Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Inner Tie Rod? Outer Tie Rod? Ball Joints? or Struts?


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 UMT

UMT

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 143 posts
  • Pound, WI.

Posted 28 March 2013 - 05:49 AM

99 Impreza Outback Sport, 5 Speed, 237K miles..

 

I developed a slight 'knocking' in the front end when hitting bumps.   Also developed a 'wheel shimmy' about the same time.   Newer tires and I'm sure alignment and balancing are correct.

 

I first thought it was probably front struts.  I got underneath (both wheels) and cannot find any play in the ball joints or outer tie rod ends although rubber covers look rough on the tie rod ends.   Leaning towards tie rods as I noticed the 'knock' when going going over a very slight bump in the road the other day.   Bump shouldn't have been enough to put much strain, if any, on the struts.  Also would seem to be likely culprit for the wheel shimmy??? 

 

Just finished watching a YouTube video on tie rod replacement and realized that this could very well be a INNER tie rod issue????   Put car in the air and check for play in the wheel???

 

I fully realize that with the amount of miles on this car, it's probably time to replace them all and that will probably happen part by part in time but would like some thoughts on the most likely culprit now.  

 

Thanks,

UMT  



#2 88wacaroo

88wacaroo

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 235 posts
  • Denver,Co.

Posted 28 March 2013 - 08:44 AM

Does the wheel shimmy when hitting the brakes?-Warped Rotors.......Clunk-Have you checked the Sway Bar Links,they"ll start getting loose and make noise. If you need to replace them get the moog ones- they have grease fittings... 



#3 mikaleda

mikaleda

    legacy specialtist

  • Members
  • 1,566 posts
  • priest lake, Idaho

Posted 28 March 2013 - 12:18 PM

I doubt the inner tierods are the problem, and did you jack the car up off the ground before you checked everything? The front end needs to be off the ground or even a badly worn balljoint or axel will feel tight.

What you are describing could be outer tierods, ball joint, swaybar links, control arm bushings, wheel bearings (probably not in this case), or a loose strut top (also unlikely unless you recently had your struts changed)

Edited by mikaleda, 28 March 2013 - 12:25 PM.


#4 Danno

Danno

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Doylestown, PA

Posted 28 March 2013 - 02:57 PM

I'm having a similar issue.  It's on a 2000 Outback.  I lifted each side independently to check for horizontal play in the wheels.  The drivers side seemed ok, but I was able to move it slightly.  The passenger side was something else.  It wasn't so much back and forth play as I was able to nose the wheel out (possibly as much as 2 inches.  I then heard a click, and it was solid like the driver's side.  I am sort of hoping it's the inner tie rod end and not something more sinister.



#5 Danno

Danno

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Doylestown, PA

Posted 28 March 2013 - 02:58 PM

I should also say, I first thought it was the struts.  I think I may need to replace them anyway.  Is it possibly a power steering issue?



#6 J A Blazer

J A Blazer

    Eat, Live, Breath Subaru

  • Members
  • 365 posts
  • Fairfax, Virginia

Posted 28 March 2013 - 05:39 PM

Do the sway bar bushings.  Cheap and easy.  See if that doesn't at least reduce the clunks.



#7 UMT

UMT

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 143 posts
  • Pound, WI.

Posted 28 March 2013 - 08:47 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions.   Will let the board know when I get it figured out.   Going to start replacing stuff until it goes away!



#8 kenpdx

kenpdx

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58 posts
  • Ketchum, Idaho

Posted 30 March 2013 - 09:46 PM

I've had similar issues on my 97 Leggy and it turned out the steering rack was trash, for what it's worth.



#9 UMT

UMT

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 143 posts
  • Pound, WI.

Posted 25 April 2013 - 04:53 PM

Ok,,   I've been paying close attention to my issue since I made the original post.    Got the car up in the air today and checked the tie rods and there is no movement at all when I grab the tire and move it side to side.  NONE.  Nice and tight on both sides and they look fine also.   Checked the sway bar links, etc.. and it looks like those have been replaced.   Ball joints look terrible.  Rubber all torn up, etc... 

 

So I think at this point it only makes sense to put new ball joints in and see what that does.   Any hints/tips/tricks on replacing these?  While I'm at it, anyway to check them? 

 

Thanks,

UMT



#10 mikaleda

mikaleda

    legacy specialtist

  • Members
  • 1,566 posts
  • priest lake, Idaho

Posted 25 April 2013 - 04:59 PM

Be generouse with penetrating oil and a BFH and a pickle fork are the best way to get them out in my opinion, get the joint loose from the control arm before you take it loose from the knuckle, that will make it a little easier.

#11 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,087 posts
  • WV

Posted 26 April 2013 - 10:29 AM

You're on it, well done - start grabbing/pushing and pulling under there on sway bars and tie rods - if they're loose you'll know it.

 

Clunking I would be is the sway bar bushing.  Can you move the sway bar around by hand, slide it inside the bushings?

Struts clunk too but I've never been able to test one...they're just usually obvious...or so i think anyway...being very outer in their location and wheel dependent.

 

I've never heard a Subaru ball joint make noise before but obviously it's possible.

 

Ball joints are funny - they are really easy to do....unless you have rust/seized bits to work with.  then they become a serious problem.

 

there are three problem areas:

1. getting it out of the control arm

2.  getting it out of the knuckle

3.  removing the pinch bolt without shearing it off

 

Solutions:

1.  pickle fork - that's the one tool that works every time to get the joint out of the control arm.

3.  soak it in good penetrant (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Yield) for many days prior.

 

If #3 goes okay, #2 is the problem child.  I haven't found a tool that gets all the insanely bad ones out...there's a trick involving putting a socket between the hub and control arm...find one of those threads and be prepared to do that.

 

Folks in non-rust areas will make it seem easy....maybe you'll get lucky but make sure you're aware how quickly this can turn into a debacle if serious rust is a possibility where you live.



#12 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 26 April 2013 - 01:53 PM

heat is your friend when removing ball joints.  A lot of the older ones I dont touch without hitting them with Oxy/acel or MAP gas.  You dont have to get them glowing red, just hot enough that it sucks the PB blaster into the recessed areas.  

 

I dont use a pickle fork normally.   If you heat up the control arm where the balljoint taper is, a few swings with a BFH will usually pop the ball joint out.  I do that step last.  I remove the pinch bolt and take a prybar between the control arm and the spindle.  if that doesnt work, hit the control arm with a dead blow hammer a few times.   The only place you hit with a steel hammer is the ball joint housing, its the only thick metal on the control arm.  the rest of the control arm is single/double layer metal, so a deadblow hammer works better (doesnt dent the metal) 

 

if the old rubber on the balljoint flames on, no worries its garbage anyways, just watch your direction of heat so you arent cooking the axle boot.  



#13 mikaleda

mikaleda

    legacy specialtist

  • Members
  • 1,566 posts
  • priest lake, Idaho

Posted 26 April 2013 - 03:08 PM

I've done it without a pickle fork, but its not a bad idea to have one handy. Heat is a really good idea, pb blaster is great in my opinion because it won't evaporate like some other penatrants. Another thing I tend to do on really stubborn ball joints is pull the castle nut off and go for a short romp around the block of corse I live on one of the worst roads on north Idaho and the potholes are plenty big enough to break the ball joint loose :grin:

Edited by mikaleda, 26 April 2013 - 03:08 PM.


#14 torxxx

torxxx

    I void warranties

  • Members
  • 2,914 posts
  • Fairbanks

Posted 27 April 2013 - 10:04 AM

hey good idea I never though of that.  loosen the nut and RALLY!






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users