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Delco remy cs130 100 amp alternator into 80 gl 1600 need help


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25 replies to this topic

#1 mikaleda

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 03:10 PM

I have a 1980 gl 1600 external voltage regulator. When my alternator went out I decided I would try putting a better alternator in. I already had this alternator sitting on my parts shelf.
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Luckily my old alternator had a double pully on it so I swapped the pullys out and everything fit perfect. Then I modified my bracket to hold this alternator
And made a tensioner for it
Posted Image
Everything is working so far the alternator just barley fit but I am still having problems with charging. When I first got this alternator a couple months ago I had it bench tested a napa and they said it was in perfect working order :clap:
So I replaced the wire going to the battery with a better gauge wire, that helped a little. I tried attaching a ground wire (a nice heavy one) that didn't help at all.
Also all my dash lights are still stuck on which I thought was my old alternator (the old alternator died of a bad diode) I expected that the alternator light would not work properly but I thought the other lights would start working properly.

I have checked for ac ripple since the new alternator but I cannot get a reading with my cheap multi meter. I don't think that this alternator has anything wrong with it. Does anyone know what might be causing this?

#2 mikaleda

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 05:02 PM

Well this is weird I changed out negative battery cables and tried again this time the voltage shot wayyyy up it got to 17 volts before I could shut it off. I'm thinking this must be the alternator
Damn napa they can't get anything right it seems

#3 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 08:49 PM

Any alternator will put out higher voltage if its regulator isn't seeing the proper reference or is bad. Just because you are getting 17 volts doesn't mean its automatically the alternator that has failed. Is that Delco an externally regulated unit?

GD

#4 mikaleda

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 12:11 PM

Nope the cs series of alternators are totaly self contained the only thing it needs is to be hooked to a battery, that is why I chose this style alternator.
The only thing that is connected to the car is the single wire coming out the back needs a positive connection so I connected it to the hot wire for the auto choke (wich I replaced with a Manuel choke) that runs through the old voltage regulator and is only on when the car is running. The VR for the old alt. is a new napa Ecklin solid state.

Edit: I just read my op I forgot to mention it is a cs130 delco remy found in gm cars for 86-93 this one came off a 350 Chevy according to pnp markings

Edited by mikaleda, 02 February 2013 - 12:17 PM.


#5 ferox

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 01:03 PM

The only thing that is connected to the car is the single wire coming out the back needs a positive connection so I connected it to the hot wire for the auto choke (wich I replaced with a Manuel choke) that runs through the old voltage regulator and is only on when the car is running. The VR for the old alt. is a new napa Ecklin solid state.

It looks to me like you have a 3-wire alt. Hooking the field sensor wire to the choke wire is not going to give the alt correct information about the battery voltage levels. The way you have it set up, the alt "thinks" the battery voltage is whatever the choke wire voltage is, which is less than what your battery voltage should be so your alt will constantly overcharge with it connected that way. You need to run a proper field sensor wire. I would delete the external VR as well and hook-up the dash light also, but that's just me.

GD walked me through this years ago so those threads are around and there's lots of info on the webs so it's pretty simple to do it right. It's also easy to do it wrong, and with the higher amperage alt you can melt wires really easily if you have it connected wrong and your car can and will burn. No bueno.

Also, it's important to make sure you utilize the fusible link set-up or equivalent. When I converted my '81, I got a fusible link box from an '84; it mounts where the external VR is bolted on.

Edited by ferox, 02 February 2013 - 01:25 PM.


#6 mikaleda

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:30 PM

I was actually thinking the same thing about the fusible links I know better than to hook it straight to the battery (but that is how I have it hooked now just to get it working) I didn't think about the feild sensor wire being a problem that way but I will fix that. As for this being a three wire alt actually it has four wires but the other three are for gauges and lights ect. I have already looked into what the other wires do but I know on a low trim Chevy they only run the one wire so that is why I ran it that way. I was going to look into getting a plug that had the other wires so I could properly run my volt meter and indicater light. I will try changing how the feild sensor wire runs for now I will run it strait to the battery to see if that helps
I did try running a search but all of the threads were on a different series of alternators
Thank you for the help

#7 mikaleda

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:08 PM

The alternator is most defiantly bad I went to start my car after re routing the wire and nothing turned not even the lights in the dash. So I went out and checked the battery 6.5 volts un hooked it 11.5 volts so I disconnected the batt side of my alternator and reconnected battery 11.5 so something is causing a major drain in my battery. I also tried disconnecting the feild wire and that didn't help so that is not the problem it has to be a problem with something inside the alternator. I will still try running feild wire a different way after i get another alt. I will do some research on how to hook this up properly

#8 Gloyale

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:09 PM

I do know that the White/red stripe wire at the old VR connector is the charge light wire. So if you identify which wire on the alt would serve the light function, you can hook it up. All your other warning lights are tied to the charge light, and will go out when it does.

#9 mikaleda

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:30 PM

Wow there is so many topics on this it's not even funny this is going to take a while to research it sounds like I might have fried the alt myself by the way I wired it but I seems as though people have wired them in one wire and two wire applications. this one came with the factory plug with single wire but I can get plugs that have two and even four wires.

#10 mikaleda

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 03:49 PM

I do know that the White/red stripe wire at the old VR connector is the charge light wire. So if you identify which wire on the alt would serve the light function, you can hook it up. All your other warning lights are tied to the charge light, and will go out when it does.


Cool thank you gloyal that is just what I needed to know. It turns out it was my bad I fried the alternator I found this in a Toyota forum http://forum.ih8mud....k-up-wires.html
it sounds like what I need to do is go to napa get a connector that has the S and L wires. The S wire gets connected to the batt. Side of the alternator and the L needs to be run a switched 12v power source that turns on and off with the key and has a warning light with the right amount of resistance. I'm thinking just hooking the L wire to the wire gloyal mentioned will solve my problem but first I have to have the alternator fixed :banghead:

#11 mikaleda

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 11:15 AM

Okay so I found out what the problem was the single wire on my plug is the charge indicator. That is why my alternator burned out, I had hooked it straight to a power source without any resistance and I did not have any power going to the stater wich is the s terminal. So I am going to have to rebuild it, get a two wire plug, connect it to the charge light and then the stater to solid power. That should be all I need to do.

I'll start wiring today, but it might take me a while to get another alternator. I will update with results when I have a good alternator wired in this way.

#12 ferox

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:18 PM

Okay so I found out what the problem was the single wire on my plug is the charge indicator. That is why my alternator burned out, I had hooked it straight to a power source without any resistance and I did not have any power going to the stater wich is the s terminal.

The S terminal is the Sensor wire and does not go to the starter. The I or L terminal is for the dash Indicator Light.

You should have 3-4 connections:

1) Main Batt supply
2) Field Sensor Wire
3) Dash Indicator Light
4) Extra Ground Wire (optional)

The main Batt supply goes to the fusible links.

The field sensor wire connects to the main Batt supply wire right before the fusible links on the alt side of the connection.

The dash indicator light can be connected to the existing dash indicator wire.

Don't be afraid to add in-line fuses.

If you are running a new Batt supply wire make sure you disconnect the original one. It will be crimped to the main harness. On my '81 the crimp was behind the battery. On my '84, the crimp was closer to the alternator.

#13 mikaleda

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:45 PM

The S terminal is the Sensor wire and does not go to the starter. The I or L terminal is for the dash Indicator Light.

You should have 3-4 connections:

1) Main Batt supply
2) Field Sensor Wire
3) Dash Indicator Light
4) Extra Ground Wire (optional)

The main Batt supply goes to the fusible links.

The field sensor wire connects to the main Batt supply wire right before the fusible links on the alt side of the connection.

The dash indicator light can be connected to the existing dash indicator wire.

Don't be afraid to add in-line fuses.

If you are running a new Batt supply wire make sure you disconnect the original one. It will be crimped to the main harness. On my '81 the crimp was behind the battery. On my '84, the crimp was closer to the alternator.


Actually I said stater not starter and I did reaserch this the s goes to solid power and the L goes to the charge light that's it the rest is unnecessary on the plug that is
I'm running new heavy gauge wire to battery positive through a new fuse something that will hold up to this alternator and the s connection can be connected to this wire as well and the alt can be run this way but I am going to run a charge light as well L is for the dash indicator light that is what I consider a charge light
Also this alt has a four prong plug and a stud that connects to battery positive so that is five connections

Edited by mikaleda, 03 February 2013 - 12:52 PM.


#14 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:53 PM

It would be a lot easier to just get a Maxima alternator.

GD

#15 mikaleda

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:55 PM

I have to agree with you gd I might just do that If I can find one.
Also ferox you are right s is sensor wire p is stator all info needed for wiring is here http://alternatorpar...130_sbpage2.htm

Edited by mikaleda, 03 February 2013 - 12:57 PM.


#16 mikaleda

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:00 PM

Also this alternator can be hooked up by just the L wire going to the charge light but it is not optimal it's better to connect the sense wire so it can control voltage output better wich isn't that hard to do so i will be doing that

#17 ivans imports

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:05 PM

mitsubishi alt off a 88 dodge caravan is 75-100 amp same shape just slighly biger i use thiss one on my 81 brat for 10 years no problems and it charges at 14.80-15 volts woke the old brat right up

#18 mikaleda

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:16 PM

Cool I just found this http://store.alterna...pgrade-kit.aspx
Upgrade kit for cs130 $52 and some change (and whatever shipping is:grin:) but for the price I think I will get this upgrade and rebuild the alt. then I will have a 105 amp alt.

Edit: it doesn't come with voltage regulator but this kit does
http://store.alterna...pgrade-kit.aspx
And it comes with a self igniter voltage regulator and at that point I could truly run a one wire setup

Edited by mikaleda, 03 February 2013 - 01:34 PM.


#19 mikaleda

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 01:08 PM

Okay this what I am planning on doing. I am going to be very broke for a while (insurance renewal this month $$$ :( ) so this project is going to start moving slowly. I am going to keep going with the delco remy alternator. So first I am going to start wiring new 100 amp fuse for the alt and get a better setup for the fusible link. Next I will be trying to find a good cs130 or cs121 cheap that works and get it wired in properly. I know it doesn't sound like much, but unfortunately I have no car at the moment as well as no Money. I will post updates as I get parts installed.

#20 mikaleda

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 02:58 PM

Success I didn't get the gm alt in but i found a better fit. I put in a 95 impreza 3 wire alt in and it fits better even here's some pics
93A4FC32-3D4D-4968-8EB5-5BD7C57C4E61-928
F116D1E9-9C92-42D0-A577-CAB2926C37BE-928
Once I hooked it up it started charging right away and all my dash lights turned off :clap: :banana:
I just need to clean up my wiring and it will be ready to go

#21 mikaleda

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 02:59 PM

Oh ya one other thing when I first started it up I checked the voltage and it was all the way up to 15.5 but it had a dead battery I had to jump it so I will see if it settles down a bit

#22 mikaleda

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 03:38 PM

Yep it settled down to 14.5 and seems to be staying there my voltage meter inside is malfunctioning :rolleyes: but the charge light works so I'm not worried about that :banana:

#23 mikaleda

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 08:41 PM

Thank you guys for the help the alt is working flawlessly. :banana:
I learned a lot about alternators, I accutually learned how to rebuild the cs series alternators as well :)
Special thanks to ferox and gloyal your info was very usefull in this swap

Edited by mikaleda, 19 February 2013 - 08:42 PM.


#24 mikaleda

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 08:44 PM

Oh also just FYI to anyone looking at this thread the 95 impreza alts are 78 amps and just as simple to wire as the cs130 and has the same output and is more slimline and just plain easier mod than the cs121
Edit: I would say that the 95 impreza alt is almost as simple as the maxima upgrade

Edited by mikaleda, 19 February 2013 - 08:46 PM.


#25 ferox

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:04 PM

Thank you guys for the help the alt is working flawlessly. :banana:
I learned a lot about alternators, I accutually learned how to rebuild the cs series alternators as well :)
Special thanks to ferox and gloyal your info was very usefull in this swap

 

You're certainly welcome.  Cougar and GD helped me years ago, so I'm just passing it along.  When you get a little extra scratch I recommend a proper battery charger, so you don't have to use your alternator...they don't like charging dead batteries.






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