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Motor oils and brands


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31 replies to this topic

#26 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 12:26 AM

I Agree with twitch on this:
 
 

My only argument is that you need to be aware of the oil spec for your region.
Running 20w50 is fine for Honduras, but may not be the best choice for North Dakota in December.
You have to buy your oil based on your operating temps.
...

 
 
That is Why I clarified:
 
 

I've been using SAE 20W~50 Motor Oil on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" EA82 since I can Remember ... ;) ...

300,000 Miles so far and it Runs Very Strong!
 
But My Caribbean Country has Warm to Hot Climates 75% of the Year.

 
Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 21 February 2014 - 12:28 AM.


#27 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 12:39 AM

So speaking of oil and such does anyone use ProLong oil treatment? I don't use it alot but after watching there infomercial when they treat the engine with it and then take off the oil pan and drive around southern California. ??? When I saw the film clip of the 4 banger  engine running without any oil pan I thought its either a blantent lie or this stuff really works???? so I gave it a shot.I surley don't use it everytime I change my oil,cause at $20 bucks a pop that would sure add up. So what do you all think?? Snake oil or something that can really help your engine??  Anyway It does make me feel better HaHa OSF  Oh and PS if you haven't taken a close look at my picture over there,Its a guy holding a dipstick.Under that is says"The dipstick tells the story"   How true that is !!! I got it from a vintage oil filter box from the 30's? Altho I don't think oil filters were even populal then..hmmm mabey the 1940's??? either way i sure like it

 

Well, since I get paid to peddle this stuff, I have a pretty good idea what is crap and what is good.

If it has PTFE in it, run like hell. Teflon has no business being in your engine.

I've heard of people using ProLong, but honestly, unless they have legitimate test reports, I would call BS.

There are only 3 "add and drive" oil products I've ever heard of doing diddly in your engine:

1. Seafoam, if you've never heard of it, do some digging on this site. And if you hate it and it "ruined" your engine, you probably used it wrong.

2. Marvel Mystery Oil, was actually originally designed as a lightweight oil, but the original application evaporated out from under it, so it became an additive for engine oils to increase lubricity at lower temps (aka: get rid of that initial startup tick).

3. Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and the only thing it does is make the oil thicker and increase its elasticity. Good for slight leaks, sometimes.

 

Twitch



#28 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 08:39 PM

You are forgetting the Molybdenum Disulphide, shortened as "MoS2" which is an Extremly Good Oil Additive, with Proven Positive Effects.

 

 

EngineAdditiveWars.jpg

 

 

The MoS2 is totally the opposite to Teflon, because instead of adding a Film "Layer" of sticking gunk, it does really work as Liquid Ball Bearings, also seems like "MoS2" is the Future of electronics, as you can read ~► Here.

 

I've poured it in my Subaru "BumbleBeast" Weberized EA82 engine, and in my Wife's "KiaStein" T8D DOHC Engine. I've used for Many Years, Special Gearbox & Differential oils formulated with "MoS2" in 80W~90 from Motul, as you can see:

 

 

GearBoxOil.jpg

 

 

I've used Motul Gearbox / diff oil with MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) Since many years ago, Always with Great Results; believe me: it REALLY Smoothes any Manual Gearbox I've poured it in (and I've used it in many, many cars, from friends' to my family cars, and someone else's cars I've serviced), so beside the extended life for a Gearbox / diff, it also makes it Smoother, I mean Softer shiftings and reduced noise & heat.

 

 

The Molybdenum Disulphide is Widely used in High Quality Constant Velocity Joints' Grease:

 

 

HPIM9193.jpg

 

 

The Correct Mix of Oil or Grease with MoS2, was patented by the German Lab "Liqui-Moly" as you can read: ~► Hereand its formula is used in Liqui-Moly / Lubro Moly Motul Products, widely known here, with great Reputation.

 

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 21 February 2014 - 12:35 AM.


#29 86 Wonder Wedge

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 01:11 AM

I'm still running 5w40 Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck in my 130k EA82 because a) it covers the operating temps year round, B) more zinc than any other 5w40 out there, and c) can actually do the 7500 mile interval Subaru recommends in the manual. Yes, my valve cover gasket leak has increased slightly due to the detergent nature of the synthetic oil, but I get no more lifter tick, the oil still is 60% "clear" at 5k miles and when teamed with a Purolator PureONE, Blackstone said I can run a 10k mile OCI with that setup. And with the high zinc, it adds just a bit more protection for the vulnerable cam towers (and their lack of cam bearings. Really, Subaru?)

Castrol is a nice oil, been running GTX in my 265 Pontiac V8 when my old Diesel spec 10w30 rotella T ran out.. Has the lowest paraffin content of any similar oil..

#30 mikaleda

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 11:25 AM

I like marvles mystery oil. I once knew a guy with a Honda that he ran out of oil and got a rod knock he filled it back up with oil and one quart of marvles and drove it for three months!!! :lol: I also like the Lucas I have never used their oil treatment but I know their tranny treatment works well.

#31 Crazyeights

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 03:00 PM

Well, since I get paid to peddle this stuff, I have a pretty good idea what is crap and what is good.

If it has PTFE in it, run like hell. Teflon has no business being in your engine.

I've heard of people using ProLong, but honestly, unless they have legitimate test reports, I would call BS.

There are only 3 "add and drive" oil products I've ever heard of doing diddly in your engine:

1. Seafoam, if you've never heard of it, do some digging on this site. And if you hate it and it "ruined" your engine, you probably used it wrong.

2. Marvel Mystery Oil, was actually originally designed as a lightweight oil, but the original application evaporated out from under it, so it became an additive for engine oils to increase lubricity at lower temps (aka: get rid of that initial startup tick).

3. Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and the only thing it does is make the oil thicker and increase its elasticity. Good for slight leaks, sometimes.

 

Twitch

What do you think about using a Zinc additive in the oil on solid lifter engines?



#32 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 01:57 AM

@Loyale 2.7 Turbo, unfortunately I've never run across that particular additive in the store I work for, or at least not visibly.

I'll do some looking around to see who uses it in the US.

 

What do you think about using a Zinc additive in the oil on solid lifter engines?

 

Ehhh, depends on what oil you're already putting in it.

If you're running a diesel oil in it, its probably overkill.

If you're running the cheapest oil you can get your hands on, it'll probably help.

From what I understand about zinc, is it slowly galvanizes the surface of the metal to reduce the overall friction, or so the theory goes.

It may help disperse any static as well, but that's something I'll have to dig into deeper.

I would think a solid ground strap would fix the static problem :P

 

Twitch






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