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93 Loyale driver's door...


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What are you getting at? There is a plastic vapor barrier there, and a bunch of bolts that hold the window regulator assembly. There is a rather large opening to access all of that, and a smaller opening towards the door handle. The speaker sits ina cradle that is removable. The harness for the lock,speaker,and window follow along between these openings.

 

Are you contemplating a stash spot?

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Remove the screws to the pull handle, pop off the bezel around the handle. The bottom of the panel pops off, and the top part hangs on the lip fo the door between the window.

 

There are adjustments for the door handle and lock pull levers. You can access the lock cylinder and the outside door handle nuts from the opening pehind the door handle.

 

IF you are removing the window, roll it down so you can see the bolts thru the opening.

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What are you getting at? There is a plastic vapor barrier there, and a bunch of bolts that hold the window regulator assembly. There is a rather large opening to access all of that, and a smaller opening towards the door handle. The speaker sits ina cradle that is removable. The harness for the lock,speaker,and window follow along between these openings.

 

Are you contemplating a stash spot?

 

LOL. No I don't want a "stash spot".  Yeah I know there is a vapor barrier and a bunch of connecting rods and such. I had the passenger front door apart once- never the driver door. No I need an illustration of the precise layout so I can shop actuators.

 

I want to add an actuator on the drivers side door so I can then add a remote lock/unlock.  I can certainly add this as it is now but it will do all doors but the driver's side since there is no actuator in the driver door. Kind defeats the point wouldn't you say?

 

I want to know the layout without having to tear it apart myself just to see the layout. Those Loyale actuators can go for $100 and I am not even sure if there are mounting points to make it easiy to add. Parts store have other makes online much cheaper. I would rather have the diagram so I can do "figgerin" in my head rather than bolting crap up and having it not work. Besides it is wet and cold out right now and I am laid up with a broken foot so I wouldn't do this until spring.  I have seen diagrams online for other doors, just not the driver side.

 

Here is one for the rear left door:

 

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If you are trying to add power locks, you can scavenge them off any GL wagon from 85-94 loyale. You are best off from 88 and up for an exact match. Simply carry over the door harness and plug in the extra leads behind the kick panel. The loyale does acommodate any accessory available on GL's that are not present in the loyale.

 

If you swapped on whole doors with power windows and locks, they will just work.with no mods. same goes for the rear tailgate

 

I recommed this as it is the cheapest option, and you are still using factory parts. If you are getting new actuators anyway, it is still worth trying to salvage a door harness. But then again, if you invent your own harness, rest assure there will be a plug on the body to connect it to and no further.

Edited by MilesFox
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My Loyale already has power locks. But there is no actuator in the driver side door as it is used as a master switch to open all the other doors. Does the GL work the same way? I don't have the wiring diagram for a GL, but I do for the 93 Loyale I have.

 

Is there an actuator inside the driver door on the GL models with power locks?

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Ok, i get what you are saying. I would imagine it is supposed to work with the driver door and key as a master. As far as i know, any of these components are all the same.

 

Yeah see that is the problem though. It works fine as designed. But adding a remote unlock/lock ability so all four doors work from the fob requires adding an actuator into the driver door. Electrically it is a snap. I just need to know how to physically connect it. It would be really really nice if they had made the driver door with an unused actuator mount point similar to the rear left door but just not put an actuator in there. That would make my job very easy. Sometimes they do this during design for flexibility of manufacture and easily changing options. Thus a need for an illustration.

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Ok, i see, you are using a remote fob.

 

I have this idea that the dealer installed keyless remote found in 2nd gen subarus should retrofit in ea82's since the part that plugs in-line with the ign switch is the same plug, and the rest of it splices into the body harness. This way you are using subaru parts and you can find them easily.

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