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4 on 100mm conversion?
Posted 11 April 2004 - 11:23 PM
I need to convert the front of the EA81 to 4 on 100mm.
Posted 11 April 2004 - 11:27 PM
Posted 12 April 2004 - 01:50 AM
edit - he did a 4x120mm conversion, but the concept may be the same. Im thinking also that it might be that the subaru hub flange tapers inward too soon for 4x100 to work.
Posted 12 April 2004 - 03:16 PM
Posted 13 April 2004 - 01:43 AM
Posted 13 April 2004 - 10:11 PM
....lost the original detailed write up when I
upgraded my e-mail software. Here's the basics I
1. Make all modifications to your Subaru hubs at your
2. I was ultra conservative...had a welder friend
braze the backs of the old studs to the hub/drum.
3. Grind the old studs off flush with the wheel mating
surface of the hub/drum.
4. Buy studs for a '95 Honda Civic, M12x1.5, I
believe. And they have a smaller shoulder for press
fit than the OEM Subaru studs. So they require a
smaller hole in the hub/drum.
5. At a machine shop...A. on a lathe, turn down the
centers/locating bosses to 54mm. The center bore of
OEM Toyota and Mazda wheels (4x100) are 54 mm. Honda
is 56mm so that wheel fits, but you would mount
B. On a mill, precisely locate the holes for the new
studs on a 100 mm circle, offset from the old studs by
90 degrees. Bore the new stud holes to the proper
diameter to allow a press fit.
C. Still on a mill....on the insides of the hubs/drums
use an end mill a little larger in diameter than the
head of the new studs to make a flat for the studs to
shoulder up against. Do not remove any more material
depth than necessary to make the flat spots.
Note: The front hubs are very hard steel.
6. Press the new studs into the hub/drum. We had to
use a hydraulic press to push them into the front hubs
because the steel was too hard for the stud splines to
cut. SO I hope to never have to try to field replace
one of them.
7. As mentioned in a previous post, the rear drum
material is very soft and this is apparent when
installing the new studs. Do not use too much pressure
when installing them. Inspect the material after
installation and use good judgment. There is a lot of
metal thickness where the studs are located.
8. Get a good coat of primer at least on the machined
surfaces, then re-install the hubs/drums as removed.
9. Purchase rims from a local yard or www.tires.com
after researching what width and offset you would
like. I use '95 Protege' 14x5.5 inch. They have a
large positive offset so the tires are completely
under the fender and they were cheap. MAKE SURE THAT
THE RIMS ARE NOT WARPED BEFORE SPENDING A LOT OF TIME
CLEANING AND PAINTING THEM.
10. Get tapered seat lug nuts for the M12x1.5 studs. The
taper should be matched to the OEM rim spec. THE RIMS
AND LUG NUTS MUST BE "LUG-CENTRIC" DESIGN, MEANING
THAT THE WHEEL IS CENTERED BY THE LUG NUTS' TAPER.
This is because the front hub will probably not have
enough metal on the hub to center the wheel with its
11. I run 205/75R14 Cooper Courser SST tires with no lift kit
and minimal scrubbing when locked out in a turn.
www.1010tires.com has a large selection of 14 inch mud
12. When everything is installed test drive with
caution, and after some run time, inspect the
hubs/drums where the new studs are in place for
cracking or other problems.
I am sure that I am forgetting some important details
because it's been a couple years. Please post any
questions. Hope this is helpful.
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