Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Oil Pan Removal on Brat???


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:08 AM

How in the hill sam do you get all the rear pan bolts off without pulling the engine? Maybe.....no, I am just not seeing how one gets to the bolts at the back of the pan:banghead:

I'm sure it will be clear as day when one of you points this out to this unknowledged idiot here:-p

Any way HELP..

#2 Idasho

Idasho

    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 952 posts
  • North ID

Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:23 AM

Holes in the cross-member and a long philips screw-driver, thats how :-p

#3 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:40 AM

Thanks


I must be partially blind or the holes are full of gunk and oil:eek:

#4 BEECHBM69

BEECHBM69

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 142 posts
  • Virginia Beach

Posted 07 January 2013 - 08:25 AM

Thanks


I must be partially blind or the holes are full of gunk and oil:eek:


I had to take the motor mounts loose and jack the engine a little to get the angle right.

Good luck.

Dan

#5 Jessekrs123

Jessekrs123

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 119 posts
  • Oakville

Posted 07 January 2013 - 11:32 AM

Posted Image

I got mine off and on no problem, but there are two bolts on each side (one circled in the above picture) that you have to approach at an angle.

I'd use RTV or something to seal the new pan on, the factory cork gasket was hardly accurate and took a lot of fiddling to get it to fit right.

#6 presslab

presslab

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 858 posts
  • N. California

Posted 07 January 2013 - 11:36 AM

I love Loctite 518 for lots of stuff, including oil pans.

#7 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 07 January 2013 - 02:18 PM

How badly would it be to drill holes in the support to access those screws? Like say just a little bigger than the diameter of the driver. :brow:

#8 Idasho

Idasho

    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 952 posts
  • North ID

Posted 07 January 2013 - 02:32 PM

look closer.

Unless your brat happens to not have them, the engine cross member should have access holes.

For example:

Posted Image

See those 5 small holes? Thats them.

#9 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,921 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 08 January 2013 - 01:51 AM

1/4" drive wobble socket and long extension with the engine mounts undone and the engine about 1.5" out of the mounts. Did 3 in a day on various Subaru's but that was with a lift. Another shop used inferior silicone and outsourced warranty repairs to my shop. Ultra Grey from Permatex or Red Fuji Bond from Subaru-seems to be a permanent fix. I ditch the cork gaskets on the ea81s for these.

#10 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 08 January 2013 - 01:35 PM

1/4" drive wobble socket and long extension with the engine mounts undone and the engine about 1.5" out of the mounts. Did 3 in a day on various Subaru's but that was with a lift. Another shop used inferior silicone and outsourced warranty repairs to my shop. Ultra Grey from Permatex or Red Fuji Bond from Subaru-seems to be a permanent fix. I ditch the cork gaskets on the ea81s for these.


Good to know that will be what I do if this doesn't hold, got it back on last night, I just need to go back & torque the bolts down to the setting.

I hope I didn't screw myself by not torquing them down last night.
I used the Permatex Copper spray gasket stuff.

#11 Idasho

Idasho

    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 952 posts
  • North ID

Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:16 PM

by far the best Ive used is Toyota Black RTV. It does cost $25 per tube though.

Not even a hint of a weep after 2k miles

Posted Image

#12 Brat78

Brat78

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 121 posts
  • Richmond Hill, GA

Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:46 PM

That is a PITA job with the engine in but it is possible. Hilariously I put my junkyard shelf motor in and then realized I had a really leaky pan. A week earlier the motor was sitting in the bed of the brat. How easy it would have been then.

#13 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 08 January 2013 - 03:01 PM

by far the best Ive used is Toyota Black RTV. It does cost $25 per tube though.

Not even a hint of a weep after 2k miles

Posted Image


Holy COW that is a clean underside of a Subaru:eek::eek:!!!! That looks like it came off of the showroom FLOOR, of course almost anything would be better than what I have been looking at the past 2 nights!:lol::lol:

#14 Idasho

Idasho

    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 952 posts
  • North ID

Posted 08 January 2013 - 03:22 PM

It shoud be clean, that's the result of a zero mile rebuild ;)

I expect it to stay relatively clean, but it is still a Subaru :D


Still, with 2k miles on it now, not even a hint of a leak, anywhere.

#15 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 08 January 2013 - 04:58 PM

It shoud be clean, that's the result of a zero mile rebuild ;)

I expect it to stay relatively clean, but it is still a Subaru :D


Still, with 2k miles on it now, not even a hint of a leak, anywhere.


Reguardless, after 2000K that is wonderfull, IT is like a :Flame: or smokin HOTbabe on the beach:grin:

#16 presslab

presslab

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 858 posts
  • N. California

Posted 08 January 2013 - 05:20 PM

by far the best Ive used is Toyota Black RTV. It does cost $25 per tube though.


I have used RTV on pans before and it seals great... But it bends the poo out of the pan trying to remove it, even with trying to cut all the spots I could get to. Recently I pulled off a pan sealed with 518 and it came off a lot easier.

#17 Idasho

Idasho

    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 952 posts
  • North ID

Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:26 PM

You are doing it all wrong if you are concerned about REMOVING the oil pan when installing it. ;)

#18 Idasho

Idasho

    Lost in the woods....

  • Members
  • 952 posts
  • North ID

Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:28 PM

Reguardless, after 2000K that is wonderfull, IT is like a :Flame: or smokin HOTbabe on the beach:grin:


Thanks.

If youd like to see more check out my thread in members rides

Lots of fun pics of a super clean '84 GL

http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=135361

#19 bendecker

bendecker

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 253 posts
  • Lakeside, CA

Posted 08 January 2013 - 10:16 PM

How bad would it be to drill holes in the support to access those screws? Like say just a little bigger than the diameter of the driver. :brow:


I don't know how bad it would be, but I did it a few years back and have had no problems.

I used a dremel tool. It took longer than I originally thought, but worked. Even with the bigger holes, it was still a beast to get a couple of the bolts back in. No leaks yet!

#20 Dinky26

Dinky26

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 408 posts
  • Wichita KS

Posted 09 January 2013 - 12:03 AM

I don't know how bad it would be, but I did it a few years back and have had no problems.

I used a dremel tool. It took longer than I originally thought, but worked. Even with the bigger holes, it was still a beast to get a couple of the bolts back in. No leaks yet!


I figured out where the holes were that lined up with the pan bolts..duh:clap:

I think one of the PO made said holes just big enough to get a 10mm socket through:headbang:, such a wonderful thing YAHOO!!! All the bolts actually were in pretty decent line too:clap:

Got here all back together though and GTG for now, still need to do the valve covers though.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users