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EA82–vacuum hose problem or bad fuel filter?
Posted 15 January 2013 - 08:32 PM
I've got it back together but I've a few questions:
What is the likely cause of my stuttering/dying? Dirty fuel filter or maybe a vacuum line got mixed-up when I put everything back together? I'm not sure. I'm guessing it's a dirty fuel filter because it was colder than a witch's mammary gland who' lying face down in the snow today (perfect time to test drive) and I ran out of gas (been cold for a few days and the thing sat with an empty tank). In the shop it ran pretty swell, but it was warm there so Hmmm?
If I did cross a vacuum line (I think I have them right), would it cause stuttering and the such?
Also, I thought my oil pressure would be better than before installing the new gaskets, but it's not. At least not at top RPM... at stop signs it is reading higher than before. I wonder if it was reading high because the 'o' rings between the heads and the cam towers were shriveled up and partially blocking the oil passage? Or maybe I screwed something up? Or maybe a hunk of dirt is partially blocking the oil sending unit's input?
At start up it read well over the 45lb mark on the car's oil pressure gage, but dropped down to below the 45lb mark when I drove it around.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Posted 15 January 2013 - 08:49 PM
More Background info is Needed in order to Properly Help You, info like:
► Is your Subie Fuel Injected or is Carburated?
► Which Kind of Oil (SAE Number) Are you using on it?
Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:15 PM
Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:24 PM
... and I ran out of gas...
It could "Swallowed" Dirt to the Carb, but also...
... If I did cross a vacuum line (I think I have them right), would it cause stuttering and the such? ...
...yes, there are some hoses that originally should go from the carb to the carbon canister, if you cross them, sometimes the engine will run for a while and then it stops...
You can test if that is the culprit, by capping closed temporary all the vacuum ports and see if the engine works.
Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:32 PM
Yeah, the real key words; 15 degrees f today as I was test driving and cold like that for the past ten days the car has been sitting outside with an almost empty gas tank. I'm pretty sure there's a bunch of condensation that snuck in there and is probably causing the problem. I just wanted to see what you nice folks thought.
Sometimes there is a little thing that makes a huge difference and so I thought I'd see what folks more knowledgeable thought.
Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:34 PM
Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:39 PM
Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:42 PM
But your instructions were very helpful and I'll never pay to replace timing belts again
Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:24 PM
I advocate that subarus are a good example to learn how to work on cars with.
Posted 16 January 2013 - 01:37 PM
In reply to Mr Fox; my dad was a mechanic, and as a child I did as much as I could to avoid following in his footsteps. Unfortunately I chose both my early career and early cars to be incompatible; I drove a lot for a job that paid practically nothing, and I was doing it in an '69 vw bus.
So, to make a long story longer, I was forced to be mechanical despite my attempt to avoid it. Funny how the world works.
After my second bus broke down in a – I won't call it miserable because there were some nice folks there who helped me out – but it is the flag stone capital of the world.
Ashfork, AZ was where I was stuck for two weeks trying to locate a running vw engine that I could afford.
That was the last vw straw for me and I swore off the beast unless I were to win millions and was surfing again... but that's not something I waste a lot of time dreaming about.
The Suby engine reminds me a little of those old days, except the repairs seem to last much longer.
Thanks for the help, and for this awesome website!
Posted 19 January 2013 - 06:37 PM
Also splurged on a set of new plug wires and that helped quite a bit too.
The oil pressure problem was mainly the fact the wire from the sender was scraping against the main pulley (oops) but also I realized I used 5/30 wt oil in the engine for the first oil change. It's been so cold I figured that was a wise choice. With that oil I also added half a bottle of Lucas oil conditioner, just in case, and I'll use 10/40 when I change the oil in another couple hundred break-in miles. The oil pressure gauge is no longer a source of my angst.
It runs much better... I even retraced the trip I did when the head gasket blew and no problems. In fact my milage is up around 30 per gallon (from maybe 24 before) and I don't seem to be using any fluids. What am I going to do if I'm not always checking the oil and water?
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