10 replies to this topic

[suprunner]

Hey all,

I finally found a donor vehicle for the swap. I've been looking for over a year with zero luck. The local yards have had slim pickings for anything with an EJ in it. Where I live, anything imported is few and far between. Found a '93 Legacy L Wagon, with 233k miles. Guy hit a deer going 75mph. Radiator and passenger side fender/bumper got trashed. I believe that there might be a blown HG(s), since the spark plugs were all white. Got the coolant system operating, and have driven it around. Even with the Automatic Tranny, it still has some get-up-and-go in it. As I prepare to tear it out, I would like to have some advice on what maintenance I should do to the motor. I'm already planning on:

1. New Gaskets (heads, oil pan, f/r mains, Cams, valve covers, etc..)
2. New Oil Pump
3. New Water Pump
4. Reconditioning Heads
5. New Timing Belt kit
6. New Plugs/wires

Should I open up the block? I have done compression tests, and I'll include the numbers:

Cylinder 1: 165, 162, 165
Cylinder 2: 160, 160, 160
Cylinder 3: 165, 165, 165
Cylinder 4: 165, 165, 165

The FSM lists the range between 156 and 185 psi. Numbers look good, but experienced advice will help. I know any motor at that mileage could be ready to blow. My first impulse is to try and do this as quickly and cheaply as possible. Since I have to get a new clutch, and adapter plate, I was thinking that I could "make up" costs on NOT opening the block. Will I just be wasting time by not completely rebuilding? The local machine shop won't do rebuilds on Subaru motors (will only do the heads), so that makes me apprehensive to attempt it on my own.

Looking forward to any advice!

Thanks,

Greg

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[86 Wonder Wedge]

Actually, those plugs look pretty good! I touch on the lean side, but far from a problem...

And at 233K, bearings are always a risk and considering the lack of availability of a spare motor, I'd have a back-up plan (i.e. save up enough to build/import another one, or find a shop that can bore/deck subaru blocks)

But those bottom ends are pretty stout and given the stock-usage of the car and in a significantly lighter application, you should do just fine.

EDIT: for safety's sake, you can have an oil analysis done on the old oil and cut open the old oil filter an look for any bad signs (or lack there of)

[suprunner]

But those bottom ends are pretty stout and given the stock-usage...

EDIT: for safety's sake, you can have an oil analysis done on the old oil and cut open the old oil filter an look for any bad signs (or lack there of)

What exactly would I be looking for? Also, what about injectors?

Thanks for the help,

Greg

[Cyfun]

If it were me, I would leave the engine completely alone until the swap was done. Those compression numbers look great, and don't let the mileage fool you, if it was well maintained it will probably last another 100k. And since that's a non-interference motor, you can wait til the timing belt goes before changing it. Might wanna ask the previous owner when it was last changed, anyway.

The only things I'd suggest changing are the typical tune-up items, simple things like vacuum lines, fluids, and maybe new plugs and wires if you think you need them. But since it runs fine now, I'd be hesitant to screw with it. But when you do the swap, be sure and get an XT6 clutch cause you'll need the stronger pressure plate. I think Exedy makes one now that's up to the task. Normal aftermarket XT6 clutches apparently aren't as strong as the original, and it used to be that the dealer was the only place to get one, and it's like $300!

[suprunner]

I think Exedy makes one now that's up to the task. Normal aftermarket XT6 clutches apparently aren't as strong as the original, and it used to be that the dealer was the only place to get one, and it's like $300!

Shoot. I didn't know that the Exedy clutch was the ticket. I am awaiting on a Sachs kit to be delivered... I normally drive like a grandmother though... Hopefully it won't be a waste of money...

Thanks for the help!

Greg

[Cyfun]

You did order an XT6 clutch, though? I think Exedy actually does make the Sachs. If you look up the part numbers it should tell ya. Having a normal EA82 clutch is mostly fine for daily driving, but if you're climbing stuff in 4low you'll get slippage if you're putting the power down. Since you're installing a new clutch now, and the XT6 doesn't really cost that more, might as well do the better one, I figure. I believe the part number is 15-009

Edited by Cyfun, 18 January 2013 - 10:21 AM.

[suprunner]

You did order an XT6 clutch, though?.

It is an XT6 clutch kit.. I used a Sachs brand clutch for my Toyota Supra swap. Seems to be holding up alright...

Thanks for the help

[Gloyale]

I run a standard EA82 4wd clutch behind my EJ18 in my wheeler.

My buddy uses the same clutch in his with EJ25.

Don't abuse it (ride it) and it will last just fine.

[El Presidente]

It is an XT6 clutch kit.. I used a Sachs brand clutch for my Toyota Supra swap. Seems to be holding up alright...

Thanks for the help

XT6 pressure plates are no longer available, even from the dealer. They'll list a clutch, but its not an actual XT6 clutch.

What you have will work fine, just make sure you grind the flywheel to XT6 spec., thats where you'll get you're extra clamp pressure. Next time you need a clutch, just ask for a EA82 4wd wagon clutch. Mine is holding up fine and I'm turning 31's

Josh

[Cyfun]

No kidding? I wonder if the guy who did the swap on my car did something wrong, cause even when I had 26" tires and was just climbing a steep hill, the clutch would slip like crazy with my even touching it.

[El Presidente]

No kidding? I wonder if the guy who did the swap on my car did something wrong, cause even when I had 26" tires and was just climbing a steep hill, the clutch would slip like crazy with my even touching it.

After Gloyale spoke up in my thread here, I just don't see the reason to even look for a XT6 clutch....I mean, why run a hard to find, harder to get part, when 4wd clutches work great and they're everywhere.

http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=132719

I've never run an EA82 spec. flywheel behind an EJ, but that's what I'd expect it to do. When you regrind to XT6 spec., your taking over a 1/16" off the pressure plate mounting surface, so there's a bit of difference there. I didn't even use a new clutch when I did mine, however it did get changed out by one of the PO's. I'm guessing it had %50 left. Roasting 31's isn't a problem at all for me, but after destroying both front CV's doing it, I won't do it again...soon:grin:.. It might be worth your while to pull your motor and check things out.

Heres the step heights

EA82 - .890"

ER27 - .815"

Josh