for Subaru's in general.
Also make sure you have an OEM thermostat with a proper jiggle pin in it. Otherwise air will be trapped till the thermostat opens and since EJ's use cold-side control that never happens as the engine heat rises and the thermostat stays cold even when the engine is overheating.
GD
#5
Posted 25 November 2012 - 04:53 PM
Otherwise air will be trapped till the thermostat opens and since EJ's use cold-side control that never happens as the engine heat rises and the thermostat stays cold even when the engine is overheating.
GD
This is my thought. If there's fluid in the radiator, but it's not circulating through the engine/heater core at all, it sounds like the tstat and pump are still in air, which means it isn't getting from the rad to the engine.
Also, a clean gear oil bottle with the bottom cut out works great for bleeding out air in the same way.
#6
Posted 25 November 2012 - 05:45 PM
#7
Posted 25 November 2012 - 06:47 PM
This is my thought. If there's fluid in the radiator, but it's not circulating through the engine/heater core at all, it sounds like the tstat and pump are still in air, which means it isn't getting from the rad to the engine.
Right - with no jiggle pin there's no way for the coolant to flow from the radiator into the engine except through the upper radiator hose. The thermostat effectively caps off the lower hose which turns the radiator into a dead-end. At that point the only way it's going to get into the engine is by flowing down the upper radiator hose and that's at the opposite end of the radiator as the filler neck on the EA81's. Very slow process for air to get back through the radiator and out the filler neck and for coolant to run back in and take it's place.
GD
#8
Posted 25 November 2012 - 07:58 PM
Have never had an issue with overheating after a coolant change using that method.
#9
Posted 25 November 2012 - 08:06 PM
Replaced thermostat, same situation. Took off upper hose and dry as bone. So decided to fill from upper hose......worked perfectly.
Never had to do that before.
Thanks for the tips.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users










