Last June, I wrote up this thread on a dry-run wheel bearing replacement that ultimately ended up being a real wheel bearing replacement. That was for the driver side front wheel bearing on a 1996 Legacy L sedan.
Well, on the same day that the car crossed over 200,000 miles on the odometer, it provided a new challenge.
It started with an ABS light coming on along with some front end vibration at highway speeds. This didn't seem like that big of a deal until the next morning when the passenger side wheel started to make horrible grinding noises.
I decided I should jack up the car and see what was going on.....I had already mentally prepared myself that a wheel bearing replacement was imminent. Both front bearings had been done by a shop that I STILL regret taking it to.
The axle nut fell on the ground as I took the wheel cover off the car. Further removal of the knuckle/hub assembly revealed what I already knew was the case......the bearing had been destroyed and the hub was simply banging around inside the knuckle housing. It was so floppy that the brake rotor was grinding on the brake caliper bracket - rotor is toast. The ABS light came on because the tolerance of the ABS tone ring on the hub was so out of whack from the sensor.
So off to the junkyard in the morning.
The first potential donor car did not have ABS - of course I only noticed that AFTER spending 20 minutes getting the rusted mess off the car. Note in the photo below that the hub does not have the ABS tone ring.
The second car (shown below) was the correct match with the added bonus only rust belt operation can provide. Unfortunately after pulling the CV out, I found that this wheel hub was totally destroyed. I did manage to pick up a new-ish brake rotor since that needs replacing anyway.
The third car was an older 1994 Legacy wagon. This turned out to have a good knuckle/hub assembly and was the one that came home with me (after two hours of "practicing" removing wheel knuckles from 3 different cars at the junkyard).
The donor knuckle/hub assembly has a very different brake dust shield, but the parts are identical between the 94 and the 96. (back to 92 as demonstrated on the driver side bearing change).
I drove out the hub from the backside with a socket and a hammer - no slide hammer this time. It cleaned up pretty nicely and I lightly polished the hub shaft.
And I used an air chisel to drive the outside inner race from the hub using the same technique as last time.
I have a new bearing, but I still need seals from the Subaru dealer. The O'reily's and Carquests around here keep giving the wrong inner seal - the correct seal has a taller lip than they provide.
Next up, cleaning up the parts and pressing out the bearing race from the knuckle with the Harbor Freight puller kit #66829.
Edited by JPX, 27 February 2013 - 11:37 AM.