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Wheel Bearing Advice?


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21 replies to this topic

#1 kanurys

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 03:34 PM

That's not a bad deal, is it? Are these really genuine subaru parts?

http://www.partsgeek...CFY9DMgod5mcAJw

 

Also, the front wheel bearing pictorial guide in the USRM doesn't have any pictures. I have an inner bearing which came off on the axle. Any ideas on how to get it off? I could just replace the axle, too. It is just starting to click...



#2 skishop69

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 03:43 PM

Anyone can put genuine in their ad if the want. If it doesn't come from Subaru, I don't believe it's genuine. Price seems decent enough. You can heat the bearing up and hit it with a hammer. Should pop off. If the axle was clicking, I'd replace it now and save the time of removing the bearing and the time tearing it down again when the axle fails.



#3 kanurys

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:00 PM

Yeah, I'm pretty skeptical about sites that say "genuine." I was wondering if any one has had experience with partsgeek and their reliability on descriptions.

 

$94.11 shipped for both sides. Not too bad. Even the parts stores sell each individual bearing for no less than $25 or $30. That'll put you well over $120 plus the seals.

 

I like the heating idea, but I think it's time to replace the axle.



#4 987687

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:00 PM

I take it you're doing front bearings on an ea82 GL?
That's completely ridiculous overpriced.
Here's a post GD made about wheel bearings - There's a lot of good information in that thread.

The 2RS bearings mentioned there are sealed units, so you can just put them in, slap in some new seals and run it.

 

To get the old one off use a puller, if you have one. Or hit it with a hammer, grind through the races so it just slides off, etc. You don't need to save the bearing, just don't beat up the axle.


Edited by 987687, 31 March 2013 - 04:02 PM.


#5 kanurys

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:14 PM

Nice thread. GD has usually steered everyone in the right direction. I trust his advice and experience. 

 

looks pretty good: http://www.ebay.com/...46523?hlp=false



#6 987687

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:16 PM

I've never heard of USBB before, make sure they aren't some chinese rebrand before you buy it. I've wasted so much time buying crappy cheap wheel bearings, then having to replace them. I learned my lesson a few times on that trying to be cheap.

#7 kanurys

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:21 PM

good point. I can't find a *amn thing on them. Maybe I'll just buy 4 through my acct. at Fastenal.



#8 mudduck

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 05:51 PM

I have been getting my bearings from fastenal. Can't beat the price, but i highly recomend pulling the seals and regreasing them. They put hardly any grease in them. i pack mine with marine grade grease and seems to do good, especially because i cant keep my car out of the mud.



#9 987687

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 06:02 PM

Once you pull the seals out of a sealed bearing, they're almost impossible to get back in without leaking.
I read somewhere that someone took one seal out of each bearing, cleaned all the grease out and packed them with good quality stuff.
They put the open end of each bearing inside the cavity of the knuckle and put grease in there, too. I think that's an absolutely fantastic idea. Leaves lots of grease to flow to the bearings, and it's an extra layer of security to keep water out. I'm definitely going to do this next time I have to do a bearing on my car.

#10 kanurys

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 06:29 PM

I read that on here, somewhere. I think I'll do it along with marine bearing grease like on all my other stuff.

The warn out bearings were found when I was tearing down for these other things:
-Moog progressive '94 tempo springs cut to 13.5" free-height, bought new from czny
-new inner/outer tie rods and boots
-new ball joints
-polyurethane toyota leaf spring shackle bushings in control arms with larger bolts and holes knurled out a little out and down.
-axle replacement

I think the bearings were old or original but still good until I put 1000 miles on with 27's and a 4" SJR lift. The grease looks good, but old molly type.

#11 maozebong

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 11:56 PM

if you get a 207s timken bearing, they only come with one seal on them, and you can pack with the grease you please. 

 

if you can find it, lubrication engineers makes a grease that when used on all 4 wheel bearings got me 2-4mpg improvement, called monolec 4622. 

 

ive tested it personally, and also used it on the race cars i built. and saw lap time improvements over redline grease. 



#12 Lacyjs9

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 06:24 PM

does the 4wd gl have inner and outer bearings and have pics or suggestion on how to get the right ones as iwll be out of a ride for a few days if i take it a part 



#13 kanurys

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 06:29 PM

See post #4. Also I started a thread with pictures of mine.

#14 Gloyale

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 09:06 PM

I have been getting my bearings from fastenal. Can't beat the price, but i highly recomend pulling the seals and regreasing them. They put hardly any grease in them. i pack mine with marine grade grease and seems to do good, especially because i cant keep my car out of the mud.

+1



#15 rlpete

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:34 AM

I am trying to get the bearings out of my 86 XT, I tried using a press to press them out but they will not budge.  Is there a stop in the middle to prevent them from being pressed through the housing?



#16 NorthWet

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:58 AM

Yes.  They have to be tapped out using hammer and drift (preferably brass ).  There are reliefs in the hub's race bore that allows the drift some room for working.  There is also a floating spacer collar in the hub center between the bearings.

 

So, you have to put the drift into the hub's bore and contact the opposite side's outer race.  Tap a little move the drift to another spot on the race, tap a little. Repeat until bearing is clear of its bore.

 

Be careful to NOT gouge the hub surface.


Edited by NorthWet, 02 September 2013 - 10:01 AM.


#17 kanurys

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 10:06 AM

Yes -

IMG_20130406_124900.jpg



#18 rlpete

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 11:36 AM

Thanks, that will help a lot.



#19 BoxerRebellion

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 12:13 PM

That's way... way too much for bearings.

 

If I'm not mistaken, your scoob takes #6702 bearings. (Which is a size used for many applications)

 

Do yourself a favor and get sealed bearings. And the cost shouldn't exceed $12-$15 each.

Sealed bearings do not require any greasing, and will stay cleaner for longer.

 

http://www.mcguirebearing.com/ -not sure if they ship, but I'd check this company out.

I get auto/motorcycle bearings through them. Sealed, everytime.



#20 rlpete

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:26 PM

Just curious, if I get the sealed bearings to I need to put the grease seals back in?  I will be picking up the sealed bearings that I ordered at the bearing house tomorrow.



#21 kanurys

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:34 PM

maybe you should read my thread and a few others on this conversion. They're all in the forum, just search http://www.ultimates...h&fromMainBar=1



#22 Idasho

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:37 PM

I have been getting my bearings from fastenal. Can't beat the price, but i highly recomend pulling the seals and regreasing them. They put hardly any grease in them. i pack mine with marine grade grease and seems to do good, especially because i cant keep my car out of the mud.

 

 

Im running fastenal bearings too.

 

 

Dirt cheap.  And I have yet to have any problems with the factory installed grease.

 

A touch more than 5k miles now.  Though my GL doesnt see mud.

 

But even if they fail, they are so darn cheap and easy to replace....

 

 

ea98.jpg






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