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Removing rear lateral link bolt/bushing/arm?


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13 replies to this topic

#1 grossgary

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 09:47 AM

can't align the rear due to seized bolt/bushing so I'm going to replace the rear lateral link arm and bolt.

 

assuming massive oxidation has rust-welded this thing together - quickest way to get this thing out without sawing for hours?

 

took this guy 4 hours, i'd like to avoid that:

http://www.subaruout...just-toe-2.html



#2 grossgary

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 10:14 AM

Also - i assume i should replace both bushings while it's apart - there's on on each end?



#3 torxxx

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 01:18 PM

I spray mine down with PB blaster days before I know I have to work on them.  Literally use a half a can per side of the car.  One trick I did find when I changed out my bent lateral bars on my SVX is leave EVERYTHING hooked up on the wheel side.  Take the lateral bar loose from the x-member and then rotate the lateral bar up and down.  it allows just the one bushing to pivot on the rusted bolt instead of trying to turn that foot long bolt through several rusted bushings and the knuckle. 

 

Where are you getting your bushings from and do you have a part number?  I need to get some ordered for my drivers side on the SVX, tired of that wheel wobbling



#4 grossgary

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 02:28 PM

I s

Where are you getting your bushings from and do you have a part number?  I need to get some ordered for my drivers side on the SVX, tired of that wheel wobbling

 

i  just ordered them from Subaru, $11 each or something. but SVX is different from the 2000+ face lifted legacy/outback platform so it'll be different.  mine has the bolt on wheel bearings, not the press in style like the SVX. rear suspension geometry and parts changed.



#5 Fairtax4me

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 08:19 PM

Got a sawz- all? Could make short work of that rusted bolt.
My first approach would be PB and brute force just to see if you can get it to budge loose. If not, sawzall.

#6 monstaru

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 08:54 PM

Buy another knuckle, from a yard.Make them do the work.I promise,If you have a stuck bolt.It is WAY worth it.

 

Then just cut yours off.

Sounds like a harsh reality, but man am I telling you.I am a very resourceful guy when it comes to certain things.And I had to buy a new knuckle the last time I dealt with a rusted bolt.

cheers



#7 grossgary

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:20 AM

Got a sawz- all? Could make short work of that rusted bolt.
My first approach would be PB and brute force just to see if you can get it to budge loose. If not, sawzall.

 

yes, but one guy took 4 hours and many blades because of the hardened steel?

i'll try soaking it and wrenching it first, hope I get lucky.

 

torch?  or would that compromise the crossmember?

 

Buy another knuckle, from a yard.Make them do the work.I promise,If you have a stuck bolt.It is WAY worth it.

 

Then just cut yours off.

Sounds like a harsh reality, but man am I telling you.I am a very resourceful guy when it comes to certain things.

 

this isn't the knuckle. what you're referring to is the older late 90's legacy/outbacks, that lower bolt is nuts.  the newer stuff doesn't have that, it's a different rear suspension configuration. similar approach though - ordered all new linkages, bolts, bushings, washers, etc, not going to try and salvage any of it.



#8 NorthWet

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:04 PM

I have no idea what room/clearances you have, but a cutoff disc (or sawzall blade) might work better than a toothed blade.  I had to gnaw off the head of a trailing-link bolt that way.



#9 grossgary

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 04:06 PM

i have cut off wheels/air cutoff tool.  they're small wheels, i should get a couple big ones to get up in there.



#10 Fairtax4me

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:12 AM

I would be tempted to use the blue wrench if not for the proximity to the fuel tank.
Only problem with cut-off wheels is there usually just isn't enough room. But if there is room to fit the tool and wheel that would be the fastest way.

#11 grossgary

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 01:37 PM

i've yet to ever use a torch for removing a bolt yet too, so i should stay away.



#12 89Ru

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 02:10 PM

dealer items for my '95 wagon

lateral link bolt 20540AA000

lateral link bushing (two needed) 20251AA000

 

Nut came off the LL bolt on mine after a long soak.

Rotate the LL bolt as much as you can before cutting to break up the rust.

Cutting the LL bolt will eat up sawzall blades and chew on the washer but for me was the easiest, don't have a cutoff wheel.  

For mine, the foreward bushing wasn't seized to the bolt, only the rear, so I cut the bolt just forward of the rear bushing, between the bushing and the knuckle.  I used a huge c-clamp plus some large sockets to press out the seized bolt and bushing.

Hammer out the remains of the bolt from the knuckle.

Press in new bushings using the c-clamp and socket method but grease them first.  Might have to press them in slightly too far and then back because they might deform a little.

Don't forget the washers when bolting it back up.



#13 Fairtax4me

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 04:42 PM

Thanks for the info but he's trying to replace the inner adjustment bolt on a 2002(?). Entirely different setup. Much more limited space to get tools into when working with the inner bolts.

#14 89Ru

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 01:55 PM

ah.  makes sense.  i know gg has done outer lateral link bolts before so I was sort of wondering.  never done an inner bolt, sounds like i don't want to try :)   outer bolt gave me enough trouble...but where there's a will there's a way. 






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