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Rear Toe is in on 92 Loyale 2wd wagon?


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12 replies to this topic

#1 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 10:40 PM

92 Loyale 2wd wagon

Took it to get aligned at a reputable shop and they of course did front end but the rear end (which i've read is adjustable but isn't really kinda sorta:slobber:) has .40 on the driver side and .50 on the pass. (They said it was non-adjustable) of inside toe (front of rear wheels pointing in) Camber is -0.7 and -0.4 respectively...still with me?:drunk:

My question is...could the wrong strut cause the rear end to be too high and create this toe. Seems like they are both pretty close in toe and the rear struts are fairly new but non-adjustable like the OEM ones.

My hunch is the negative camber would explain the higher ride height. Rear end feels stiff as well.


Any input would be greatly appreciated:-p

Edited by 92LoyaleH4, 17 January 2013 - 10:41 PM.
brain fart


#2 Caboobaroo

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 11:24 PM

They were right, it is a major pain in the butt to adjust the back end. Most shops won't to be totally honest and most mechanics don't even know how to adjust the back. I don't align very many EAs but I have also been able to align the back end successfully.

Camber sounds normal but it does have a bit of a toe in issue, especially since the front is toe out some.

Unless it is a huge difference in ride height, the shocks in the rear aren't going to really effect the alignment.

#3 Gloyale

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 12:13 PM

They are adjustable.

Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the swing arm to the trailing arm. Loosen the trailing arm pivot also.

tilting trailing arm "up" relative to the swing arm will result in Pos camber, and vice versa.

Toe is achieved by sliding the swing arm forward or back relative to the trailing arm. Forward = toe in, Backward= toe out.

It's tricky, because any movement to change Camber changes toe slightly too....so it can take some time to get it right.

A few I've done, I've had to open up the 3 holes in the trailing arm to get more adjustment.....ussually on cars with worn pivot bushings on the trailing/swing arms.

I posted a scan of the FSM on here somewhere, years ago.

#4 somick

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 01:26 PM

See if that document can help you:

https://docs.google....UN3REVLVDQ/edit

Sam

#5 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 03:58 PM

Thanks guys...i knew they were adjustable..i also don't want someone attempting to correct it and not know what they're doing...


Feel like i should call them and see if they could do it, but idk.

#6 presslab

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 05:36 PM

Maybe you just have bad bushings pulling it out of alignment. I replaced mine with urethane, see below.

http://www.ultimates...e=3#post1122658

Edited by presslab, 18 January 2013 - 05:39 PM.


#7 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 09:16 PM

Maybe you just have bad bushings pulling it out of alignment. I replaced mine with urethane, see below.

http://www.ultimates...e=3#post1122658



I've been thinking about replacing them. Was it hard to do? I would imagine that'd fix the alignment i mean they are 21 years old after all.

#8 Gloyale

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 09:26 PM

I've been thinking about replacing them. Was it hard to do? I would imagine that'd fix the alignment i mean they are 21 years old after all.


it will definately help....you will still need to set the alignment after.

#9 presslab

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 10:04 PM

I've been thinking about replacing them. Was it hard to do? I would imagine that'd fix the alignment i mean they are 21 years old after all.


You'll need a big C-clamp and a big socket to push the old bushing out. To make the new bushings fit you'll need to grind them down with like a belt sander or angle grinder. If you want to add zerks (don't have to) you'll need a drill and tap of the right size. Other than that it's not hard.

You don't need to loosen the bolts for the alignment to do the bushings, so if the bushings are your problem it should be ok.

#10 Gloyale

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 01:53 PM

You don't need to loosen the bolts for the alignment to do the bushings, so if the bushings are your problem it should be ok.


Maybe not for the swing arm, but the trailing arm for sure.

Personally, I wouldn't attempt it with C-Clamps...not in PA. The car is sure to be rusty.

Remove the arms, take em to a proper press. It will be easier in the long run.

And again....you should try to adjust the alignment, see if it can be brought in spec, before you bother with bushings.

#11 92LoyaleH4

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 02:38 PM

Maybe not for the swing arm, but the trailing arm for sure.

Personally, I wouldn't attempt it with C-Clamps...not in PA. The car is sure to be rusty.

Remove the arms, take em to a proper press. It will be easier in the long run.

And again....you should try to adjust the alignment, see if it can be brought in spec, before you bother with bushings.


Ya i think i will try to just align it...car is from NC...no rust at all!

#12 presslab

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 08:46 PM

Maybe not for the swing arm, but the trailing arm for sure.

Personally, I wouldn't attempt it with C-Clamps...not in PA. The car is sure to be rusty.

Remove the arms, take em to a proper press. It will be easier in the long run.

And again....you should try to adjust the alignment, see if it can be brought in spec, before you bother with bushings.


To be clear, with the bushings I have selected, the outer sleeve of the bushing is left in the arms and only the rubber is pushed out. I could almost push the rubber out by hand, but then again mine were worn out and had become de-bonded from the metal. There are also more elegant tools made specifically for this but they are nearly the same as a socket and C-clamp.

It was really easy to use the C-clamp, there's no way I would remove the arms to do this; your experience must be different than mine. What bushings have you installed in the trailing arms? Can you get the factory bushings? I know in the front you can not. I see SuperPro also makes bushings but they are pricey with a long lead time.

I would certainly check the bushings before doing the alignment. My car has 170k miles, and the bushings were so bad that the arms slipped sideways and it was metal on metal. It would be silly to do the alignment without replacing these bushing (if needed) and then need to redo the alignment again when the bushings fail and are replaced.

#13 Gloyale

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 01:10 PM

It was really easy to use the C-clamp, there's no way I would remove the arms to do this; your experience must be different than mine. What bushings have you installed in the trailing arms? Can you get the factory bushings? I know in the front you can not.


I get replacements through WorldPac. $160 for a set of 4 (list:rolleyes:) Same bushing for all 4. 2 trailing arms (short, outer arm) and 2 Swingarms (long, inner arm with the wheel bearing in it)

I replace all 4 if I do them. I don't know how you'd do them under the car, or even on a lift without mostly unbolting the whole swing arm anyhow. I just take em out and take em to the press. That's just me though.




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