Razorthirty Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Same old story. the problem is im fixing it in my unheated garage in MT on a very tight budget. So please keep that in mind when commenting. It has 276k miles on it but runs fantastic still, i can drive for up to ten minutes before coolant starts gushing out of the overflow tank and the gauge shoots up. i can let it idle for quite some time and it wont overheat, just once i start driving. What things shoudl i check in what order here? i have checked compression and 3 cylinders were at 140psi, cyl#3 would crank over up to 100psi then my gauge would go right down like there was a bad air leak or something.. it sounds like its running on 3 cylinders at idle but if i rev it up it gets smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Try a new thermostat first, and make sure to fill the system with coolant properly. Compression numbers are all low, which makes me think the test is being done wrong. Not sure what you're looking for with the compression test. Bad head gaskets hardly affect compression. Misfires are usually spark plugs or wires or some kind of fuel problem. Compression should be checked with all spark plugs removed and throttle wide open while cranking. Unplug the coil or the igniter to prevent spark, and unplug the fuel injectors so they can't spray. When refilling with coolant, remove the upper hose from the radiator and fill the engine with coolant before filling the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 Compression check was done with plugs in and throttle closed.. will change coolant and t-stat and get back. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I would predict that the water pump is beginning to seize or the impeller has disintegrated or corroded or is not very efficient. If you smell burning rubber this is the case. More often than not, a timing belt failure on an ej22e is due to a water pump seizure. If the compression checks out and you dont have bubbles in the coolant, i would explore this possibility. a factory original water pump can hold out past 200,000 mi but the ones that i have seen fail have failed around the 225 mark. I can account for 2 ej22's that failed the timing belt die to a failed water pump. the first one was good to go with used parts when the belt finally let go, and the other one needed head gaskets from being operated this way until the belt melted and de-laminated. you should remove the belt covers and see if there are traces of rubber on the water pump pulley while servicing the t-stat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 or a clogged radiator. may be enough flow to cool at idle but not under any load (when driving). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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