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h4 h1 conversions
Posted 19 December 2012 - 03:13 AM
Posted 19 December 2012 - 04:07 AM
Also, from what Ive heard in doing HIDs... 35W and 55W isnt much different... but 55W *could* fry your wiring...
Hence why I stuck with 35W... much cheaper as well.
Posted 19 December 2012 - 11:44 AM
Posted 19 December 2012 - 11:56 AM
If I remember correctly the Autopal housing has a ground wire coming off of the H1 mount base on the housing, I don't think the housings are conductive.
I have a set for my wagon as well but I am going with a 135W H1 for the high beam. it will be independently switched from the headlight Hi/Lo switch.
Posted 19 December 2012 - 03:46 PM
Posted 19 December 2012 - 08:19 PM
Just picked up a set of autopal e code headlights. I know there are ancient threads on this conversion but I cant seem to find any with details for wiring arrangements. Im going with 55w bulbs for the low h4 and again 55w for the high h1. I read that only the pinout needs to be changed for the h4 and I picked up a 2 to 1 prong adapter for the h1. Also, the housings for these headlights are conductive, (grounding issues?) Relays? Anybody have any diagrams or details?
Sounds like you have the Quad-4 headlight setup. The lights are supplied constant power to the single terminal that is usually grounded on every other brand of car, and ground is supplied through the hi/low switch to each terminal to turn the respective high and low beams on. I don't think the H1 bulb will work since the conductive housings will cause it to be on at all times.
The previous owner of my Brat swapped in H4's without repinning the connectors. Took me a while to figure out what the problem was. You can read about it in my thread: http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=128890. Basically I re-pinned the main lights using a diagram I googled and all was well. I still have sealed beams for the two inner high beam lights. I'll probably swap them for H4s at some point and just re-pin the connectors to run the high beam filament only.
Posted 19 December 2012 - 10:38 PM
Posted 20 December 2012 - 12:13 AM
I think you have answered all of my questions. Thanks for pointing me to that thread. Both of my h4 and h1 housings are made out of metal so they are basically useless unless i can dip them in rubber or spray them with something. Any Ideas? Can I bypass the stock wiring via relay and eliminate the grounding issue?
Yes you can. It will probably result in brighter headlights too since the power won't have to run through the ignition switch.
There's a writeup somewhere, maybe in the repair manual section.
The way I would do it is run your own ground straight to the headlights, then run a FUSED power wire from the battery (or starter post, or alternator post) to two relays, one for high, one for low beam. Run the power output of the relays to the respective headlights. Also run a power wire from the headlight switch power output to each relays' signal circuit. Then just run the ground wires that used to turn the headlights on to the other side of the relay signal circuit.
You'll have to verify the wiring for the headlight switch, I think it might go to headlight relays already, but you'll want to bypass these in favor of your new relays which route power directly from the battery.
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