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Gen 2 4EAT, Anyone ever splice in a new vehicle speed sensor?
Posted 04 February 2013 - 10:17 AM
I need to replace my rear vehicle speed sensor, wondering if anyone has ever done the splice job and just replaced one sensor.
Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:06 AM
Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:37 AM
What's the trick?
Posted 04 February 2013 - 10:47 PM
Posted 05 February 2013 - 09:18 AM
I'm going to spend some time on it tomorrow, maybe I'll just spot a broken or pinched wire and it'll be an easy fix. (It's never an easy fix, is it?)
Posted 05 February 2013 - 09:19 AM
have done some trace the wires back to the conector and unpin them from it then you can change it out as a unit without a splice. I have a few of those harnesses out and have fixed that before
Have you seen a common type of failure? Broken wire vs shorted by chafing vs just a bad sensor?
Posted 05 February 2013 - 09:48 AM
Posted 05 February 2013 - 10:49 AM
Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:21 PM
CNYDAVE call me if you need some help Ilive in SUMMER HILL 13154962093 STEVE `
You're like 6 miles away so you should just drop by tomorrow afternoon (I'll be working from home and working on the car).
S on Salt, L on Stevens, tan house brown roof with the silly big garage behind it, used to be Gilbert's machine shop.
Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:24 PM
not many speed senser problems mostly pinched wires or shop damage i do see the senser get wiped out when the pinion fails and alows the pinion to shuttle back and forth any meatal bitts on the end of senser will mess up its signal. should be able to contunuity check the senser harness or see its pattern on a vantage. I dont think iv'e seen a senser just fail randomly always a reason for it
Hopefully the removers at the junkyard pinched a wire or such, if the old sensor comes out with metal bits on it or is mangled, indicating an internal problem, I'm going to be quite depressed. But, it's the rear VSS, so at least it would (tend to) be a tailhousing-accessible problem.
Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:50 PM
Edited by CNY_Dave, 05 February 2013 - 12:57 PM.
Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:53 PM
it makes sense that it could ba a bad wire, or connector.
and if i understand correctly, you do not have a flashing AT Temp light. if this is correct, then i do not think the rear speed sensor is in fact the problem.
however, i'm just playing the odds. and i tend to be very conservative and think that every problem is the most common problem. obviously this is not always the case.
but the VSS 1 fails ''10 MILLION'' times less often than the VSS2. (exaggeration intended.) i don't think i remember ever hearing of a rear sensor failing.
be sure before you cut.
Edited by johnceggleston, 05 February 2013 - 06:55 PM.
Posted 05 February 2013 - 07:10 PM
Yeah, no flashing AT light, but a clear-as-day code 93 from the gerblinky-blinky AT temp light when put into diagnostic mode.
I even snagged a video of it so I could be sure.
This was a junkyard trans, it wouldn't be that hard for the yard guys to have hit the sensor or pinched a lead.
I did have to straighten the ATF dipstick tube by a fair amount.
Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:00 AM
Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:24 AM
Posted 06 February 2013 - 12:10 PM
Either it's intermittent or there's a prob in the harness between the connector and the TCU, and the problem was just a coincidence.
Posted 06 February 2013 - 12:21 PM
Posted 06 February 2013 - 02:03 PM
All the other diagnostic branches suggest it's either an intermittent or the TCU, as if a scope or the SSM or an AC voltmeter show no signal, it's ruled an either an intermittent or a bad TCM.
Would be funny if the TCM decided to go kaput right when swapping the trans.
Posted 06 February 2013 - 05:23 PM
Since it seems to have a tiny bit of binding in a full-lock turn but no AWD I'm going to guess the clutch pack was abused and is no good, but I still can check the duty C solenoid, somehow.
Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:29 AM
Well now, looks like '04 had the reversed functionality for the Duty C solenoid.
FWD fuse in place results in the transfer clutch being locked.
Ain't this special.
This also explains why I was getting what felt like binding while doing small circles at min throttle, and why I sometimes get a 'clunk' from the rear when turning the key off (it's the rear driveshaft 'relaxing').
So, does this mean I need an '04 TCU? An '04 TCU and ECU?
Do I need to make a manual duty-cycle control?
Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:55 AM
what is the trans id code on the bell housing?
a long time ago i heard something like this on JDM auto trans. but it was a long time ago and only one report so i didn't really take it seriously.
but i guess it could be.
Posted 08 February 2013 - 10:10 AM
Subaru says 'your best bet is to just use another transmission', no info avail on if the change is confined to the valve body or the extension housing.
tHE BEST INFO IS THAT NO ecu FLASH CAN FIX IT, AND THE '04 tcu WOULD REQUIRE CHANGING ALL THE OTHER VEHICLE CONTROL MODULES (oops, caps-lock stuck).
Looks like I will be either 'inverting' the duty-c signal (although low duty cycle won't neccesarily translate into the proper high-duty-cycle signal), or I'll be fabbing my own manual control unit.
John, the new trans has ID TZ1A4ZMFAA-M7, don't have the old trans number with me.
The odds of a 4EAT 2004 swap into a 2000-2003 (or vice-versa) is pretty low, so it's not surprising it hasn't been seen as a problem.
It clearly is the case though that the duty-c signals are bass-ackwards.
Posted 08 February 2013 - 10:13 AM
Its funny, I google that trans code and I only get hits in Germany and Russia.
Posted 08 February 2013 - 11:15 AM
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