Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Noisy engine under load


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 vic/se

vic/se

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 202 posts
  • montreal, qc- canada

Posted 13 December 2012 - 12:41 PM

It sounds like a diesel under load only

#2 Suzam

Suzam

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,199 posts
  • Wilmington, Delaware

Posted 13 December 2012 - 01:19 PM

Can you provide specifics?


Year, model, engine, etc.

How long has it been doing this?

What type of fuel?

Same source for fuel if more than one tank?

Any other types of repairs or maintenance done recently?

#3 vic/se

vic/se

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 202 posts
  • montreal, qc- canada

Posted 13 December 2012 - 01:45 PM

Can you provide specifics?


Year, model, engine, etc.

How long has it been doing this?

What type of fuel?

Same source for fuel if more than one tank?

Any other types of repairs or maintenance done recently?


Outback 03 2.5l 5sp
I replaced ignition wires and plugs last week, and I get this rattling noise since 3 days

#4 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 9,082 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 13 December 2012 - 11:55 PM

Drain oil and check for glitter.
How long does the oil pressure light stay on after starting?

#5 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,084 posts
  • WV

Posted 14 December 2012 - 01:04 PM

Did it do this before the plug change?
If not then check for a loose spark plug. (though i'd expect a performance loss you didn't mention)

It runs fine?
How many miles?
Is the sound a knocking metallic, dull, thumping, or?

1. timing tensioners can fail and have a lot of slop and flop under load and sound like engine knock. that is behind the upper drivers side of timing belt covers. remove the cover and you can see it physically move under load (like pulling the throttle by hand).
2. internal engine issues - like he said, check oil
3. remove accessory belts and crank engine for two minutes to rule out all pulleys, bearings, etc.

#6 mikaleda

mikaleda

    legacy specialtist

  • Members
  • 1,558 posts
  • priest lake, Idaho

Posted 15 December 2012 - 01:30 AM

Check and make sure it is not the heat shields on the exaust rattling my legacy rattles under load. First time I heard it I thought something came loose crawled under it and it was just the heat shield over the cat converter.

#7 vic/se

vic/se

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 202 posts
  • montreal, qc- canada

Posted 15 December 2012 - 03:30 AM

Did it do this before the plug change?
If not then check for a loose spark plug. (though i'd expect a performance loss you didn't mention)

It runs fine?
How many miles?
Is the sound a knocking metallic, dull, thumping, or?

1. timing tensioners can fail and have a lot of slop and flop under load and sound like engine knock. that is behind the upper drivers side of timing belt covers. remove the cover and you can see it physically move under load (like pulling the throttle by hand).
2. internal engine issues - like he said, check oil
3. remove accessory belts and crank engine for two minutes to rule out all pulleys, bearings, etc.


I recheck the spark plugs and they all have a brownish color ....I do feel a very slight power loss.
If I rev up engine up to 3000 or 4000 rpm it just sounds fine or when I release the gas on gear it sounds ok or on idle it's also ok.
I will check timing belt like you say oil looks fine but I will change it soon

#8 vic/se

vic/se

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 202 posts
  • montreal, qc- canada

Posted 15 December 2012 - 03:35 AM

Check and make sure it is not the heat shields on the exaust rattling my legacy rattles under load. First time I heard it I thought something came loose crawled under it and it was just the heat shield over the cat converter.


I had that problem too, but it was doing it too when you're coasting, and it does'not do it now that's why I rule out the shields and I have very few left

#9 vic/se

vic/se

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 202 posts
  • montreal, qc- canada

Posted 15 December 2012 - 03:37 AM

Drain oil and check for glitter.
How long does the oil pressure light stay on after starting?



Oil light goes off right after starting. I will drain the oil and have new 5/30 on it

#10 vic/se

vic/se

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 202 posts
  • montreal, qc- canada

Posted 15 December 2012 - 03:43 AM

Did it do this before the plug change?
If not then check for a loose spark plug. (though i'd expect a performance loss you didn't mention)

It runs fine?
How many miles?
Is the sound a knocking metallic, dull, thumping, or?

1. timing tensioners can fail and have a lot of slop and flop under load and sound like engine knock. that is behind the upper drivers side of timing belt covers. remove the cover and you can see it physically move under load (like pulling the throttle by hand).
2. internal engine issues - like he said, check oil
3. remove accessory belts and crank engine for two minutes to rule out all pulleys, bearings, etc.



Before the plug change it was fine, even with 110 000 miles it runs fine with lots of power.
and it run fine for 3 days after changing the plugs and I replace the ignition wires with NGK's




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users