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#201 monstaru

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 12:50 PM

SO, are you saying I could run a non turbo engine with a turbo ECM?

I have thought about that before. Obviously you would have to tune it to get rid of the turbo stuff , I just didna know that was possible.

 

well, I found an early harness in the garage, It is an attempt at whiddling down from years back.

HOw can I figure out if it is done right? lol

 

I guess I mean, I would hate to send it down there, then have it be wrong. Is there anyway to tell if I have the right stuff,plugs?

Can I just take detailed pics ?

cheers



#202 ezapar

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 01:05 PM

I would carb it if I didna already know that
I want reliability.... :)

 

The ea81 is about the most reliable engine ever.  lol  But the idea of fuel injection is the shiz.  Ask Ken about how tough it is to follow me up long steep inclines at slow speeds cuz his carb always gets to choking on itself.  

 

The pic attached is him doing the 3 feet thing with brake gas and clutch all at the same time to keep it running.  Lame.   :D

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#203 monstaru

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 01:15 PM

The ea81 is about the most reliable engine ever.  lol  But the idea of fuel injection is the shiz.  Ask Ken about how tough it is to follow me up long steep inclines at slow speeds cuz his carb always gets to choking on itself.  

 

The pic attached is him doing the 3 feet thing with brake gas and clutch all at the same time to keep it running.  Lame.   :D

He said EJ18...

I carbed an EJ22 for my Brat a few years ago now.

And I am not going back to a carb just because it is cool. MAybe for some flatland driving, or The Show. But I love fuel injection now.

I used to be able to tune a Weber pretty awesome. I even rebuilt a plethora of EA carbs. Carbs have their place for raw POWPOW, but I am in need of the fuel injection. lol

cheers


Edited by monstaru, 03 November 2013 - 01:16 PM.


#204 mellow65

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 01:40 PM

Yeah you totally run a NA motor on a stand alone but not unless you were running something crazy like some high compression motor running 9000rpm it's kind of pointless in my opinion.

Snap some pics of the harness, mainly like the plugs, and for sure the ones at the ecu. We can figure out what you have.

Remember you're going to need the matching intake to go with it.

#205 monstaru

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 10:17 PM

right, right.right..........

I may have to visit the junkyard for that.

It would be cool if I could just get an entire donor vehicle. But I only have stuff to trade right now.And probly not enough for that kind of spoob! lol

 

cheers\



#206 mellow65

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:27 PM

just keep your eye open in the parts section of CL for someone parting out a lego and see if you can buy the whole thing.  I have picked up a few dead motor, dead tranny, crunched in the rump roast, cars for $50 - 200.  I even got one that just didn't run after someone broke into it and stole the radio, come to find out they pulled all the fuses too.  put fuses in and it fired right up, almost felt bad stripping that one, but it was the heart of the mazda now, so you know, it lives on.  

 

also don't fret about grabbing an auto also, it's all the same wiring.  



#207 Mugs

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 12:08 AM

I got a 91 lego ECU I'll give you if that helps at all. It works too, cuz I used it to test what I thought was a bad ECU in a customers car.



#208 VaporTrail

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 11:44 AM

The ea81 is about the most reliable engine ever.  lol  But the idea of fuel injection is the shiz.  Ask Ken about how tough it is to follow me up long steep inclines at slow speeds cuz his carb always gets to choking on itself.  

 

The pic attached is him doing the 3 feet thing with brake gas and clutch all at the same time to keep it running.  Lame.   :D

 

precisely why I still keep my uninstalled SPFI setup around.  I still want to install, but after going solid axle and coil/link suspension, the weber with the float tweaked for offroad, runs much better because I'm not lifting wheels off the ground and tipping as far anymore. :)



#209 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 01:03 PM

If you need another Lego ECU I've got one laying around as well, as well as a few miscellaneous bits from my old parts car. And don't forget that I live near P&S ;)

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#210 monstaru

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 10:19 PM

I don't just need an ECM.I need the whole shebang, I have some lines in the water.
its all good

#211 monstaru

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 09:36 PM

ALRIGHT!

So, with the help of Eulogious , I went through a wiring harness I had laying around. It is already trimmed down. It appears that with the addition  of some grounds, and an in fender relay/fuse box that I can run it.

I am gonna work on that this week.

I have to pick up a fuse box and some switches.....

cheers



#212 mellow65

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 10:58 PM

Hmmmm reading that makes me a little concerned. First you don't need the fender fuse box and relays, there are only two relays needed for a swap, the fuel pump and main relay, they live side by side in the car and for fuses you can do a couple inline fuses to make everything happy. Second, short of a ground for the main relay, there should be no ground wires needed. The harness is all grounded at the engine block.

Is this a lego one or an impreza? I'm just speaking from the experiance with the legos, and can't comment on the impreza stuff at all. So if thats what you have, press on.

#213 monstaru

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 11:28 PM

91 LEgo...

I only ASSUMED I needed the fender well thingy Because  of the huge white wires I need for the Alternator. So I'll just fuse that , and the main power wire.

I need to identify the fuel relay and main relay.

 

The grounds  are more of a security thing with me, and water.LOL

 

And as far as the inline fuses, and relays.COOL. :)

 

There is not much info around for running stand alone info out there it seems. It may be right in front of my face but I don't see it! :)

 

 

cheers


Edited by monstaru, 24 November 2013 - 11:43 PM.


#214 mellow65

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 11:33 PM

All the relays in that thing is for lights and AC stuff. Hell even the relays for the cooling fans are with the normal fuse panel inside the car. And think those big wires are supplying power for the whole car, you are only using a small part now.

#215 monstaru

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 04:06 PM

I just had this long pictured post going.

I just don't know what this is.

 

I know these

igniter

Fuel and Main relays

coolant , knock, etc, and the intake air thingie..

then Alternator, and intake harness plugs

Thos ebig white wires come out off of that last pic...

cheers



#216 mellow65

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 04:34 PM

Top one, that would be the ignition relay, like turn the key, this closes and puts power to the small wire on the starter, not needed if you wire it right.  Also note that you need to put a cranking 12v to the ECU, it will come off of this, or I can help you with the pin.  

 

#2  Ignitor plug

 

#3  brown main power relay, green plug fuel pump

 

#4  crank sensor, cam sensor, knock sensor, O2 sensor, air flow sensor (make sure you get the aluminum tube for this because early ones like this were a 5 speed)  Also make sure you have the flow sensor that matches your ECU, you will get a code saying wrong air flow sensor if you mess them up.

 

#5 Alternator junk, you can take the two white wires straight to the battery.  Also do yourself a favor and step up to the impreza/late 90s outback alts.  You ditch one wire from the plug and more or less make a one wire alt, not unless you want a dummy light.  And those two big plugs go to your intake harness and carry everything other then the pre mentioned plugs.

 

 

I just had this long pictured post going.

I just don't know what this is.

IMG_6110_zps993701d0.jpg

 

I know these

igniter

IMG_6109_zps71663d35.jpg

Fuel and Main relays

IMG_6108_zps8807b72e.jpg

coolant , knock, etc, and the intake air thingie..

IMG_6107_zpse3248948.jpg

then Alternator, and intake harness plugs

IMG_6106_zps8683de8d.jpg

Thos ebig white wires come out off of that last pic...

cheers

 



#217 monstaru

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 08:01 PM

Fortunately, the ONLY Alt. I have is newer. lol

Did you put fans on a completely different circuit? or run them on their own circuit switched? I am thinking about running them independent.

I am also thinking about putting a fuel pump switch .

whatcha think Mattie?

cheeers



#218 mellow65

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 08:20 PM

I can give you the pin out for the fan control if you would like.  that way you allow the computer to control the fan like it would in a normal car. Basically the computer controls the ground side of a relay.  In my car I'm running the whole lego harness, chassis and engine so its all stock in mine.  But you could simply add another small system for the fan, some wire, a relay and a fuse.  Don't do a fuel pump switch, look at it this way, if something bad happens and you roll and you sever a fuel line and kill the engine, the ECU will kill the fuel pump, your switch wont.  



#219 monstaru

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 11:03 PM

Eulogious was thinking of wiring the fans in stock, and having an interrupt switch.

So we will find that when we get there.

 

I will skip the Fuel switch. That sounds scary. lol

I may want to just do basic gauges.

oil pressure-mechanical

voltage-

water temp-



#220 mellow65

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 11:34 PM

http://m.powerblockt...sodes/XT2013-13

Sorry if this is the mobile site, I do all this from my phone.

Go to 3 mins in. Do that kind of set up with the 3 way switch, but rather where it says to run to a temp sensor that will be the one you run to the ecu.

The fuel pump thing was something I always took away from the rally rules. Basically you shouldn't have the fuel pump running other than when the engine is running. The thought is if you ball it up into a tree and break the car in half the last thing you want is the fuel pump constantly pumping gas out. Subaru ECUs do a great job taking care of all of that for you, no need to reinvent the wheel

#221 monstaru

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 11:47 AM

That's how I figured on doing the fans!!!cool. Thanks for the link. Always good to drool early in the morning over badass buggies!

I will be looking at gauges , and a multiswitch panel for ignition on, start button, fuse block, and toggles all in one.
The 12voltguy has awesome stuff.So I will probably go to that.
cheers

#222 mellow65

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 12:44 PM

well good luck, if you need some wiring insight, you know who you can email.  :)



#223 monstaru

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 08:28 PM

I got everything labeled.

Except one wire.

Yellow/red coming from the main relay. It is off of a triple split, the other two go to the intake harness, And the Air thingie. I think it was meant for the cruise control from studying the FSM.

 

I think I am going to mount everything in a box of some sort. I have several to choose from. Most of which can be made waterproof.

Welp, i'm off to find a Toyota fuel wiring harness schematic.

cheers



#224 mellow65

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 09:59 PM

I'll have to look at my notes, but the yellow or yellow with red is one that you put power to. The other is what the relay turns on to distribute power to the harness.

#225 monstaru

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Posted 28 November 2013 - 08:05 PM

In true me fashion I found something pretty awesome to use as a start on/off switch.....

It came from a 12V Jump pack , so it is already wired for 12V application.

 I am on the hunt now for a waterproof fuse block, and  about a 6 gang switch setup.

I also have a mini inverter that came on the back of it that I may wire in  eventually.

 

cheers






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