Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Stuck Rear Axle Cup


  • Please log in to reply
21 replies to this topic

#1 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:08 PM

Posted Image

I've literally been hacking at this thing for like 4 hours with no luck whatsoever. Haven't got the damn thing to move a mm :mad: Been heating it up with my torch and hitting it with a 3lb hammer, pried at the inner part of the cup, and I've tried punching a hole through the middle of the cup to get to the stub bolt, not happening. I've taken those 5 bolts off around the cup and that didn't help either.

I read that pb blaster has helped but heat works better ? Anyone had luck with pb blaster ?

I just wanna put my passenger side rear disc brakes on for cryin out loud !!!

#2 mikaleda

mikaleda

    1000+ member!

  • Members
  • 1,329 posts
  • priest lake, Idaho

Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:10 PM

I would heat up the cup around the stub and then spray it with pb. The heat will thin it out and let it penetrate better

#3 AKghandi

AKghandi

    87 GL-10 2" lift 27" tires, 86 GL 2" lift 29"

  • Members
  • 1,110 posts
  • Anchorage, Alaska

Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:12 PM

I assume you removed the roll pin, so heat and pb blaster/deep creep.

Its no fun to deal with that, I have a feeling I'm going to be in your shoes when i go to switch in my welded diff:rolleyes:

#4 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:16 PM

Alright I'll run back to the store and get some PB lol
And yes roll pin is out, I've been putting my torch through the roll pin holes trying to heat everything up .

#5 mikaleda

mikaleda

    1000+ member!

  • Members
  • 1,329 posts
  • priest lake, Idaho

Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:19 PM

Actually you only want to heat the outside of the doj cup the heat will expand the metal making it easier to get off

#6 l75eya

l75eya

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 1,462 posts
  • Hoboken, NJ

Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:56 PM

Just don't give up. It'll come off, eventually. Gets pretty frustrating. :mad:

#7 suberdave

suberdave

    www.suberdave.com

  • Members
  • 1,001 posts
  • Covington

Posted 29 January 2013 - 08:04 PM

drill a hole in the bottom of the cup, in the inside as if you were going to drill into the stub shaft that comes out of the trans. then use a can of PB with a straw and spray some in the hole so it can get right on the shaft.

-=Suberdave=-

#8 Numbchux

Numbchux

    EJ conversion addict

  • Members
  • 5,991 posts
  • Duluth, MN

Posted 29 January 2013 - 08:23 PM

drill a hole in the bottom of the cup, in the inside as if you were going to drill into the stub shaft that comes out of the trans. then use a can of PB with a straw and spray some in the hole so it can get right on the shaft.

-=Suberdave=-


Yep. there's a little cap in the bottom of the axle cup. And if you have the E10 bit required, you can actually remove the stub with the cup still attached.


Unbolting the outer race for the carrier bearing (5 bolts on the case) will do you nothing. Go ahead and put those back in.

#9 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 29 January 2013 - 08:30 PM

I won't give up lol I need to get this off eventually. And unfortunately, a drill is like the only tool I haven't invested in :banghead: So I can't do that, but hopefully this can of PB blaster I just picked up helps ....

#10 Subruise

Subruise

    Official Party Pooper

  • Members
  • 1,434 posts
  • pierce county

Posted 29 January 2013 - 11:32 PM

i have an E10 bit. i also have a pulley for ya.

#11 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,426 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:09 AM

Take the whole diff out so you can get a better whack at it

#12 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:18 AM

Well I hit the cup so many times that the center cap fell out and I now have full access to the stub bolt. I got the cup to move a tiny bit to the point where I can't fit my pin punch through the roll pin hole, but that's it lol :cool:

Might have to stop by tomorrow rob and grab that bit and see if that'll work

#13 Subruise

Subruise

    Official Party Pooper

  • Members
  • 1,434 posts
  • pierce county

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:30 AM

i work 8-5 but you could also meet me im T town on my lunch break if its urgent. if not ill hit you up when i get off work.

#14 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:35 AM

What times your lunch break ? Might head out there during your break, also what size drive is this e10 for ?

#15 Subruise

Subruise

    Official Party Pooper

  • Members
  • 1,434 posts
  • pierce county

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:41 AM

iirc, i used a 1/4" 6 in 1 tool (nut driver). its just like a phillips bit, only it works for soob stubs. i usually take lunch around noon til one.

#16 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:45 AM

Ahh ok well, I had a bit that fit the one on for the stub bolt but had no luck getting it loose. Ill shoot ya a text tomorrow .

#17 Subruise

Subruise

    Official Party Pooper

  • Members
  • 1,434 posts
  • pierce county

Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:50 AM

the bit needs to have the hole in the center or it wont work. get on that screwdriver handle with a pair of vicegrips or chainwrench or somethin. better yet get a handle withe a nut attachment (sounds weird, you can put a wrench on it)

#18 El Presidente

El Presidente

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 524 posts
  • Northgate/Seattle, WA

Posted 30 January 2013 - 02:57 PM

What size hammer are you using? I've got a harbor frieght 3lb. mini sledge that saved my butt when I last pulled rear axles. I smack a hell out of it for a while while rotating the cup so it didn't bind up. It will come off, just be persistent. When re-assembling I always use copper anti-seize on the stub shafts and spindles to prevent them from seizing again. Makes the pins a breeze to remove too.

Take care with the stub shaft retainer bolt, they're aluminum and your really gonna hate life when you strip it out and they aren't hard to snap either. I say you just find some hatred somewhere and keep hitting it. It'll give.

Josh

#19 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 30 January 2013 - 09:08 PM

I'm using the exact same hammer, I gave up last night. Sprayed some pb in there and left it over night. Went back at it like an hour ago, heated it up. Smacked it, rotated it , smacked it, rotated, repeat. Came off in like 5-10 whacks lol FINALLY !! I broke that damn aluminum 5 lot housing that goes around the stub though :mad:

Subruise is gonna hook me up with one though
:headbang:

#20 monstaru

monstaru

    wow, relevance....

  • Members
  • 4,398 posts
  • OlyWa

Posted 30 January 2013 - 09:32 PM

Nice.I also have cut them off .Several of them.If'n you are not able to "whack them off" LOL
You are able to cut close enough that you get right under the torx head of the bolt.Then the stub comes off, and you can take vice grips to the rest of the bolt.
IIRC...Its been a few years since I have had to do it that way.
cheers

#21 Skylar

Skylar

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 403 posts
  • Puyallup, Wa

Posted 30 January 2013 - 10:21 PM

Nice.I also have cut them off .Several of them.If'n you are not able to "whack them off" LOL
You are able to cut close enough that you get right under the torx head of the bolt.Then the stub comes off, and you can take vice grips to the rest of the bolt.
IIRC...Its been a few years since I have had to do it that way.
cheers


Damnit Brian, you would quote that haha:rolleyes:

Thanks for the tip though !

#22 l75eya

l75eya

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 1,462 posts
  • Hoboken, NJ

Posted 31 January 2013 - 12:33 AM

Went back at it like an hour ago, heated it up. Smacked it, rotated it , smacked it, rotated, repeat. Came off in like 5-10 whacks lol FINALLY !!


Did you get that brief overwhelming feeling of triumph when it came off?
I usually do. I'll hit it once more after something comes loose just to be like Yeah! B'ya**.

Maybe that's just me.:rolleyes:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users