Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

pulling the 2.2 - what to do?


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 FleaDog

FleaDog

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 42 posts
  • West Chester

Posted 10 February 2013 - 11:07 PM

Whatup guys I have a 95 legacy L wagon with 4eat auto trans. Engine has 185k and runs strong.

I am unsure of the service history so I am going to pull the motor to do the full TB job. It also appears to have the oil separator plate leak symptoms which stinks (literally).

So while I have the motor out I want to take care of as much stuff as I can to remedy future problems/leaks. Here goes:

1. Full TB job, OE tstat
2. new separator plate, screws, sealant, thread locker
3. new oil pump O ring, new screws on back plate, thread locker
4. new oil pan gasket
5. valve cover gaskets, spark plug bucket gaskets
6. cam seals
7. rear main seal only if leaking

any tips, wisdom appreciated!

Edited by FleaDog, 10 February 2013 - 11:11 PM.


#2 djmark7

djmark7

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 233 posts
  • NW New Jersey

Posted 11 February 2013 - 12:57 AM

water pump



#3 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 8,426 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:58 AM

No plug well grommets on the 95 2.2. Plugs stick out of the top of the head above the valve cover. If oil is in the wells replace the filler tube o-ring and reseal the power steering pump. Also the oil pressure sender likes to leak, replace that too if its making a mess.

Since the engine will be out reseal the oil pan and install a new o-ring on the pickup tube.
Check the bolts that hold the rocker shaft assemblies on, they can back out and cause trouble.
The one thing it probably doesn't need is the rear main seal, but if it does need it, dealer part only, and make sure the new seal gets installed at exactly the same depth as the old seal.

If the screws on the oil pump backing plate are loose (not such a big problem on the older engines) just clean them up and reinstall with thread lock. Use anaerobic sealant on the oil pump to avoid clogging the oil feed ports in the heads.

#4 FleaDog

FleaDog

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 42 posts
  • West Chester

Posted 11 February 2013 - 10:24 PM

thanks for the tips.

Are the cam seals the same front/back (2 of the same set)?

Ive got to take the sprockets off to do the cam seals, so whats the best game plan to tackle that in lieu of the rest of the TB job.? loosen the bolts with the belt still on. they are key'd, right?

thx



#5 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,295 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:48 PM

You can loosen the bolts before removing the belts. Teh cam pulleys just have a peg that lines up to the snout of the camshaft, whereas the crank shaft has a woodruff key.

 

If you decide to do the front main seal, it is contained in the oil pump which can be removed and built on a bench.

 

The cam sensor side of the cam seal will have a retainer that comes off, and an o-ring behind it.  The opposide head has a round plate on the back that contains an o-ring ans well. Either side are the same part number.



#6 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 8,426 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:53 PM

Yeah I loosen them before removing the old belt. The sprockets are keyed. Drivers side sprocket has notches on the back for the cam position sensor. Make sure that one gets put back on the correct side.

The front seals are the same.
The drivers side has an extension off the front of the head with an o-ring behind it. Passenger side has a cap on the rear of the head. Same O-ring for both.

I almost forgot to say, replace the wrist pin access cover O-ring in the bellhousing. It's the diamond shaped cover. If you can't get the o-ring RTV or anaerobic sealer will work just as well.

#7 lmdew

lmdew

    _______

  • Members
  • 2,792 posts
  • Colorado Springs

Posted 12 February 2013 - 05:40 AM

Push the TC back into the trans once the 4 bolts are out of the flex plate and then make sure it stays fully seated.  I've found that when fully seated the TC will lightly rub the Starter teeth when you push it back and turn the TC.  Easy way to ensure it's fully seated.

 

Will likely need new TB Cover Seals, at least the bottom one.



#8 FleaDog

FleaDog

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 42 posts
  • West Chester

Posted 12 February 2013 - 07:01 PM

thanks so much for the tips. yes, the potential problem of not seating the TC when removing/ reinstalling the motor is my biggest fear. doing tons of research on that.

 

Should I check/clean/service the hydraulic lash adjusters?


Edited by FleaDog, 12 February 2013 - 09:58 PM.


#9 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 8,426 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 12 February 2013 - 11:27 PM

No need to service the hydraulic lash adjusters. They'll make a racket after you start it for the first time after doing major work but they quiet down after 30 minutes or so. Run Valvoline High mileage 5w30 and they'll stay quiet. That stuff has some great detergents in it that keep everything clean and the lifters from getting varnished and sticky.

#10 FleaDog

FleaDog

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 42 posts
  • West Chester

Posted 13 February 2013 - 03:55 PM

I've got a suttle ticking noise that sounds similar to the ticking noise in the videos on stuck hla's.
That's why I was gonna check/clean/replace them if needed.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users