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Finally, graduated to the newer gen subs


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13 replies to this topic

#1 TRAVIS75

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 07:52 PM

Well, for many years I've been posting in the older subaru forum, I've had 4 89 wagons, both gl and dl. I finally moved up in the world by acquiring a 97 impreza 2 door coupe at the auction at the wrecking yard I work at, not my dream subaru, but it is nearly a decade newer than any others I've ever had, and never had a 2.2.

 

I bid on it got it for 525, I only bid on it because it was a DUI impound (at least I knew it was a runner)

 

Here is the problem I am having. It has what appears to be an aftermarket alarm system. But no key fab for disarming it. I have a feeling that is why it won't start with just turning the key. I know nothing about alarms. So I cut the wires to the extremely loud siren under the hood (scared the bejesus out of me when I put a battery in and it went off about 10 inches from my ear), This allowed me to turn the key to the run position and use a screwdriver to jump between the main battery stud on silenoid and the ignition switch terminal on the silenoid. This resulted in it starting.

 

I have to rethink it being an aftermarket alarm, I can hear a constant clicking under the dash and when I crawl and twist myself under there and the clicking is coming from the keyless entry module. The only key fab that I have found in the car the buttons are really worn but it looks like it says lock and unlock, however, neither button does anything when I push them.

 

When I do get the car started it only idled for about 2 minutes and died, every time I start it, it won't stay running unless I give it throttle, and only if I don't rev it up above about 2000 rpms, at which time it starts to spit and sputter and I can smell what I can only describe as "rotten egg smell" under the hood.

 

First experience as I stated before with the newer generation of sub's. Any insight would be helpful, as well.

 

Also any general opinions on this particular model or motor, strengths, weaknesses, durability etc etc.

 

Thanks in advance



#2 Mechanical_misfit

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:03 PM

un-hook the battery, put the key in the ignition, turn it to run, hook up your battery, and that should get the alarm to quit bugging out on you. I had a 98 Imp that did the same thing and that solved my problem. I think my 98 outback also did the same thing if the battery died. 



#3 TRAVIS75

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:16 PM

Oh lord I will love it if thats simple. If that is the case, how do I go about keeping it from going of in the future? Or will it just not re arm itself unless it loses battery power?



#4 crazyman03

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 09:12 PM

well.. there's a couple things you can do. 

 

to fix the (thought) of the alarm not starting the car, pop the knee panel from under the steering wheel and find your ignition harness. on a '97 Impreza its probably 4 *thick* gauged connector with (and i'm only saying the colors for reference, actual colors could be different) Black/Yellow, Blue/Red, Red/Yellow and a Red wire - again, wires will be thick in gauge.. probably a 8 or 10 gauge. Look at the lower part of the wires (going down towards the brake not up towards the key) and see if there are any "Wire Taps" or cut/Soldered connections. If there is a "immobilizer" installed, you'll likely find a break in the "Blue/Red" wire. 

 

If you do find a break in the wire diverting it to the alarm box, simply remove the diversion and essentially reconnect the "Blue/Red" wires directly back to each other again. (again only mentioning the colors as a reference, it should be right but who knows right?)

 

 

My Reference:

Black/Yellow - Constant +12 volt to key

Blue/Red - Starter Position, This will see the above constant +12v when key is in that position

Red - Ignition Position, This will see the above constant +12v when key is in that position

Red/Yellow - Accessory position, This will see the above constant +12v when key is in that position

 

 

if you do decide to "yank" the alarm out, you *could* unplug the harness from the alarm module and secure the wires under the dash, it wont re-arm if there isn't an alarm module right? You will AT LEAST have to check on the crank wire. By default, IF there is an immobilizer  the system will have the crank wire disabled to prevent someone hotwiring the car after shutting up the alarm ;-)

 

Now, if its a "Subaru" immobilizer, if its after market, it should have the same concept.. crank wire and such. just pop your head under there and see first ;-)

 

 

-Justin


Edited by crazyman03, 21 February 2013 - 09:20 PM.


#5 crazyman03

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 09:23 PM

to add: now, if you wanted to use said alarm.. if it is after market. look at the alarm module and get a product/model number and i can probably find you a remote for it and instructions on how to "pair" the remote to your alarm :-D

 

 

-Justin



#6 89Ru

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 09:51 PM

some keyless entry modules have a 'programming switch' wired in near the box.

open driver door

turn the ignition to on

push button

alarm should silence, clicking relays should stop.

at least this is how mine works 



#7 TRAVIS75

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 12:26 PM

Well when I looked under the dash, the module that was "clicking" was in fact on OEM subaru keyless entry module, said Subaru right on it.

Upside is, when I did the disconnect of the battery and turn the key to the run position and then reconnect the battery, it fired right up. I will say that when I was walking out to do this, in the back of my mind I won't lie, I was thinking there was no way in hell was it going to be that simple. But it was. However, like I feared, when I went back out 30 minutes later, it was the same thing, and had to go through that same process. If I shut it of and then just try and restart it right away, it works, but not if I leave it for an extended period of time.



#8 ocei77

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 02:26 PM

There should be a toggle switch or push button under the edge of trim by left knee.

See: http://www.cars101.com/ and go to programming remote secttion (even tho' you don't have have one) and that will work until you disconnect the battery again.

 

O.



#9 TRAVIS75

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 03:15 PM

Okay, I'm glad I took the easy route 1st, wen to the link that ocei77 gave. Took a little bit to locate the exact thread on the site. But once I found it, it was exactly what I needed. The condition of my remote left it looking very little like what it was supposed to. On the face, the subaru emblem was gone, and as I said before, you couldn't read the lock and unlock on it either. About all I could make out on the back was the fact it said USA (which is what initally led me to believe it was perhaps an aftermarket alarm). So I put a new battery in it and it worked. I thank you all, and so does my wife.

 

I have another question, and I may post it as a different post, I will just see what I get for responses. It didn't do this prior to me getting it started the correct way. But now that it is, when I first start it, a/t temp light flashes a number of times, and then stays off. I don't notice any problems with the tranny, as far as slippage or smell anything hot. Any ideas or is it normal?



#10 ocei77

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 04:21 PM

Part of the self check. About 4 or 5 times.

 If it flashes 16 times. Then there is a some fault.,

 

O.



#11 TRAVIS75

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 08:23 PM

Good to know, and thanks for that link



#12 chaz345

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 01:51 PM

It didn't do this prior to me getting it started the correct way. But now that it is, when I first start it, a/t temp light flashes a number of times, and then stays off. I don't notice any problems with the tranny, as far as slippage or smell anything hot. Any ideas or is it normal?

If it's flashing 16 times and there's no other issues with the transmission slippin or shifting wierd, it's likley something with the AWD system usually the duty c solenoid. When driving slowly on dry pavement with the steering wheel turned sharply, is there any binding or "scrubbing"?

#13 TRAVIS75

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 12:39 PM

Good call chaz...I actually sat and counted the number of blinks, and sure enough it is 16 flashes. And a perfect description of what it does, when driving slow on the pavement there is what I would describe as a "binding". I was actually going to start a new topic on the flashes, and the binding, not knowing that they were related.

 

So what it the duty c solenoids function, where is it located are the available new or aftermarket, and big question, does anyone have a pic so I know what i'm looking for?



#14 TRAVIS75

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 01:39 PM

Well I did a little research, it would appear to be beyond the realm of my abilities to replace that. What if any are the consequences of not replacing it? Kind of a tight budget or I would just have a tranny shop do it.






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