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I've always used the worm screw clamps however my lower radiator hose is now leaking when the system is up to pressure from it cutting into the rubber.. Being this is the 2nd hose has anyone used T-bolt clamps? Funny you fix the heater by-pass hose and now I have another leak from this area.. I was wondering why my coolant level was always dropping.

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The factory wire clamps are absolutely the best for this application. Worm clamps blow but they work if you observe precaution to not over tighten them. If you have to have it tight enough to cut the rubber then the rubber is too old or the nipple is corroded, etc.

 

T-bolt clamps would work but are bulky and can't be used in all places and are quite expensive.

 

If you want a cheap and effective clamp that won't cut into the rubber and is very clean and tight:

 

http://www.clamptitetools.com/

 

Since it uses only bulk stainless wire to make clamps you won't have problems with rust and the round profile of the wire won't cut your rubber.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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The factory wire clamps are absolutely the best for this application. Worm clamps blow but they work if you observe precaution to not over tighten them. If you have to have it tight enough to cut the rubber then the rubber is too old or the nipple is corroded, etc.

 

T-bolt clamps would work but are bulky and can't be used in all places and are quite expensive.

 

If you want a cheap and effective clamp that won't cut into the rubber and is very clean and tight:

 

http://www.clamptitetools.com/

 

Since it uses only bulk stainless wire to make clamps you won't have problems with rust and the round profile of the wire won't cut your rubber.

 

GD

 

I dunno GD, looks like tool requires a lot of room to use compared to any clamp I've seen. But certainly would be inexpensive in the long run.

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I always try to re-use the oem clamps if they are not rusty and come off in one piece. Otherwise for work clamps, i try to find the made-in-usa stainless steel ones as they wont blow out as you try to get that last bit of tightness.

 

I am also a fan of CTB (constant tension band) clamps and try to salvage those as well. If i could find them for radiator hoses, i would use them.

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I always thought the worm clamps were an 'upgrade', until I had one or two strip out on me after having been in place for a period of time. So the genuine clamps yes I agree those are better for the application (than worm drive). Normally in my rusty area I never try to save the clamp; almost always I have to cut the old clamp off or bust the nut on it anyway and then use needle nose pliers to pull off the remains.

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I feel you on the rust. But if the bolt turns and i can get it apart, i will re-use it. Otherwise it is a pier of pliers to twist them off.

 

I have salvaged oem clamps to re-use, but have them rusted out the next time i service the same part.

 

I made sure to keep the oem clamps when restoring my 3-door

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I've always used the worm screw clamps however my lower radiator hose is now leaking when the system is up to pressure from it cutting into the rubber.. Being this is the 2nd hose has anyone used T-bolt clamps? Funny you fix the heater by-pass hose and now I have another leak from this area.. I was wondering why my coolant level was always dropping.

 

It sound like you may be over tightening the worms screw clamps, if you find them cutting into the rubber. I have never had trouble with this style clamp. I have just tightened up the clamp snugly. I could always tighten more, but then the clamp starts cutting into the rubber. No need to tighten that much.

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It sound like you may be over tightening the worms screw clamps, if you find them cutting into the rubber. I have never had trouble with this style clamp. I have just tightened up the clamp snugly. I could always tighten more, but then the clamp starts cutting into the rubber. No need to tighten that much.

 

 

I might put some rubber between the hose and the clamp this time.

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