kanurys Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 That's not a bad deal, is it? Are these really genuine subaru parts? http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/362-01017378.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1985-1989+Subaru+GL+Wheel+Bearing+Kit+Genuine+Front+85-89+Subaru+Wheel+Bearing+Kit+1986+1988&gclid=CMPGleDlp7YCFY9DMgod5mcAJw Also, the front wheel bearing pictorial guide in the USRM doesn't have any pictures. I have an inner bearing which came off on the axle. Any ideas on how to get it off? I could just replace the axle, too. It is just starting to click... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Anyone can put genuine in their ad if the want. If it doesn't come from Subaru, I don't believe it's genuine. Price seems decent enough. You can heat the bearing up and hit it with a hammer. Should pop off. If the axle was clicking, I'd replace it now and save the time of removing the bearing and the time tearing it down again when the axle fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Yeah, I'm pretty skeptical about sites that say "genuine." I was wondering if any one has had experience with partsgeek and their reliability on descriptions. $94.11 shipped for both sides. Not too bad. Even the parts stores sell each individual bearing for no less than $25 or $30. That'll put you well over $120 plus the seals. I like the heating idea, but I think it's time to replace the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) I take it you're doing front bearings on an ea82 GL?That's completely ridiculous overpriced.Here's a post GD made about wheel bearings - There's a lot of good information in that thread. The 2RS bearings mentioned there are sealed units, so you can just put them in, slap in some new seals and run it. To get the old one off use a puller, if you have one. Or hit it with a hammer, grind through the races so it just slides off, etc. You don't need to save the bearing, just don't beat up the axle. Edited March 31, 2013 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Nice thread. GD has usually steered everyone in the right direction. I trust his advice and experience. looks pretty good: http://www.ebay.com/itm/370730046523?hlp=false Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I've never heard of USBB before, make sure they aren't some chinese rebrand before you buy it. I've wasted so much time buying crappy cheap wheel bearings, then having to replace them. I learned my lesson a few times on that trying to be cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 good point. I can't find a *amn thing on them. Maybe I'll just buy 4 through my acct. at Fastenal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I have been getting my bearings from fastenal. Can't beat the price, but i highly recomend pulling the seals and regreasing them. They put hardly any grease in them. i pack mine with marine grade grease and seems to do good, especially because i cant keep my car out of the mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Once you pull the seals out of a sealed bearing, they're almost impossible to get back in without leaking. I read somewhere that someone took one seal out of each bearing, cleaned all the grease out and packed them with good quality stuff. They put the open end of each bearing inside the cavity of the knuckle and put grease in there, too. I think that's an absolutely fantastic idea. Leaves lots of grease to flow to the bearings, and it's an extra layer of security to keep water out. I'm definitely going to do this next time I have to do a bearing on my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 I read that on here, somewhere. I think I'll do it along with marine bearing grease like on all my other stuff. The warn out bearings were found when I was tearing down for these other things: -Moog progressive '94 tempo springs cut to 13.5" free-height, bought new from czny -new inner/outer tie rods and boots -new ball joints -polyurethane toyota leaf spring shackle bushings in control arms with larger bolts and holes knurled out a little out and down. -axle replacement I think the bearings were old or original but still good until I put 1000 miles on with 27's and a 4" SJR lift. The grease looks good, but old molly type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 if you get a 207s timken bearing, they only come with one seal on them, and you can pack with the grease you please. if you can find it, lubrication engineers makes a grease that when used on all 4 wheel bearings got me 2-4mpg improvement, called monolec 4622. ive tested it personally, and also used it on the race cars i built. and saw lap time improvements over redline grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacyjs9 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 does the 4wd gl have inner and outer bearings and have pics or suggestion on how to get the right ones as iwll be out of a ride for a few days if i take it a part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 See post #4. Also I started a thread with pictures of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I have been getting my bearings from fastenal. Can't beat the price, but i highly recomend pulling the seals and regreasing them. They put hardly any grease in them. i pack mine with marine grade grease and seems to do good, especially because i cant keep my car out of the mud. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlpete Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 I am trying to get the bearings out of my 86 XT, I tried using a press to press them out but they will not budge. Is there a stop in the middle to prevent them from being pressed through the housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) Yes. They have to be tapped out using hammer and drift (preferably brass ). There are reliefs in the hub's race bore that allows the drift some room for working. There is also a floating spacer collar in the hub center between the bearings. So, you have to put the drift into the hub's bore and contact the opposite side's outer race. Tap a little move the drift to another spot on the race, tap a little. Repeat until bearing is clear of its bore. Be careful to NOT gouge the hub surface. Edited September 2, 2013 by NorthWet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Yes - 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlpete Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Thanks, that will help a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerRebellion Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 That's way... way too much for bearings. If I'm not mistaken, your scoob takes #6702 bearings. (Which is a size used for many applications) Do yourself a favor and get sealed bearings. And the cost shouldn't exceed $12-$15 each. Sealed bearings do not require any greasing, and will stay cleaner for longer. http://www.mcguirebearing.com/ -not sure if they ship, but I'd check this company out. I get auto/motorcycle bearings through them. Sealed, everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlpete Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Just curious, if I get the sealed bearings to I need to put the grease seals back in? I will be picking up the sealed bearings that I ordered at the bearing house tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 maybe you should read my thread and a few others on this conversion. They're all in the forum, just search http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I have been getting my bearings from fastenal. Can't beat the price, but i highly recomend pulling the seals and regreasing them. They put hardly any grease in them. i pack mine with marine grade grease and seems to do good, especially because i cant keep my car out of the mud. Im running fastenal bearings too. Dirt cheap. And I have yet to have any problems with the factory installed grease. A touch more than 5k miles now. Though my GL doesnt see mud. But even if they fail, they are so darn cheap and easy to replace.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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