kn33 Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Ok, solved my blinking AT temp light, the damn TPS wasn't connected, the damn rubber o-ring was sticky and rolled up as I put on the connector, then popped it back off when I wasn't looking. SOB. put a little grease on her and blammo, Slid right in, no more shifting problems. Now I've got an engine that runs fairly well, but idles erratically and kinda sputters sometimes. reminds me of a vacuum leak, but I replaced all hoses. Error codes are 443 and 341, I'll check out the Purge valve in the morning, remember one of the hoses was on kinda cockeyed, maybe the flow is restricted. WTF is everything going wrong? car ran fine, just consumed a lot of oil. rebuilt her and now no love. any way to test the cam position sensor? anything else that could have made the car throw this code erroneously? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kn33 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) C'mon people, I know I posted late but Geeez. Things that can cause an error 341: loose sensor skipped timing loose cam sprocket bad sensor bad wiring bad ECU Anything else I should check while the sun's still up? Edited March 15, 2013 by kn33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) most likely electrical. given the work done, look for loose connector. blue clip under the intake manifold for the purge valve ,or, basically all the connectors. Insure no wires are cut/pinched. 341 could be a TB off a tooth. Edited March 15, 2013 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kn33 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) 341 could be a TB off a tooth. Honestly, that's what I'm leaning toward. The little guy inside (Mr. Rubenstein) wouldn't let me shell out the cash for a new tensioner because the old one held up to 66 LBS per the SFM, but it does have 176,000 Mi on it and probably needs to be replaced. SOB I'm sick of removing my belts and timing cover. already removed my tranny pan for naught, re-replaced my intake gaskets, etc..... I think I should mention that it SEEMED like it ran perfectly till it warmed up after about 5 minutes of driving. ( I also noted two other posts where the OP said they replaced the sensor and everything seemed fine till they drove a couple of miles, turned out to be the timing skipped a tooth) seems strange to me that it ran fine for any amount of time at all with the timing off Edited March 15, 2013 by kn33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kn33 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 One more question, it took about 3 times of running the car and clearing the purge valve code before the cam sensor code showed up, all the while running crappily is that a code that shows up immediately or takes several occurrences before throwing a MIL/code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) not sure which codes would be immediate , which would require some multiple occurrences. Since crank and cam sensors are responsible for ignition timing, injector timing, and TB 'health', all fairly critical functions - I'd expect they could be immediate - but I don't know that. maybe someone else will chime in. Edited March 15, 2013 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kn33 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 Ok, so you were totally wrong, TB didn't skip a tooth, it skipped 2!!! be installing a new tensioner in the morning, then off to work! Thanks for taking the time to help me troubleshoot Texan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Sprocket probably moved when you weren't looking, or there was slack in the belt and the sprocket was pulled out of time when the pin was pulled on the tensioner. P0341 is a 2 trip code. It has to have a present fault in two consecutive drive cycles to set that code. If you cleared the other code multiple times first the 341 may not have stored as a pending code until after the last reset. This code just means the ECU has detected an anomaly in the signal from the sensor. It's not quite within the correct range but the signal is still there. This code will set if the cam sensor signal and crank sensor signal are not in sync, which is usually due to incorrect timing on the drivers cam sprocket. If you had code p0340, which is a circuit code, that would indicate an electrical fault in the sensor or wiring that is immediately detectible by the ECU as either an open or short circuit, which should then immediately light the CEL and set a code. Check the electrical connector on the purge solenoid. Easy to leave that one unplugged or slightly loose since its kind of a PITA to get to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kn33 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) Sprocket probably moved when you weren't looking, or there was slack in the belt and the sprocket was pulled out of time when the pin was pulled on the tensioner. P0341 is a 2 trip code. It has to have a present fault in two consecutive drive cycles to set that code. If you cleared the other code multiple times first the 341 may not have stored as a pending code until after the last reset. This code just means the ECU has detected an anomaly in the signal from the sensor. It's not quite within the correct range but the signal is still there. This code will set if the cam sensor signal and crank sensor signal are not in sync, which is usually due to incorrect timing on the drivers cam sprocket. If you had code p0340, which is a circuit code, that would indicate an electrical fault in the sensor or wiring that is immediately detectible by the ECU as either an open or short circuit, which should then immediately light the CEL and set a code. Check the electrical connector on the purge solenoid. Easy to leave that one unplugged or slightly loose since its kind of a PITA to get to. Purge solenoid is fine, plugged in and whatnot, probably the timing setting that code off too, because of reduced manifold vacuum or something. it definitely skipped while driving, turned the motor over several times after releasing the tensioner to check. drove like a dream, then the wife goosed the pedal a little hard and blammo, rough idle, lack of power.... makes sense because neither code appeared till I pulled over to let the wife drive... Thanks a LOT for the additional info!!! Edited March 16, 2013 by kn33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) Yeah, blame it on the wife. If this has the new style tensioner they are known for being "soft" and they often jump right after a timing job. Best to replace them every time. The older style tensioners are a bit more robust but can still fail with age. Edited March 16, 2013 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) I have also read of a guide plate above the belt at the crank sprocket that needs to be adjusted to a mm or so? I know it's technically to prevent belt jumping should the car be towed in reverse while in gear - but , can't help wondering if it's adjusted correctly. I just forget which year those were added. Edited March 16, 2013 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kn33 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) tensioner replaced, timing set, codes cleared, drives like a brand new car!!!!!!!!! mine doesn't have a guide plate, seen them on the manual transmissions in the FSM, not sure if they use them on the auto's Edited March 16, 2013 by kn33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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