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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Crank seal part # anyone? EA82

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6 replies to this topic

#1 Ofeargall


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Posted 12 January 2013 - 02:03 PM

I just picked up my oil pump rebuild kit and some other seals. I ordered cam seals, cam cap o rings and a crank seal but I don see anything that looks like a crank seal. Anyone know the part number or have a photo of one?

Here's the PN's I got:
806718090 (1)
806958020 (qty 1but there are 2 o rings in the bag)
103089aa010 (2)
8067388040 (2)
X2421aa000 (oil pump kit)

Any help is appreciated.

#2 kerandt


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Posted 12 January 2013 - 03:54 PM

Looked through my junk ... have a Fel-pro gasket box for the crankseal, part #TCS 4550. Says replaces #8067-38070.

Google brings up the seal pick.


If you haven't replaced one before . . . looks like a cam seal but bigger (approx 2 5/16" OD). Find it?

Edited by kerandt, 12 January 2013 - 04:00 PM.
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#3 ShawnW


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Posted 12 January 2013 - 05:35 PM

Part number is correct above 806738070. In stock here but shipping probably kills compared to ordering one seal locally.

#4 Ofeargall


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Posted 12 January 2013 - 10:48 PM

Thanks guys. Looks like I didn't get the crank seal. Not sure why. I'm getting ready to replace the timing belts. There's oil all under the car and I'm assuming that contributed to the timing belt failure.

I've read that the oil pump leaking is the big issue with oil leaks and the TOD.

Quick question though, don't I have to pull the valve covers to replace the cam tower o rings?

#5 scoobiedubie


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Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:02 AM

Quick question though, don't I have to pull the valve covers to replace the cam tower o rings?

The short answer is NO.

The long answer is NOOOO. All you need to do is pull the alternator, pull the timing belt covers, unhook the timing belts, remove the camshaft/belt gears, and remove the camshaft end caps.

#6 skishop69


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Posted 13 January 2013 - 04:40 AM

I believe he's referring to the sea/ o-ring between the cam tower and the head, and yes, you have to pull the cam tower. As they get older, they get rock hard and leak internally which contributes to the TOD problem. It's minor, but still...

#7 idosubaru


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Posted 13 January 2013 - 07:27 AM

Quick question though, don't I have to pull the valve covers to replace the cam tower o rings?

yes but it's worse than that, need to pull the cam tower, all the rocker arms will drop off, clean up mating surfaces, reseal it with tube sealant, etc after the valve covers even. it's a huge job, way bigger than a timing belt/oil pump reseal job.

*but*, and here's where the confusion is, there are two "cam orings" in your parts list that are completely different orings but both related to the cams. "Cam cap orings" (or cam support orings) and "Cam tower orings".

Cam cap orings go behind the cam sprocket/cam seal and are easy to replace and routinely done with a timing belt job:

806958020 (qty 1but there are 2 o rings in the bag)

Cam tower orings are between the head and the cam and require quite a bit of disassembly as mentioned earlier, they should be metal reinforced, if not don't use them:

103089aa010 (2)

I have been able to solve oil supply related (not HLA related) TOD with this simple procedure %100 of the time. I've never had this not work.

1. Reseal the oil pump
2. Replace the oil pump
(sometimes I skip number 1 if i don't want to waste time)

So I would start there and ignore the cam tower orings for the moment.

That being said - it *appears* that Subaru used to install plain old orings on the cam towers. Speculation is that 1987 and earlier EA82's may have plain rubber orings prone to issues and aiding in TOD. Around 1987 or 1988 they may have moved to the reinforced orings which are all I have ever seen - but I've worked almost exclusively on XT's/XT6's and 1988 and up vehicles.

If you have an 88+ EA82 then I would expect the oil pump to take care of it. If you have a pre-88 or one that someone previously installed a regular oring on during prior work...then maybe you have a rubber oring causing issues.

Either way i'd start with timing belt/oil pump.

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