23 replies to this topic

[ontherun987]

I have a 1987 gl with a 1.8 ea82, I holds oil but is covered in it. The ticking has gotten louder on start up, I read on here that resealing the motor would help with the tick. So with resealing, do I just replace the gaskets?
Do I need to resurface any thing?
Any special tools?
Any other thoughts?
I am sorry if these are noob questions, Thank you for your help.

Here's some pics

[old sub freak]

That dosn't look too bad.My E82 was drippin oil all over.It was blowing back on to the exaust... It was a mess.So i replaced the main crank oil seal,the 2 cam seals ,I re did the oil pump and replaced the valve covers.Now i was told that the valve cover bolts were too long from the start.So when they tightened them down they would bottom out before they were all the way tight,so you are spossed to put a extra flat washer on each bolt so you will be sure they are tight enough...anyone heard that? Oh and you can try n just tightening the oil pan bolts or go the whole 9 yards and jack up the engin, drop the exaust and replace the pan gasket.. But its all doable,After the oil pump is resealed that will help soften the tic,tic tic.Check out some of Miles Foxes video's, He covers all what i was talkin about.Have fun ,Take your time.and smile when you think of all the money your saving doing it your self !! c ya todd:banana:

[Subruise]

^+1. also, i would go to the dealer and order 2 cam case o rings and do those too, you seem to have some leakage there. part number 13089AA010, these can ONLY be found at the dealer. if ya found it somewhere else....its wrong. while youre in there, spend the 40ish bucks and send a set of lifters to mizpah and have them rebuilt. as far as resurfacing, not unless you are doing hgs (assuming your intake isnt all bunged up)


lmk if ya need anything, im right up the road

[The FNG]

I got the cam o-rings from fel-pro or in one of my kits from rock auto. They worked for me, but who's to say they wont fail early? Anyway, you shouldn't need to go to the dealer for that one. So far, the only 2 things I would say you HAVE to buy from subaru are intake manifold gaskets and a thermostat. That's all I've come across, but others on here have more experience.

[NorthWet]

I see more rust than signs of oil... my West Coast eyes see nothing but minor weeping from the gaskets. (I hear that severe-Winter areas can have things rust regardless of the amount of oil on them, so consider my bias...) Anyway, what I see looks fine. More likely to cause a real leak by messing with it.

I don't think that it is justified to dig into the engine just to replace the rubber-coated metal washers ("O-rings") between cam carrier and the head. I feel that if they haven't ever been disturbed, then they are probably doing just fine: the worst that the factory seals can do is weep a little, and then that weeping has to get past several millimeters of machined mating surface to escape into the oil-drainback area. There should be no significant loss of flow or pressure. To me, the REAL issue occurs when someone replaces them with rubber o-rings and they come adrift and jam into the oil passage. If already apart, then yes, replace with OEM (or similar rubber-coated metal) seal. (Probably better to have no seal than using an O-ring.)

For ticking, look to oil pump (volume/pressure issues), the pump's mickey-mouse seal (output leakage of input sucking air), or HLAs that need repair/replace.

Honestly, from these pics I don't see any leakage to be concerned about. Maybe I am missing oil getting into the t-belt area.

[NorthWet]

I got the cam o-rings from fel-pro or in one of my kits from rock auto....

Are you referring to the big o-rings under the camshaft end caps/carriers, of the little seals that go between head and cam-carrier case?

[l75eya]

If it holds the oil and you don't have to put a quart in it every week, and you're concerned about the ticking, just replace the oil pump + gasket.

[MilesFox]

Consider doing the oil pump and cam seals along with the front main seal. You have to get behind the timing belts to do this. LEave all the covers off for future service.

If you still have laks or lifter ticks, consider rebuilding the cam towers and replacing the lifters if the oil pump seals do not cure it.

The front end of the engine is relatively simple to do. The cam retainers are removable so therefore you can replace the seals on a bench. The cam towers are relatively easy to do, but more difficult to do with he engine in the car, trying to not drop all the lifters as you put it together.

[ontherun987]

Thank you you all your help:headbang: I will look into the oil pump and lifters

[ontherun987]

Would Seafoam in the oil and an oil change help the tick?

[MilesFox]

This depends on if the lifters are dirty and starved for oil. Doesn't hurt to try. Use some in the intake to clear out the PCV and carbon deposits.

Generally lifter tik is caused by aeration (tiny bubbles) of the oil due to a cavitated oil pump seal or lack of pressure from a leaking cam tower o-ring.

sometimes the lifters are just worn out or collapsed. You can make this determination if oyu had remvoed the cam towers and tried to squeeze on them by hand. If they are easy to depress, they may be worn.

It is recommended to do the oil pump seal, and i would bet a dollar one of the 'ears' on the mickey shaped o-ring is sucked in and looks like a pac-man. This is usually the case with anything i have worked on.

:EDIT:
Here is a picture from someone's recent post. I just found it after mentioning the pac man, and then i notice this one has it too. I win a dollar

Edited by MilesFox, 04 February 2013 - 12:10 AM.

[ontherun987]

Is there a rebuild kit for the oil pump or do I have to buy a new one?

[MilesFox]

Depending on where you shop it, but there is the mickey seal, an internal o-ring, and a shaft seal. 3 parts total.

[Ofeargall]

LOL! Hey, That's mine!

I replaced my timing belts, 'rebuilt' my oil pump, replaced my cam seals and cam cap o-rings and removed my timing belt covers all in a day.

It's easy-peasy. And, after about 5 miles my ticking lifters grew silent.

:EDIT:
Here is a picture from someone's recent post. I just found it after mentioning the pac man, and then i notice this one has it too. I win a dollar

The 'rebuild' on the EA82 oil pump is essentially replacing o-rings. The BIGGEST difficulty is getting the oil pump drive pulley off the pump shaft. I heated up the shoulder nut on the shaft and let it cool down then put some PB Blaster on it so it would soak in. After that the nut came off easily. I had to use my giant channel locks to hold the drive pulley while breaking the nut loose. Just be sure to wrap it in something so you don't mark up the pulley surface.

And, I gotta say, you're 'oil leak' makes the under side of my engine look like the Gulf Oil Spill of 2010! We named our car Smokey because there is so much oil on the exhaust that is looks like an oil refinery fire when you pull up to a stoplight.

Having said that, I just resealed the pump on Saturday and drove it 70 miles to work today and there is significantly less oil on the under side of the engine. I let it sit and and saw only a very small spot of oil on the ground. Previously it looked like I was trying to lubricate the parking lot.

One tip I found the most useful here is the started bump trick when removing the crank pulley. Do it. You'll save a lot of headache. Just don't be a fool about it. Be safe and it's fine.

I used my 18" breaker bar with a 22mm impact socket on it. Place the socket on the crank pulley bolt head and place the handle against the frame in front of the motor. (I removed the radiator to do the work, but you don't have to...). As you're facing the engine the handle will extend to your right and rest on the frame.

DISCONNECT the coil wire going to the distributor.

Now, simply 'bump' the starter. - You're done.

I was able to remove the bolt with my fingers after this technique. For the record. I did try to loosen the nut without this method but quickly realized the futility and went immediatly to mechanical advantage (the starter bump method).

With the crank pulley off and the water pump pulley removed you're wide open to remove the timing belt covers and get going on that oil pump.

[ontherun987]

Cool thanks for the help:headbang:

[scoobiedubie]

LOL! Hey, That's mine!

I replaced my timing belts, 'rebuilt' my oil pump, replaced my cam seals and cam cap o-rings and removed my timing belt covers all in a day.

It's easy-peasy. And, after about 5 miles my ticking lifters grew silent.



The 'rebuild' on the EA82 oil pump is essentially replacing o-rings. The BIGGEST difficulty is getting the oil pump drive pulley off the pump shaft. I heated up the shoulder nut on the shaft and let it cool down then put some PB Blaster on it so it would soak in. After that the nut came off easily. I had to use my giant channel locks to hold the drive pulley while breaking the nut loose. Just be sure to wrap it in something so you don't mark up the pulley surface.

And, I gotta say, you're 'oil leak' makes the under side of my engine look like the Gulf Oil Spill of 2010! We named our car Smokey because there is so much oil on the exhaust that is looks like an oil refinery fire when you pull up to a stoplight.

Having said that, I just resealed the pump on Saturday and drove it 70 miles to work today and there is significantly less oil on the under side of the engine. I let it sit and and saw only a very small spot of oil on the ground. Previously it looked like I was trying to lubricate the parking lot.

One tip I found the most useful here is the started bump trick when removing the crank pulley. Do it. You'll save a lot of headache. Just don't be a fool about it. Be safe and it's fine.

I used my 18" breaker bar with a 22mm impact socket on it. Place the socket on the crank pulley bolt head and place the handle against the frame in front of the motor. (I removed the radiator to do the work, but you don't have to...). As you're facing the engine the handle will extend to your right and rest on the frame.

DISCONNECT the coil wire going to the distributor.

Now, simply 'bump' the starter. - You're done.

I was able to remove the bolt with my fingers after this technique. For the record. I did try to loosen the nut without this method but quickly realized the futility and went immediatly to mechanical advantage (the starter bump method).

With the crank pulley off and the water pump pulley removed you're wide open to remove the timing belt covers and get going on that oil pump.

If you line the timing mark up on the 3 flywheel tics, there is a nearby hole in the flywheel that you can insert a screw driver to keep the flywheel from spinning while you either loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. Subaru also makes a flywheel stop that goes into that same flywheel hole.

[old sub freak]

Well I had a surprize(well kind of) after doing the seals on the front of my daughters E82 engine.Hmmm its still leaking some oil...Its getting on the exaust and stinking.Hmmmm Oh yea there was one seal I didn't do....The rear main seal....So that and the clutch are on the list.I didn't think it would leak that much but it does. So if your doing the oil seals don't forget to plan on the rear main..I did. Hey ,Good things take time....Right? C ya,todd

[Dinky26]

Well I had a surprize(well kind of) after doing the seals on the front of my daughters E82 engine.Hmmm its still leaking some oil...Its getting on the exaust and stinking.Hmmmm Oh yea there was one seal I didn't do....The rear main seal....So that and the clutch are on the list.I didn't think it would leak that much but it does. So if your doing the oil seals don't forget to plan on the rear main..I did. Hey ,Good things take time....Right? C ya,todd

Thanks bud, I am glad you posted that thought, I ordered both the front and rear seals from Shawn. One of these days I'll get her back together.

[MR_Loyale]

If it holds the oil and you don't have to put a quart in it every week, and you're concerned about the ticking, just replace the oil pump + gasket.

 

Or deploy the anti-ticking device.

[ontherun987]

Like?

[scoobiedubie]

The leak that hits the exhaust, is from the camtower covers.  For that you need new gaskets, new rubber bolt washers and a tube of permatex gasket sealer.  When you replace the gaskets, after cleaning off the cover and camtower with brake cleaner (and don't get any brake cleaner on any rubber CV joints or Power steering boots), you maker sure you have permatex in the lower half of the groove in the camtower cover, before you put the gasket in it.  Then coat the exposed edge of the gasket, for the lower half as well.  Lastly, you get the permatex in the gap between the bolts and the rubber washers, for the two bottom bolts.  Then put the cover on by installing the top two bolts first.

[88wacaroo]

OIL LEAKS??? What Oil Leaks??? All I see is a little seeping [nothing] and some dirt-dust  A little car wash action and that thing will look brand new and if it does have A leak you"ll find it easier!! I"ll show you guys a OIL LEAKS-my buddies caravan is outlawed from parking in my driveway  It leaks Over A Quart A day-TRANS,POW STR.,MTR.,He parks in front of my neighbors house {IT"S outlawed from in frt. of my house!!} an it sits for 2-3hrs. an leaves a 2ft.x1-1/2ft. PUDDLE of oil on the street  He won"t quit drivin it long enough for me to fix it- Worker van He spends 15-20min.every morning putting oil in it for the day It"s stupid   I"ve gotten to the point of it being funny now

[MR_Loyale]

The only sure way to know where it is leaking is a UV/ test. Kits are cheap and no guessing required.

[scoobiedubie]

Most people here are proponents of the "replace oil pump gaskets" to get rid of the alleged valve ticking noise that is most likely noisy lifters.  I am not a member of that club.  From my own experience, it is the careful assembly of the camtower onto the cylinder head, that is most effective for quieting good hydraulic lifters.  Having good clean oil that is not contaminated with a dilutant like brake cleaner, also helps keep the oil pressure in the hydraulic lifters.  Replacing oil pump seals is a very big deal, even though it sounds simple.

Tips for Repairing camtower to cylinder head joint: 

Upper removal of the camtower, you should immediately check the lifters to see whether they are hard and hold oil.  If the tip can be pushed into the assembly, they are either bad or they are not getting the oil pressure that they need.  Replace them if in doubt.  At the joint between the cylinder head and camtower, the two interior oil carrying, flat surfaces on the camtower, that contact the cylinder head, need to be lightly buttered with the Three-Bond gasket maker or Permatex Ultra-gray gasket maker, before assembly.  Natural both contact surfaces should be free of all oil.  Also, you must have a good Subaru rubber covered metal O-ring.  The Subaru O-rings can became flat as a pancake with heat and age, and become worthless.  I replace mine every 50,000 miles because I usually have some other kind of issue that causes me to get into the engine far enough to replace them.  Standard O-rings will melt rather quickly.  The leak from your picture, appears to be primarily from this joint and secondarily from the camtower cover joint.  Your gasket making material also appears to be completely shot, at the camtower to cylinder head joint.