Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

How in the world do you get a rear axle off the diff??


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 TROGDOR!

TROGDOR!

    Pastor of Muppets

  • Members
  • 2,106 posts
  • Morgantown, WV

Posted 11 April 2004 - 02:32 PM

Trying to pull a rear axle among other things today. The outer end of the axle is loose and hanging, and the inner end is still attached to the diff. The pin is out, and I've pounded and pried on it for hours, and it hasn't moved a MILLIMETER. Can someone tell me, HOW DO I GET THIS THING OFF!!??

#2 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 11 April 2004 - 02:59 PM

Rust welded on. IF you do get it off, use some anti-seize on the splines when you put it back.

Heat with an acetelene torch, and then dunk it cold water - that might break it loose.

Dissasemble the joint, and knock the plug out of the bottom of the cup, then you can get to the stub bolt on the diff, and remove the whole stub.... You need the special stub bolt tool tho....

Last resort - cut it off with a die grinder.

GD

#3 Hondasucks

Hondasucks

    Subaru Technician

  • Members
  • 4,760 posts
  • Vancouver, WA

Posted 11 April 2004 - 03:20 PM

1/4 inch drive 6 point deep well 8mm Craftsman sockets work for gettting the bolts out, provided they are not stripped off (DO NOT try a 12 point socket, must be a 6 point and you gotta lightly smack it with a mallet to get it on all the way) but it will work, I have done it.

The special tool is an inverted torx, but you need one that will fit inside teh hole in the shaft, which most that I have seen do not.. Dunno where the tool could be aquired aside from a Subaru dealer. Maybe some deep creep, or other penetrating oil would help???

#4 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,280 posts
  • Portland

Posted 11 April 2004 - 03:24 PM

The snap-on tool works - do a search on the board, it's on here somewhere.

GD

#5 bushbasher

bushbasher

    exhaust fume addict

  • Members
  • 1,707 posts
  • Sooke B.C. Canada

Posted 11 April 2004 - 04:13 PM

use the torch to get it real hot then pound on it as soon as you get the torch off. The heat will cause the outer part to expand more than the inner breaking the rust bond. I had to do this on my outers, and my surrounding seals survived the heat. You just gotta be careful about where you put the heat. I pointed the heat directly where the stub goes in.

#6 tailgatewagon

tailgatewagon

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,058 posts
  • Bozeman, MT

Posted 11 April 2004 - 08:22 PM

had a friend with this problem.

we tried

torch and then beas wax. = nothing

soaking in penitrating oil over night = nothing

took it to a machine shop and had them use a big press on it. = broken $200 pickle fork on press and not a bit of movement.

hope it works out for you

#7 bushbasher

bushbasher

    exhaust fume addict

  • Members
  • 1,707 posts
  • Sooke B.C. Canada

Posted 11 April 2004 - 11:25 PM

my splines were really rusted to sh** and my method worked first try. The trick is to not bothering with wax or anything, just get on it with a hammer right away. before it has time to cool or for the heat to equalize between the two parts.

#8 The Scooby

The Scooby

    EJ Swap Junkie

  • Members
  • 1,752 posts
  • South Seattle

Posted 12 April 2004 - 01:19 AM

yep, heat it up then put soem candle wax on it, the wax will penitrate it and act as a lube to make it come out, ive done this many times with the oxy-acidaline on engine bolts on chevy engines and many other things.

good luck,
Shean

#9 toybuilder

toybuilder

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 458 posts
  • Longmont

Posted 12 April 2004 - 08:48 AM

Look at this old thread for some ideas.

http://www.ultimates...read.php?t=6850

#10 TROGDOR!

TROGDOR!

    Pastor of Muppets

  • Members
  • 2,106 posts
  • Morgantown, WV

Posted 12 April 2004 - 05:14 PM

Since the shaft and inner joint are good, I just decided to get an outer joint and cup from work and put it on there. Since I'm working on a VERY tight time frame this seemed to be the way to go.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users