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1979 Brat


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31 replies to this topic

#1 stewartkb

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 06:36 PM

Here is the thread I said I'd start on this 79. Picked it up yesterday in Idaho for $500, plus another $300 in gas. Runs rough, but it runs. Needs A LOT of love, not sure where to even start. Here's some pictures to help. Feel free to comment/suggest/offer your services.

 

Few things you may notice ... small "attached" heater with cord running into dash ... steering wheel blinkers on wrong side ... switch panel, no radio, bed cover snaps all around the outside of the bed...What else do you see?


Edited by stewartkb, 06 February 2015 - 03:02 PM.


#2 stewartkb

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:30 PM

Just discovered what 2 of the 3 switches on the panel control ...

 

1) Engine fan

2) External heater

3) Still Unknown



#3 stewartkb

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:59 PM

Quick video:


Edited by stewartkb, 12 March 2013 - 09:00 PM.


#4 Brock Samson

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 09:20 PM

I love all the gerry rigging.  and the dog is pretty sweet too!



#5 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 10:25 PM

Nice Project! ... Could I Ask if that is a Factory Sunroof?

 

Kind Regards.



#6 Kevint143

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 10:29 PM

Wow! Looks Like this will be a fun project.



#7 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 10:55 PM

Nice proyect and it's rust free.

 

Loyale 2.7 Turbo a question from someone outside the US. The Charcoal canister (Evap canister) came on first gen Brats worldwide or just the US?



#8 88wacaroo

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 01:23 AM

YEP!! It"s a 1600 Sing.Rang.4x... :) It"s A Keeper!!! NOT TO BAD...Fairly straight-Big Plus is All the Lenses Are Good-Thats 1/2 the battle,Right ON for saving it :headbang:  :drunk: Cheers!!!  OH Yea The dog Likes it!!!


Edited by 88wacaroo, 13 March 2013 - 01:24 AM.


#9 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 02:14 AM

Yup looks like a little work cut out for ya. But the pooch likes it already, and that's all that really matters. Ha, have fun with this man!  Any ideas for paint yet?



#10 stewartkb

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 03:07 AM

Yeah I think it should clean up nice. Definitely going to have to put some long hours into it .. body, mechanical, interior.. Thinking I'm going to upgrade this sucker, not going to keep it completely stock. First though I need to find the space and tools to work on it to that extent.

I haven't even thought of a color for it. Might do a few mock ups in photoshop. Could go with the cool rally blue, keep it Subaru, or go completely wack with it lol.

I didn't expect to get it honestly, so I'm all in for hearing ideas to transform it.

I'm not positive on the sunroof. It almost seems aftermarket to me, but maybe someone here knows? Ha, yeah the dog is all about it which is good news!

Edited by stewartkb, 13 March 2013 - 03:11 AM.


#11 O.C.D.

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 10:34 AM

Well, you can admit you have some work but in general that is not a bad Brat!  And for $500 I think you did well.  I paid $400 for mine and it was way worse.

 

As for long hours, yes, you are in for them, lol.  But enjoy it.  These old Subies are fun to work on.

 

Don't know what you are looking to do but my favorite mod has been the 6-lug swap and new wheels/low pro tires.



#12 stewartkb

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:31 PM

The 6 lug swap sounds nice. How did that go?

 

Checked the fluids on it today ... no coolant, low transmission, low engine oil. Explains why it runs rough.

 

Went to the auto parts store and picked up some goodies.

 

- Oil & filter

 

8556725310_c808b4b7dd_z.jpg

 

8555613135_d8164e8faf_z.jpg

 

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- Air filter

 

8556722762_67cbbd43a7_z.jpg

 

 

Also grabbed a fuel filter and swapped it. I'm a little concerned with the fuel tank, look at the old filter.

 

8555611327_2e06d2c680_z.jpg

 

 

The engine oil was also pretty nasty dark, it had a slight tint of red in it, which can't be good? Anyways, probably going to have to go through a few fuel filters to see what the outcome is as I can't get it to idle very long. I believe the gas tank has a drain plug so I'm going to attack that tomorrow. More to come...


Edited by stewartkb, 13 March 2013 - 11:34 PM.


#13 O.C.D.

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 09:50 AM

Don't remember where but here is what I did with the swap and yes, I love it.

 

http://www.ultimates...l/#entry1112730

 

Where did you locate that filter?  Was that in the bed panels, under the bed or the engine bay?



#14 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 11:17 AM

Based on my own experience.....before putting the new fuel filter, take a look at the gas tank by removing the rubber gas line form the tank, drain some fuel....check for mud, sand, metal chips and especially water.....had to take my fuel pump apart.

 

Everything was working fine until I drove the Brat to one of those underground parking lots, that when I knew my gas tank was dirty.



#15 stewartkb

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 12:25 PM

O.C.D. that filter is in the engine compartment. If you have the hood open and look to the far left corner it's by the charcoal canister. There will be a line connected to it coming from your fuel tank, and the other end will go to your fuel pump.

 

Haha, yeah Legourde, I should have done that in the first place. I'll post what I find later today.


Edited by stewartkb, 14 March 2013 - 12:28 PM.


#16 stewartkb

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 12:36 AM

Got quite a bit done today... Pulled the seats, carpet and old insulation. Also pulled the hood and cowl. Found out there is a little nasty cancer in the floor board. Mainly on the drivers side.

 

 

8560432695_fe07fc65cb_z.jpg

 

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Took the hood & cowl off.

 

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Ran into some nasty issues with the hood latches. No wonder the hood flew up on the previous owner.

 

Drivers side

8560435953_0eebffc9ae_z.jpg

 

Passenger side

8560437505_8a2a9b1492_z.jpg

 

 

Rust in drivers side floor board.

 

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Cleaned up a bit more before calling it a day.

 

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Found some classics under the old carpet... along with the accelerator pedal.

 

8560440627_a07903b557_z.jpg

 

 

Lastly, started it...got it to idle finally. However there is a MASSIVE oil leak coming from this... I believe it is the oil pressure switch? Correct me if I'm wrong please.

 

8561563468_ea9380b411_z.jpg

 

8561564510_74a367edbe_z.jpg



#17 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:03 PM

It's the oil pressure switch.

 

Looks like you should put plastic bags on the carb, the dist and alternator, use an orange based dregreaser all around the engine and rinse with clear water after a few minutes.

 

Take the plastic bags off, start the engine, let it IDLE for a few minutes, turn off the engine and check where the leak is coming from.

 

Looking good  :popcorn: 



#18 stewartkb

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 10:24 PM

Thank you for clarifying that.

 

I took your word and bought some degreaser and a new oil pressure switch. I looked everywhere for the orange/citrus based stuff, but no one had it. I settled for the next best thing I could find besides the harsh stuff.

 

8563097479_3cc96dffc0_z.jpg

 

Weather wasn't so nice today and the rain stopped any real progress. I spent a good hour though trying to get the old switch off before having to call it a night... What's the trick lol?



#19 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 11:29 PM

It's always a good idea to keep the area you're working on, as clean as possible. In this case, it's a good idea to remove all that gunk, varnish and soil that's around the switch.

 

1. Remember once you take the faulty switch out, the oil passage is exposed and all that dirt could go inside if the area has not been cleaned before.

 

2. Remove the oil pressure switch cable if it's still connected.

 

3. You'll need a socket wrench (22" if I'm not mistaken).....with patience and in a counterclockwise motion take the faulty switch from the engine.

 

4. In my case I put a drop of new motor oil to the thread on the new oil pressure switch before instalation.

 

5. Tight by hand first, clockwise, then use the socket wrench to finish the job. No info on necessary torque. Just don't use superhuman strength. :grin:

 

6. Clean the cable and inside the tip that's connected to the new switch and make the connection.

 

7. Check oil level on the engine. Start the engine, the "Oil" light in the instrument panel should come on for a few second and then come off.

 

8. Let engine idle for a few seconds and then turn off.

 

9. Check for leaks.

 

10. Enjoy  :headbang:

 

 

Note: If the faulty switch seems to be frozen, it's not because is over tight, most likely is due to the time is been sitting in that area.....patience, it will come out.



#20 O.C.D.

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:41 AM

Argh - part number for the switch please.  Was going OEM but never found the aftermarket number.

 

Thanks.



#21 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 04:03 PM

Number used for Japan spec EA71 Brats in Dominican Republic OEM 829956100.



#22 stewartkb

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 01:27 AM

I'll get the part number for you tomorrow. It's from Napa.

 

FINALLY got the sucker out. It's a 24mm socket, only took me this long to figure it out. I even bought an oil switch socket specially made and it still didn't fit! However it fits the new one, so I guess I'll keep it.

 

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New switch in.

 

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Light now works!

 

8570267783_0302c5f321_z.jpg
 

 

Also, the leak is gone. Another check off the list.


Edited by stewartkb, 19 March 2013 - 01:32 AM.


#23 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 10:48 AM

Great!!!!...so it was 24mm, my bad.

A special socket?, was the difference?

#24 stewartkb

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 07:29 PM

Brand is Napa Proformer

Part # OP6612SB

 

It's all good lol. The special socket has a different set of grooves inside it, but nothing a regular one can't handle.

 

Took off the front tires today. Going to need new rotors and pads. Might just go new calipers while I'm down there. Have torn CVJ boots, probably should replace both sides entirely. Rock Auto has CV Half Shaft Assembly running as low as 46$ a side. Anyone know if they are the correct ones listed for the Brat?

 

Also, the driver's side rotor was spinning while I had it running, in neutral. Any reason for this?


Edited by stewartkb, 19 March 2013 - 08:00 PM.


#25 Legourde_Nux

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 08:17 PM

The joys of hurting your knuckles for what you love.

 

1. Rotors, you can either get new ones or have them cut in order to eliminate any bends or grooves.....min thickness 8.4 mm

 

2. CV joints, take both axle drive assemblies and check the them completely. You can remove the axle drive assembly by removing a pin that keeps the back joint attached to the transmission.

 

3. Rotor, it spins in neutral because the inner grooves of the Disc hub are in bad shape......happened to me once.

 

 

Source: My good ol' Chilton handbook and 20 years of ownership.






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