garrettG Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Has anyone ever heard of someone mating a Suzuki, Toyota, Nissan or any other 4x4 transfer case to a newer EJ transmission?? I am toying with the idea of having it done and doing a solid axle in the rear of my 2001 subaru forester! If it is possible I will move forward with the project. I know people have done it with older GL's and justys. But will it mate up and work with the EJ transmission? Will I be able to still run stock CV's up front? Thanks for any help!! Also I currently have a d/r EJ transmission from Japan in my forester. 4.11 final drive, i had 1.59 low gears from a donor EA transmission put in so she can crawl:), king springs, STI aliminum front control arms, STI front axles, and primitive skid plates. -garrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 ... Also I currently have a d/r EJ transmission from Japan in my forester. 4.11 final drive, i had 1.59 low gears from a donor EA transmission put in so she can crawl:), king springs, STI aliminum front control arms, STI front axles, and primitive skid plates. ... Photos Please ... ... We Love Photos Here. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrettG Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=2599 Here's a link to my build over at offroadsubarus ^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I don't think it's been done with a 5-speed. I know Mudrat did it many years ago in his hatch with a 4EAT for their Rubicon run. Have to either weld the center diff, or get one of those RWD conversion sleeves (basically center diff delete). CV axles will depend on what you use for a front diff. But I don't think there is a Subaru rear diff that would work with your STi axles. If you get an EA series rear diff, it has 23-spline male stubs out of the diff, and you could use '93-'94 FWD 5MT Impreza axles without modification (well, they probably wouldn't like the track width of the STi control arms...). Then it's just a matter of all the other fabrication involved in a divorced Tcase rig, which is fairly well documented here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrettG Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 i think im leaning back towards just doing a 2-3inch body lift and 3-4inch suspension lift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 3-4 inches of suspension lift is way too much. Your angles will be too steep. I think you mean, 3-4 inches of body lift (subframe drop). And then if you want some "suspension lift" build you strut top block 1~2 in. taller than your subframe drops blocks. You're not going to clear any bigger than a 235/75/15 tire (28") without different wheels or wheel spacers to get the tire away from the spring perches. You won't really need any lower gearing than the 1.59 reduction you've got. A true 4wd box would help alot more than a huge lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 The best thing you could do is get an automatic for it. The torque converter acts like a low range and you don't have to wear out a clutch. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrettG Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 3-4 inches of suspension lift is way too much. Your angles will be too steep. I think you mean, 3-4 inches of body lift (subframe drop). And then if you want some "suspension lift" build you strut top block 1~2 in. taller than your subframe drops blocks. You're not going to clear any bigger than a 235/75/15 tire (28") without different wheels or wheel spacers to get the tire away from the spring perches. You won't really need any lower gearing than the 1.59 reduction you've got. A true 4wd box would help alot more than a huge lift. Yeah what I said was I am doing a 2-3 inch body lift (blocks) and 3-4inch strut lift (over stock) which will give me close to stock geomerty. Then I am getting strut inserts and building my own strut housings and I am going to use 2.5- 3inch coil springs. This will eliminate the bottom spring perch that hinders tire size. I will be using either a 30 or 29inch BFG all terrain on stock 15inch steelies (I have not gotten these yet) -garrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrettG Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I will probably use the coil over conversion from ground control. And I will purchase my own springs. http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=82/CA=90 I will probably use strut inserts from Feal Suspension. I wil order a set of 4 rear inserts because the rears are taller and have more travel, and the dampening is adjustable to different spring rates http://www.rallyracingsuspension.com/page2.html ...I'm pretty excited about all this haha. I will probably have the body lift part done by the end of march. -garrett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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