Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Need some expert opinions

ej22 smoke valve seals oil burning

  • Please log in to reply
60 replies to this topic

#26 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 05 March 2013 - 12:24 AM

I need to change the thermo now that I think about it. I totally forgot to do this when I had the chance.



#27 1 Lucky Texan

1 Lucky Texan

    I read a lot about Subarus

  • Members
  • 4,278 posts
  • Texas

Posted 05 March 2013 - 08:39 AM

make sure to get the Stant Xacstat or the soob-spec. Wix or an OEM t'stat.

 

Thermostats%204%20sm.jpg



#28 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 05 March 2013 - 10:20 AM

Do I need to drain my radiator to replace the tstat on an ej22?



#29 ivans imports

ivans imports

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 2,902 posts
  • lumby bc canada

Posted 05 March 2013 - 10:39 AM

rings and pistons run with oil cap off and look for blowby when reved and comp test check for low hole



#30 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 05 March 2013 - 11:27 AM

anyone have any further suggestions? Getting a comp and leakdown test done today. Will post results



#31 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 06 March 2013 - 01:25 AM

So I've got a really awesome update! Took my car for a drive. It was stuttering in first gear, the volts went from 14 to 18, and after I turned it off and tried to start it again, nothing happened. Took a meter to some wires and found out that there is no power from the key to the starter...what happened !?!?

#32 Rooster2

Rooster2

    Subaru Master

  • Members
  • 3,341 posts
  • Indianapolis

Posted 06 March 2013 - 09:33 AM

So I've got a really awesome update! Took my car for a drive. It was stuttering in first gear, the volts went from 14 to 18, and after I turned it off and tried to start it again, nothing happened. Took a meter to some wires and found out that there is no power from the key to the starter...what happened !?!?

dead battery or bad alternator?



#33 88wacaroo

88wacaroo

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 235 posts
  • Denver,Co.

Posted 06 March 2013 - 10:31 AM

Corroded batt.terminals? Bad Batt.cable?



#34 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:17 PM

Neither. Battery has power. Alt is good. There is no power going from the key to the starter. So it is somewhere behind the firewall....



#35 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 7,877 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 10 March 2013 - 08:42 AM

Stock Subaru thermostats are 170 degree so not much difference there.

Ej22 oil pressure spec is 10 psi or more at hot idle, 700 rpm. Bypass pressure spec is 70 psi, so yes it will read up around 60-70 psi when cold. Not sure what kind of gauge you have, but very few can accurately read that low. Even factory gauges can have a hard time, which is mostly why Subaru doesn't put an actual gauge in the dash.

Valve seals are the most likely cause for blue smoke on deceleration. But if it is running rich the rings could have been wiped and cause a similar issue.
You say it's a rebuild, do you know who rebuilt it? Any paperwork or records of what was replaced during this "rebuild"?

Edited by Fairtax4me, 10 March 2013 - 08:44 AM.


#36 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 8,517 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 10 March 2013 - 11:21 AM

Valve stem seals.

Is that engine still running the reflashed ECU?

#37 Cougar

Cougar

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 6,319 posts
  • Anchorage

Posted 10 March 2013 - 11:39 AM

So I've got a really awesome update! Took my car for a drive. It was stuttering in first gear, the volts went from 14 to 18, and after I turned it off and tried to start it again, nothing happened. Took a meter to some wires and found out that there is no power from the key to the starter...what happened !?!?

If you are sure that the voltage got to 18 volts then you need to check your fuses. You may have blown one out due to the high voltage output and it may supply power to the starter solenoid. You should also think about replacing your alternator as the voltage regulator has a problem. You should never see voltage that high as it can damage a number of things in the car.



#38 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 11 March 2013 - 02:41 PM

So I got the car running again by repairing some of the shoddy workmanship with the ECU. However, now my car does not want to idle(it just dies with the clutch in or in neutral at a stand still) and when I am in gear and moving, it stutters horribly. Any ideas? I am honestly just looking at dropping in another engine and cleaning up the ECU harness. 



#39 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 7,877 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 11 March 2013 - 03:00 PM

How about a year and model so we know what you're working with?
What "shoddy workmanship" did you repair?

Shuddering/ shaking at low rpm is usually because its misfiring. Could be due to an unmetered air leak, or vacuum leak. Could be spark plug related (most common if plugs are old) or incorrect cam timing.

#40 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 11 March 2013 - 04:55 PM

92 EJ22 ECU, 95 EJ22 block.

No vacuum leak. I re-did the wiring from the ignition to the starter. Not sure why it happened all of a sudden. Could be a fouled spark plug though as I think I might be running rich. Plus as you know, it is burning a ton of oil.



#41 Cougar

Cougar

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 6,319 posts
  • Anchorage

Posted 12 March 2013 - 06:37 PM

If there is signs the engine is flooding then check the CTS sensor for the ECU and make sure it is working ok. If the ECU thinks the engine is cold when it really isn't the fuel mixture will be too rich. Make sure the MAF and TPS are working ok also. Another possible issue is the fuel pressure regulator is applying too much pressure to the fuel for the injectors.



#42 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:12 PM

What confuses me is that this problem happened suddenly. The car was fine one minute and the next it does this. I am done looking for the problem. Taking it to Superior Soob tomorrow and having Rick rip the old one out and toss a new one in. Hopefully he can get the harness cleaned up while he is at it.



#43 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 17 March 2013 - 08:37 PM

Ok got the car running again. It is still burning oil so I am going to have GD swap out the block and clean up the wiring. In the mean time can someone tell me what this sensor is? It has two wires that aren't used and there are two wires from the pigtail next to it. When I touch any of the wires together it either dies or increases idle. It just right below the pcv valve. Also, what is the port just behind the passenger side head close to where the transmission mates up? It is right below the sensor I referenced. As you can see in the picture it is wide open.
IMG_0185_zps60f5b99d.jpg

Edited by Haight, 17 March 2013 - 08:39 PM.


#44 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 8,517 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 17 March 2013 - 09:50 PM

That's the IAC. 

 

Someone has cut wires to it.  Perhaps in an attempt to control idle?

 

I tapped in to those wires to control idle on my wheeler.  Disconneted, the IAC is about half open.

 

If the hoses to that are routed wrong you can suck a ton of oil through the intake.  Espescially with the Crank vent down there WIDE OPEN!!!

 

I am pretty sure between those 2 things you are sucking oil through the PCV system, and you've got a horrible unmetered air leak with that crank vent open.  That is suppose to T into a port from the intake, and then go to the PCV.  the port on the intake tube is probably open too.

 

Rick will correct it.


Edited by Gloyale, 17 March 2013 - 09:52 PM.


#45 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:14 PM

That's the IAC. 
 
Someone has cut wires to it.  Perhaps in an attempt to control idle?
 
I tapped in to those wires to control idle on my wheeler.  Disconneted, the IAC is about half open.
 
If the hoses to that are routed wrong you can suck a ton of oil through the intake.  Espescially with the Crank vent down there WIDE OPEN!!!
 
I am pretty sure between those 2 things you are sucking oil through the PCV system, and you've got a horrible unmetered air leak with that crank vent open.  That is suppose to T into a port from the intake, and then go to the PCV.  the port on the intake tube is probably open too.
 
Rick will correct it.

Could you possibly link me to a picture of the proper intake setup? With the t and pcv routing?

#46 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 7,877 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:31 PM

The PCV hose to the block is just gone. That big port in the top is supposed to be the "suction" side of the crankcase breather system. That Would explain the oil smell and smoke you mentioned earlier in the thread.

Someone has routed the PCV line incorrectly, it looks like it is looped over to the intake tube and it should be going to that port on the block. It also looks like heater hose, which will not hold up to the oil vapor from the breather system. It needs to be Emmisions hose.

The wires to to the idle air control as already stated. Without those the ECU has no control over idle speed, which would explain the poor idle condition.

#47 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 17 March 2013 - 11:21 PM

I'll take a picture in the morning of what the intake and pcv setup looks like. What's odd is that my idle is really smooth now. It doesn't seem like there is anything wrong with it. I think my best option is to have Rick rip it all out and do it over again right.

#48 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 8,517 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:26 AM

I don't think you need to rip it all out.  Repair the IAC connector and hook up hte PCV tubes properly, and all should be good.

 

It might be nice to clean up some of the other wiring, but if it's working.......no need to disable the whole car for a few simple fixes.



#49 Haight

Haight

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 254 posts
  • Seaside, OR

Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:40 AM

I don't see any where on the intake routing that has a missing port. Is something here routed wrong? Where should the pcv hose connect?
IMG_0101_zps3f3f832d.jpg


IMG_0102_zps01eca39f.jpg


IMG_0100_zpsd10c76d6.jpg

Edited by Haight, 18 March 2013 - 11:40 AM.


#50 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 7,877 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 18 March 2013 - 01:46 PM

Yes it's routed incorrectly. The hose from the PCV should be going to the port on the block. The hoses from the valve covers should lead into the intake tubing behind the MAF sensor. There may be a T or other port on the bottom of the intake tube that has been plugged off.

As it is currently routed the engine is pulling in unmetered air (it has not been through the MAF sensor) through the PCV system.
That's hurting performance and fuel economy because the MAF sensor is not reading the correct amount of air that the engine is consuming.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: ej22, smoke, valve, seals, oil, burning

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users