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153 replies to this topic

#51 rpholz

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 09:57 PM

oh look....... rust.... yay... :angry:

 

whatevs... fixed the rust up top behind the tail light and stuffs...

 

so to ensure my work doesnt go to sh!t i need to find a new hatch soooooon



#52 rpholz

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 08:56 PM

Boring update:

Pulled the brake lines and master cylinder of a auto loyale. I now have brakes.

And I may have accidentally lit the body kit on fire.....

#53 zukiru

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 12:42 AM

I'm confused. What car are you hunting down ej25 heads for. For some reason i thought you had decided to ej this one.
Do you have a spare stock turbo?

#54 rpholz

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 08:03 AM

I'm weighing my options,

And negative, just td04s

#55 rpholz

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 11:59 PM

downpipe is done and bolted in, o2 is in

intercooler is bolted in for the final time

ground straps added

wire for water temp sender run as well

IC water pump+ reservoir in place/bolted down



#56 rpholz

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 07:04 PM

Exhaust is totally done and bolted in
Oil catch can is done and in
IC to heat exchanger lines are in
Grill put back on
Air filter bracket fabed up

#57 rpholz

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 07:12 PM

63ED10A3-0260-476F-BA94-D023B8893758-163

#58 rpholz

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 07:54 AM

Really hoping to fire this thing up on Sunday, so expect late night updates and poor overly tired grammar, is my work shift over yet??!!

#59 tizzle

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:42 AM

I also am going to need a new hatch soon.  My trunk is nothing like that though.  Check out this auto wrecking database for your lid.  Prices are surprisingly low, so shipping to FL might not be out of the question.  Listed as "lid"

 

http://car-part.com/


Edited by tizzle, 13 April 2013 - 10:45 AM.


#60 rpholz

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 11:48 AM

Huh, appreciate the heads up, looks like everything is a minimum of 400miles away, no surprise.

They do list a white no spoiler/wiper for 150. Hmmmmm

#61 rpholz

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 11:48 AM

double post


Edited by rpholz, 14 April 2013 - 02:12 AM.


#62 tizzle

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 02:59 PM

I assume the lids are shaped exactly the same so the spoiler should transfer over after drilling a couple holes



#63 rpholz

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 02:18 AM

Yea, they are. no differences between 3dr or RX. it would be easier to make a mold for carbon fiber hatch without everything attached.

 

ACC belts in. water pump for IC is wired. Thermoswitch in the rad is in. Fan is in. vacuum from intake to ecu is ran.

Wireing is done, well except a 6" lead to a switch, put in a battery, all guages and what have you light up and are ready to go.

tomorrow will be throw the halltech in, load my base map, check the tank, add fuel and turn key.

 

dont expect to drive it tomorrow as i have 1 oddball tire on it and the shifter linkage is partially disassembled.



#64 zukiru

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 10:34 AM

Nice!

#65 rpholz

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 11:47 AM

RAAAIIIINNNNNNNN????!!!!!!

 

 

FARK!



#66 rpholz

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 11:02 PM

GAAAHHHH!

 

i can't get the coil to fire!



#67 rpholz

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 01:03 AM

ok, correction

 

when you first turn the motor over you get one strong spark, then nothing.

any ideas?



#68 crazyman03

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 06:23 AM

how is the power to the coil?

-Justin

#69 grossgary

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 09:42 AM

igniter?
distributor (swap in another one if you have it), it houses the crank angle sensor which i think the ECU requires to trigger spark?  i've only seen two "go bad" and in both cases it happened on a motor that sat...coincidence or something inside gets corroded....



#70 rpholz

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 10:17 AM

Justin, I get 12v to the coil. I need to further test the igniter.

Gary, the CAS is working as when I crank it over the haltech reads the rpms. Also I'm afraid I don't have another disty to quickly swap.

#71 grossgary

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 11:01 AM

Justin, I get 12v to the coil. I need to further test the igniter.

Gary, the CAS is working as when I crank it over the haltech reads the rpms. Also I'm afraid I don't have another disty to quickly swap.

 

Both times I had this happen - the distributors seemed to be working...I just found one post from one of those incidents and I see that I mention I did have spark and everything "seemed" to be working properly - both of those times the car started when i installed another distributor. I would have never tried it in this case posted below had i not seen it happen once before. not likely to be your issue but if you keep hitting dead ends on more likely areas might be worth a shot to clean your existing one out or find another to test.

http://www.ultimates...tributor +start



#72 zukiru

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 07:36 PM

I also had a bad distributor that seemed to fire but it was making weak spark.... That was an 86 disty but still. Sorry you didn't crank it.

#73 rpholz

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 08:14 AM

ok so here is the update.
CAS in the disty has been replaced
Igniter replaced
Pulled the disty and confirmed which wire is which.

When you first turn the engine over you get 1v at the igniter causing a spark, it then immediately drops to .1v and stays there. Not sure where to look on this one

#74 rpholz

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 06:38 PM

Sent the map to haltech, they made a few suggestions, ill try it again in a few days, other than that I'm still at a total loss.

#75 rpholz

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 08:47 PM

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Got a call from Scott at Haltech (from Australia) we didn't get it running but he showed me what I was doing wrong and did get it to spark consistently. which meaaaaaans. tomorrow after work this this is absolutely going to run!!!

 

now to go home and count trigger wheel teeth ;)






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