Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Posted 27 March 2013 - 09:31 PM
Posted 27 March 2013 - 09:37 PM
Posted 27 March 2013 - 11:42 PM
well, there may very well be damage from running the donut. Subaru AWD is very sensitive to certain tire problems.
But, perhaps if you post your city, someone here could at least suggest a mechanic that is more capable.
Posted 05 April 2013 - 11:33 PM
Posted 06 April 2013 - 10:09 AM
auto or manual trans?
how many miles?
engine, 2.5L (legacy L, brighton) or 3.0L (outback VDC or LL Bean) ?
if auto, yes, put the fuse in and see if the trouble goes away.
it should be in the corner of the fuse box under the hood, which is located in between the battery and the windshield washer bottle.
this is pretty easy to do. any fuse will work. there is usually a spare in the fuse box. the lid has a description of each fuse.
Posted 06 April 2013 - 10:32 AM
a easy way to confirm a bad front diff is to drop the oil and check the magnet for meatal if you take 1.5 liters of gear oil to any trany shop and ask them to change front diff oil and check for meatal debrie if clean is good bet trans is ok thiss shouldent cost very mutch $ of oil and 20 min labour. I whould be more inclined to blame a bad axle or wheel berring ect trans do not fail that often and is very apperant when they do you whould know. Non subaru techs working on subarus cerate greif for me and my customers dayly find a subaru specific tech. Because what they dont know will hurt you
Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:42 PM
And 1500 covered brake work pretty much.. 02 sensor.. clock spring.. stablinks? Insp/emission
Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:18 AM
have you checked the transmission fluid level? yellow dipstick behind engine under the front hood on drivers side in
have you checked the front differential fluid level? dipstick on passengers side behind engine under the front hood as well.
$1,500 sounds way overpriced, i would not take it to these guys again.
drive to morgantown and i'll tell you what's going on or PM/email me.
i can't make that trip though, i'm way too packed right now. if you end up selling it, PM or email me.
1. if the sound is notably "on one side" like passengers or drivers, then it is highly unlikely to be the transmission.
2. if one of the axle boots are broken (just look at them, very easy to see)
this thread has pictures of what the axles look like, the one end is right behind the wheel, the other side attaches to the transmission. look at the two rubber boots on each end and see if those are cracked. there is one axle on each side/wheel:
Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:44 AM
front diffs can go bad, but they are not a common fail point in subarus.
the most common ''mis-diagnosed'' front diff issue is ''torque bind''.
this is a situation where the front and rear wheels are ''locked'' together
like a 4X4 truck with ''locked hubs''.
it works great when driving in sand or mud, but not so good on dry pavement.
if you put the FWD fuse in under the hood it should disconnect the rear
wheels from the drive train, making the car ''front wheel drive'' only.
if this eliminates the problem, the front diff is ok.
open the hood.
stand in front of the car and look at the engine.
in the right front corner, near the driver side head light is the battery.
directly behind that are 2 things.
a large white bottle with a yellow top, this is the windshiel washer fluid.
and a smaller black box, closer to the fender. this isthe fuse box.
release the catch on the front end of the fuse box and open it.
look at the inside of the lid.
one of the fuse locations on the lid will be marked FWD and the fuse space
will be empty.
put any spare fuse in the slot and then drive the car.
if you buy fuses from an auto parts store, ~$5 maybe, the guy may help you
install the fuse.
just smile and ask.
Edited by johnceggleston, 11 April 2013 - 05:46 AM.
Posted 11 April 2013 - 07:23 PM
Posted 11 April 2013 - 09:39 PM
Ok I ran out of daylight after work... fuse didn't work I did it right because. it said FWD on the dash. Tranny fluid is overfilled and rear differential fluid was hard to tell but it wasn't dry.. I did see some very minute shiny silver.. had to really look but I saw a few. So now what? Thank you all for being so helpful
make sure to check the transmission fluid while idling. Most autos are made that way.
Posted 11 April 2013 - 10:03 PM
Posted 12 April 2013 - 10:07 AM
Posted 12 April 2013 - 07:45 PM
I'm having a hard time following what's wrong - the symptoms haven't been described much and one post still says "passengers side" which doesn't suggest transmission.
If the front differential is bad you could convert it to RWD and not fix it, it would likely last much longer that way with no load on the front diff. but you'd have to have someone that knows what they're doing do it as the front axles needs disassembled to insert the outer joint into the hub - or just have someone here send you the outer joints and you bolt them on (one nut) after you remove the axle).
Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:09 AM
Posted 13 April 2013 - 11:28 AM
Is it possible youve got a busted front axle? Busted front axle will act sorta like a busted front diff.
It will spin in the cup and make noise.
Normally you can tell because there is a bit of a lag that before the rear wheels kick in to drive. However, if there is a bit of torque bind going on, the rear will drive right away, but the front axle will still make alot of knocking noise.
Have your "mechanic" check that both front axles are still intact.
For future refference....if you have to put a donut spare on, put it on the rear, move a full size tire to the front, and then put the FWD fuse in the holder up front to disengage the rear axles (the ones with the uneven tires)
Posted 13 April 2013 - 05:28 PM
Is it possible youve got a busted front axle?
i think the car would not have driven at all when she put the fuse in. so probably not.
Posted 14 April 2013 - 09:09 AM
. To disable the fr differential does the transmission have to come apart? I know mechanic said it did to change it. And my concern is that it might not be the problem
indeed - we first need to find out what the problem is.
if the front differential is bad one option is to remove the front axles so that they aren't connected to the front differential. that may take the load off the front diff (like neutral and reverse does) and it may last a long time as a RWD vehicle. it's not a great option because then you don't have 4WD but i mention it because that can be done without buying any parts...so the cost is zero dollars in parts...which fits nicely in your budget. but since you don't seem to have much mechanical help it might not be a reality.
if you want to contact me via PM or email (my username here @yahoo) i might be able to arrange coming to look at it.
Posted 18 April 2013 - 02:59 PM
Posted 18 April 2013 - 03:06 PM
was not me in chat. i'm out of state and very busy at the moment, back sunday night.....
Posted 18 April 2013 - 03:39 PM
Posted 18 April 2013 - 04:31 PM
maybe, we'll see, not right now. i'll PM my number, call me tomorrow between noon and 2, i'll try to remember too... that's my only availability until Monday.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users