19 replies to this topic

[Diablo9420]

I have a 95 impreza l fwd rust bucket that decided that the trailing arms wernt important so the cross member rotted out and they separated, and its so rusty idk if i can fix it, but i found a 98 impreza wagon awd that needs a motor (motor is not in the car), it had a ej22 and i have a ej18, i know that my motor will bolt right up to the tranny and other mount but will i need to put my wiring harness and ecu in or will they ej22 harness and ecu work with my motor? also will putting my stuff in cause problems when inspecting the car because its obd1 and the new cars an obd2?

[Gloyale]

EJ18 should bolt directly in.

Use the 2.2 intake and wiring.

If you don't have the 2.2 intake....you can use the EJ18 intake and harness....although IDK if it will "plug and play" although I think it should.

You will need the Dual port EJ18 Exhaust header...the 2.2 was single port.

[Diablo9420]

well my local junk yard has plenty of ej22 i can buy and intake if needed, do i need to pull all the sensors out of a ej22 aswell? and will the exhaust manifold fit directly with the exhaust in the 98?

[987687]

Assuming the 98 has a phase1 ej22, it will work. I've seen some 97's with a phase2, and some 98's with a phase1. I can't find rhyme or reason to it, but that plays a major part.

IF it's a phase1, you can put the 2.2 intake on the 1.8 and just bolt it in. You'll have to add a knock sensor to the 1.8, since they don't normally have one. But the bolt hole for it should be there, just clean the crap out and swap the knock sensor over.
I'm fairly certain that in 95 the 1.8 is a dual port header, and that 2.2 will definitely be a single port, so you'll have to swap the header as well.
Other than that, should just work. Unless the 98 is a phase2, then all bets are off.

[CoupedUpSubie]

^^^ Everything there is correct. '95 1.8's are dual port.

[Diablo9420]

how can i tell phase 1 and phase 2 apart? it doesnt have an engine so can i check by the little plaque under the hood?

[987687]

Ugr, buying cars without the engine is opening up a can of worms. You don't know what's missing.
I'm pretty sure ej221 is phase1, and ej222 is phase2. What does the plaque under the hood on that car say?

Also, if it's phase1 it will have the ignitor mounted on the firewall under the pitch stopper, so that's something else that's a giveaway.

Tomorrow I can try to remember to take pics of phase1 and phase2 engine wiring plugs. Because that's a great way to tell.

[Diablo9420]

well the cars like an hr away and i dont know much about it he jus said the motors out, and it was a 2.2l. also i have my entire car to pull parts out of to fix it. im kinda out a car and not alot of money, but for a few hundred more i can get a 95 legacy sedan that needs a transmission sensor, but idk much about them, also the ej25 are notorious for head gaskets and rod bearings, and i know my motor runs fine, jus need to put new valve cover gaskets in when i pull it out because they leak a little

currently waiting for him to message me back with the engine code thing

Edited by Diablo9420, 01 January 2013 - 09:41 PM.

[987687]

If you're on a budget, don't get a 2.5. The 2.2 is better on gas and more reliable. That's for sure.
See if you can get the seller to take a picture of the plaque under the hood, the wiring connectors, and the engine bay. The collective knowledge of the forum should be able to tell you what's up with it.

How much is he asking for it? I wouldn't pay very much for a car that dosen't have an engine. It's barely worth scrap price, and you have to pay to have it towed an hour home.

[Diablo9420]

he wants 500 but im gonna see if i can lower it, and my dads friend owns a towing business so i just have to pay gas to get it from there to here, and im not on a budget really, i jus need a car to drive to work and at the end of the month school aswell, but i have a job and make money so i can always put into a car, i just want something i can drive and fix bits and pieces as i go, so if i drop my motor in i know its good as far as that

im currently driving my moms mini van, but idk for how much longer since she will eventually need it aswell lol

P.S i have a 1.8 not a 2.2, but would deffinatly rebuild a 2.2 or 2.5 and drop it in the car this summer

Edited by Diablo9420, 01 January 2013 - 09:49 PM.

[987687]

Well I wouldn't pay $500 for it. Maybe $400 at the most.
But here's where you have to make the decision. At least around here where subarus are plentiful you can routinely get a 2.2 legacy that needs minor work for under $1000. In running and driving condition. So if you're going to get a car for $400 that needs $400 in parts, you're going to break even with a $700 car that only needs $100 in parts. And in the end well be less work for you.
You're in NY, and it snows everywhere in NY, therefor there are probably a lot of subarus everywhere like in ME.

Just a word from experience about buying cars. If you have the time to wait a bit longer, you'll find a better deal. I recently picked up a 2000 outback for $800 that ran and drove, but needed headgaskets and a clutch.
The important thing with buying cars is to not get attached to a car before you buy it. Otherwise you may overlook a serious issue because you want that car so bad.

Not telling you to avoid that 98, just get all the info on it, pictures of the plaques, etc before making a decision. There is always another deal out there.
And rust... Check all the normal subaru rusty spots, yours rusted out and it's only three years older, make sure that one isn't on the same track.

[CoupedUpSubie]

500 is a bit high unless it is 100% rust free, but your in NY, so I'm guessing its got rust issues.

As far as the engine code ej22e should be phase 1 and ej222 is phase 2.

[Diablo9420]

well hes in p.a and he said the body has rust and he dealt with it properly, and he said he will get a jack and look under the car, there a few subarus for sale below 1000$ around here that 95 leg being one of them, and id prefer the legacy i think they look better, but i have no idea on whats good or bad with the tranny, mayb he says it needs a sensor but it really needs a new tranny lol, i mean i could go look at it its alot closer than the impreza, if any one of you knows a thing about the tranny electrics ill text him and see if know what the actual sensor is and i can post links of both cars if you wanna check them out

[grossgary]

Get the Impreza, your engine easily installs in it. I've done this exact swap.

Bolt your EJ18 exhaust into the new EJ22 impreza. It bolts in place and is identical on the end that attaches to the rest of the EJ22 exhaust - very simple.

Any EJ25 exhaust will also bolt up to your EJ18 engine and into the EJ22 vehicle if you need an alternate exhaust - if yours is too rusty.

Bolt a 95-98 EJ22 intake manifold to your EJ18 and you're done.
The EJ18 manifolds I have seen have different plugs and won't work. I can't stress how simple it is. I've done it before, basically the exact same swap you're considering - it's really easy.

I haven't seen an EJ18 with a knock sensor so install the EJ22 knock sensor right into the EJ18 block. Not only is the hole already in the EJ18 - it's tapped too! Simply bolt it on and you're done.

I would just buy a new knock sensors, they can be had for like $20 on ebay or someone on here was selling them as well - Bheinen is his username.

If you can - grab the cam and crank sensors and oil pressure switch with the EJ22 harness to make sure it's the same - but i'm almost positive that they are. You could do a little research - search part numbers, ask if they're interchangeable, etc - and then you'll know for sure.

EGR options: I think all EJ18's have EGR:

1. if the "new" impreza is also EGR and you don't want a check engine light - then you'll want an EJ22 intake manifold with EGR as well
2. if the "new" impreza is also EGR and you don't care about the check engine light (your state doesn't have emissions like mine doesn't) - then you can use any 95-98 EJ22 intake manifold and block off your EGR port.
3. if the new impreza does not have EGR then you simple block off the EGR port in the head of your EJ18. I just cut a small metal plate and bolted it to the EGR port with sealant. You can also leave the EGR pipe in the head, cut the pipe, crimp it and weld it shut or stuff a ball bearing in it and weld it closed.

A 98 impreza is definitely Phase I - there's no question about it. There are no 1998 or earlier Phase II engines - it might look like one if they swapped an entire ECU and wiring into an earlier vehicle and there's all sorts of ways to use Phase II engines parts in earlier cars without it being "Phase II" electronic. Or if someone rebuilt a car (i've done a few myself and sold some) - then it could have different unmatching VIN plates indicating an incorrect build date - in other words a 99 Impreza hood/doors/front clip are direct interchange parts for 95-98 impreza's but would show a 99 "Phase II" date of manufaturer and VIN. A friend of mine owns an Impreza that has a different date on the title,and two different dates on VIN door and engine bay plates. I still don't know what year it is!!!

Anyway. Sure, check, but it's highly unlikely that this car is some one in 10,000 anecdotal out liar. More likely scenario is that they mis-listed the year and it's a 99 Phase II....than it being a 98 Phase II. Ask the for the VIN and then you can simply do a VIN check yourself online to verify.

[grossgary]

Yes - There is some wisdom in prefering the known engine-is-missing vehicle over the "my transmission doesn't work so surely it's just a cheap sensor fix" diagnosis by the guys dad who has never done more than change oil and air filters on 1970's big block 250's before vehicle....

if you look at the legacy - pass us along the symptoms and we might be able to tell you if it's something common or not.

99 legacy's have an easy to fix delayed engagement issue, buy it if it's that.

early like 91's have a transmission cooler issue and are an easy fix as well if the trans hasn't been abused.

torque bind is common to all Subaru 4WD transmissions. if it's a manual trans no sensor will fix it - center diff has to be replaced. if it's an automatic there are sometimes easy repairs and there are sometimes easy work arounds depending which of the two possible failures are causing it . worst case the rear extension housing has to come off and some stuff replaced.

there is almost always a way to drive a Subaru with torque bind though without damaging anything or repairing it - like converting it to FWD temporarily until you can fix it or installing a switch (only on automatics and depending which part fails) to go between FWD and "locked" 4WD...which is fun anyway!

there's the 3 common transmission issues to compare his symptoms against.

[CoupedUpSubie]

A 98 impreza is definitely Phase I - there's no question about it. There are no 1998 or earlier Phase II engines

I just resealed a 98 phase 1 ej22. Early 98 were all phase 1. ej22's from the later half of 98 have different intake manifolds from what I found, just like the phase 2 engines. These manifolds are like the 2.5 manifolds.

[Diablo9420]

ok well my local scrap yard has a million subarus so i can easily find parts or a whole transmission, they dont look hard to swap, are they? and im pretty sure its auto, but maybe ill check that out tomorrow and see what i can do, and my dads a good talker so the price could drop real quick and hopefully it does lol

[grossgary]

I just resealed a 98 phase 1 ej22.

right on, that's what I said - 98's are Phase I. that's common knowledge and all over every Subaru forum.

I've never seen a Phase II 98, but I'm not surprised if some exist - I've always assumed it wouldn't make sense that on Dec 31 and Jan 1 there's an immediate switch.

I'm very familiar with Phase II's being interchangeable with EJ25's - worked on countless, have 2 Phase II EJ22's I'm currently rebuilding. One bent valves, other wrecked lower end due to oil starvation.

[grossgary]

or a whole transmission,

crap, and i wasted my time on how to use your engine. i'm waiting until folks get the car to write a book. LOL

transmissions are annoying, just working under the car, but they're far simpler than an engine as there is less to remove. far fewer parts - far more aggravation and annoyance. rust and dirt in the eyes, lying on cold floors, stuff falling on you...breaker bar, tools, don't fit....drop the trans and the car is too low to pull it out so you have to jack the car up some more...LOL

[Diablo9420]

well im pretty sure i could use the lift at my dads friends garage lol, and i appreciate the engine write up because that very well maybe a possibility

ik this would be a rather stupid idea on my behalf but if i got the legacy and the tranny was bad could i put my fwd one in till i can get another awd one? and jus disconnect the drive shaft? or should i just wait till i can put a new tranny in? i have till the end of january before im really worried about a fully operational car

Edited by Diablo9420, 02 January 2013 - 08:42 AM.