13 replies to this topic

[TRAVIS75]

Going to open a new topic since my previous one started of as a question about security system and gradually made to different topics, and kind of off kilter from where it all started.

 

What I've got is 16 flashes of my automatic trans cooler light (97 impreza coupe AWD), It was pointed out that this is most likely due to I believe it was called the c duty silenoid. Which after doing some research, appears to be beyond my mechanical ability to change myself. So I checked with a local shop here in town and he said he had done one a couple months ago. And as a test to see if it was the silenoid or not, he put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger side up against the fire wall. He described this as a way to disable that silenoid and basically make run just in FWD.

 

I did this, and you can still feel a binding when turning slowly on the pavement. So either thats not really whats supposed to happen when you put a fuse in their. Or I have a different problem is my guess. And yes it does still flash 16 times with the fuse in the FWD fuse holder.

 

Any thoughts?

[grossgary]

if it doesn't go to FWD mode then the Duty C solenoid is not working properly.

did the FWD light come on in the instrument cluster/dash?

 

if you have a two piece driveshaft you can remove the rear half and it'll be FWD until you get it fixed. you can run it indefinitely like that too if you need to buy yourself some time.

[TRAVIS75]

I must have mis understood what the mechanic was saying. I thought putting the fuse in would basically disable that silenoid, as in, with that silenoid malfunctioning when I put that fuse in, it would disable the malfunctioning silenoid. And no I don't see a FWD light come on anywhere on the dash.

 

I haven't checked out the driveline, I just picked this up at our auction last week, and I haven't had a chance to really look it over. I'm amazed at how quick this car is compared to the 2 89 wagons I have. 218,000 miles on it but it would blow the doors off my other subs.

[Suzam]

If you shine a flashlight to the dash in the dark you should be able to see where the FWD light is located. I also believe it should light up with all the other dash lights when you first turn the key on.

 

The Fuse just supplies full current to the duty c, so if it is bad there is the possibility the fuse won't stop it from binding.

[CNY_Dave]

On my '03 4EAT:

 

If the trans light is flashing because I disconnect the wire to the transfer solenoid (Duty C solenoid), the TCU senses this, flashes the AT Temp light, and inserting the FWD fuse will not make the FWD fuse light up.

 

In this state, the AT light does not flash unless the engine is running, key on is not sufficient.

 

You can pull the actual trans codes on that year, can't you? There's a thread somewhere with the magic sequence.

[CNY_Dave]

Here it is:

 

http://www.subaruout...codes-dtcs.html

[chaz345]

Going to open a new topic since my previous one started of as a question about security system and gradually made to different topics, and kind of off kilter from where it all started.
 
What I've got is 16 flashes of my automatic trans cooler light (97 impreza coupe AWD), It was pointed out that this is most likely due to I believe it was called the c duty silenoid. Which after doing some research, appears to be beyond my mechanical ability to change myself. So I checked with a local shop here in town and he said he had done one a couple months ago. And as a test to see if it was the silenoid or not, he put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger side up against the fire wall. He described this as a way to disable that silenoid and basically make run just in FWD.
 
I did this, and you can still feel a binding when turning slowly on the pavement. So either thats not really whats supposed to happen when you put a fuse in their. Or I have a different problem is my guess. And yes it does still flash 16 times with the fuse in the FWD fuse holder.
 
Any thoughts?

My thought is that your mechanic is either communicating to you unclearly or doesn't know what he's talking about. The AWD system on these beasts is such that the more current that there is going to the duty c solenoid, the less power there is transmitted to the rear wheels. So if the Duty C solenoid is bad, the FWD fuse isn't going to change anything. Installing a FWD fuse doesn't disable the Duty C, it energizes it fully. It disables(or renders irrelevant) the rest of the system that decides how much power to send to the rear wheels. So putting in the fuse with no change essentially just told you that it is most likely the Duty C solenoid that is the problem.

Changing the Duty C really isn't all that involved. Drop the driveshaft, drain the tranny, pull the tail section off the tranny, replace solenoid and reverse the process. Haynes Manual will tell you exactly step by step all you need to know. I'd say that a lift is almost essential though.That or some good ramps that are at least a foot tall and a dry area to work. Doing that job with the car on the ground is a major pain.

[TRAVIS75]

Before I go to the link CNY provided, I just want to answer one of the questions, I haven't shown a flashlight on the dash to see if there is a FWD light and I dont see one, nor does one show up just when I turn the key on.

[TRAVIS75]

Well I have the fortune of working for a wrecking yard, so I've got a lift available. What I had stumbled across when looking for info previously on how to replace it, there was a guy who was talking about the clutch packs being taken out, and how he didn't get them put back in the correct order, and a bunch of other stuff that perhaps made it seem more daunting than it is.

 

I wouldn't have a problem with swapping the whole tranny (except for the expense of purchasing one). But the fear of pulling the rear of the tranny and having crap pop loose and having springs flying every where is what I am intimidated by.

 

I've done engine and tranny replacements previously on my 2 other subarus (both 89's one is a gl and one is a dl, both wagons) not too hard especially after doing it a couple times.

 

However those are ea82's and I've never done anything on an ej22.

Got any recomendations on where to get a silenoid, I'm sure there are plenty available through various places, but I would rather put a quality one in if I'm going to brave trying to do this on my own. Approximate cost would be great too.

[johnceggleston]

this may be a dealer only part. you can get it from an online deasler for less.

 

tracking down the part number may be challenging. try http://opposedforces.com/parts

 

FYI: if the duty c is faulty or bad, the FWD will not light up when you put in the fuse.

[CNY_Dave]

this may be a dealer only part. you can get it from an online deasler for less.

 

tracking down the part number may be challenging. try http://opposedforces.com/parts

 

FYI: if the duty c is faulty or bad, the FWD will not light up when you put in the fuse.

 

I would amend that to say if the duty- C is Detectably bad- that is, short or open. If it were merely stuck (if such can happen), the TCU would not be able to tell.

[ivans imports]

the fwd fuse powers the soilinod to open the valve a open solinoid dumps the preshure giving you fwd a unpowerd soiliniod closes the curcuit and forces the fliud thru the awd curcuit a no fwd light indacates no power to trans curciut check trans fuse and trans grounds and main intake ground and trans electrical conectors

[mikec03]

First, the condition that's causing the "binding" is called torque bind and is extremely common on old subarus.  The plates in the transfer case are not slipping like they are supposed to.

 

As the previous posters have said, putting the FWD fuse in should have lighted a light on the dash, and put your car into front wheel drive.  To reiterate, it does this by energizing the Duty C solinoid.  Since your car still has torque bind and the dash light didn't light, your Duty C solinoid is most likely shot.

 

I have priced the cost of replacing the Duty C solinoid and it costs about $300 at an indy shop.  Be aware, however, after replacing the Duty C solinoid, you may still have the torque bind. 

 

 

[grossgary]

once you've diagnosed it, start another topic more specific..."How to replace the Duty C solenoid" or something instead of the ambiguous "FWD Fuse"...many people probably ignored this thread thinking it would say "will i get better gas mileage with it?"

 

get some feedback from folks that have done it - it is intimidating and you want to get it right but with enough help you'll get it.  i think there's some good threads about replacing it - i forwarded them to a friend that needed to do it but it was a year or two ago so i dont' recall specifics.  this would be a good topic for a write up.