soobme Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 I did a serch and came up empty, I know somone has done it but I need to know who. I need to convert the front of the EA81 to 4 on 100mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 I don't think anyone did the 4X100 but I believe some sone did a 5X5.5 swap. I think the lugs would be close to the mounting bolt pattern of the hub to rotor pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 the guy making the solo II GLF has done it I'm pretty sure. edit - he did a 4x120mm conversion, but the concept may be the same. Im thinking also that it might be that the subaru hub flange tapers inward too soon for 4x100 to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 Here's the link to his post, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14119&highlight=solo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaRube Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 Here you go. Check this one http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6734&highlight=4x140 Look on page 2 for Rallywagons post. He has some info on his 4x100 redrill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobme Posted April 12, 2004 Author Share Posted April 12, 2004 Here you go. Check this one http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6734&highlight=4x140 Look on page 2 for Rallywagons post. He has some info on his 4x100 redrill. THANK U !!!!That was the post I was looking for, (and the guy) hope he can hook me up with some info on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallywagon Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 Get you some info. later tonight probably....remember I am on the East Coast. Later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallywagon Posted April 13, 2004 Share Posted April 13, 2004 Soobme, You've got personal e-mail. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 13, 2004 Share Posted April 13, 2004 Ooo I wanna know too!!! I am planning on doing this to my wagon but I want to know more details about it. Oh and about rear drums, could I do it to my drums? Is it a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallywagon Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 Converting Hubs to 4x100mm... ....lost the original detailed write up when I upgraded my e-mail software. Here's the basics I remember: 1. Make all modifications to your Subaru hubs at your own risk. 2. I was ultra conservative...had a welder friend braze the backs of the old studs to the hub/drum. 3. Grind the old studs off flush with the wheel mating surface of the hub/drum. 4. Buy studs for a '95 Honda Civic, M12x1.5, I believe. And they have a smaller shoulder for press fit than the OEM Subaru studs. So they require a smaller hole in the hub/drum. 5. At a machine shop...A. on a lathe, turn down the centers/locating bosses to 54mm. The center bore of OEM Toyota and Mazda wheels (4x100) are 54 mm. Honda is 56mm so that wheel fits, but you would mount "lug-centric." B. On a mill, precisely locate the holes for the new studs on a 100 mm circle, offset from the old studs by 90 degrees. Bore the new stud holes to the proper diameter to allow a press fit. C. Still on a mill....on the insides of the hubs/drums use an end mill a little larger in diameter than the head of the new studs to make a flat for the studs to shoulder up against. Do not remove any more material depth than necessary to make the flat spots. Note: The front hubs are very hard steel. 6. Press the new studs into the hub/drum. We had to use a hydraulic press to push them into the front hubs because the steel was too hard for the stud splines to cut. SO I hope to never have to try to field replace one of them. 7. As mentioned in a previous post, the rear drum material is very soft and this is apparent when installing the new studs. Do not use too much pressure when installing them. Inspect the material after installation and use good judgment. There is a lot of metal thickness where the studs are located. 8. Get a good coat of primer at least on the machined surfaces, then re-install the hubs/drums as removed. 9. Purchase rims from a local yard or www.tires.com after researching what width and offset you would like. I use '95 Protege' 14x5.5 inch. They have a large positive offset so the tires are completely under the fender and they were cheap. MAKE SURE THAT THE RIMS ARE NOT WARPED BEFORE SPENDING A LOT OF TIME CLEANING AND PAINTING THEM. 10. Get tapered seat lug nuts for the M12x1.5 studs. The taper should be matched to the OEM rim spec. THE RIMS AND LUG NUTS MUST BE "LUG-CENTRIC" DESIGN, MEANING THAT THE WHEEL IS CENTERED BY THE LUG NUTS' TAPER. This is because the front hub will probably not have enough metal on the hub to center the wheel with its bore, "hub-centric." 11. I run 205/75R14 Cooper Courser SST tires with no lift kit and minimal scrubbing when locked out in a turn. www.1010tires.com has a large selection of 14 inch mud tires. 12. When everything is installed test drive with caution, and after some run time, inspect the hubs/drums where the new studs are in place for cracking or other problems. I am sure that I am forgetting some important details because it's been a couple years. Please post any questions. Hope this is helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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