elBradford Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 I'm getting ready to get married and sell my 1993 Loyale. It had an issue with the ignition, especially when it was cold, where accessories would turn on, but it wouldn't start. A buzzing sound would cut out. I found a bundle of wires under the steering column that if I kind of moved around it would start. I figured it was a short in one of those wires. The accessories would always work though, even if it wouldn't start easily. Again, this usually happened when it was cold. Today, I leave it for 5 minutes after driving several miles. Coming out, I put the key in, turned it, and NOTHING. No accessories, nothing. I moved the wire around, nothing. The only things that do work are the hazard lights and the buzzing sound when the door is open and the key is in the ignition. I found that is controlled by a small bundle of 2 wires. The larger bundle that I used to bend to get it to start goes to the ignition switch, and I opened it up and everything seems fine. I wonder if it's a bad ignition switch. Could anyone shed some light on what this could possibly be? I'm getting married in a few weeks, graduate a week later, and then commission in the Air Force and move to Mississippi a few days later. So I really don't want the stress from this :/ The whole electrical system has been a bit wonky in this car since I've been driving it the last 3 years. The clock is dim and SOMETIMES comes on, and lately my car has been running really bad. This could be caused by an ignition switch that was cruddy I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 kinda tricky and could be multiple problems but, if I were you, I'd consider re-freshing as many grounds as I could find, inspecting wire bundles for rodent damage. Probably would hurt to very closely inspect the battery and alt. cables. Perhaps the contacts in the starter solenoid are worn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 One of the common issues for this kind of trouble is due to a loose fuse link connection so check for that. Look in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. The trouble is most likely there. The black link carries the most current and it might be loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Could also be just a bad contact board in the ignition switch. IIRC, that is pretty common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elBradford Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to pull the steering column apart and we'll see if I can hotwire it. I'll let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Does it make sense to do the hard things first? If you first don't simply pop the cover to the fusible links and make sure they are good first you could possibly waste a lot of time and effort looking for a problem where it isn't at. Just sayin, it's your time and effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Wouldn't hurt to check the ignition and fuel pump relays, too. Those are accessible if you drop the ECU (big shiny thing with a mess of wires bolted up next to the steering column). The relays are the blue and brown square fuse looking thingies, I forget which is which, but they are cheap and readily accessible from any parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elBradford Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 It was the fusible link! Thanks Cougar for the tip. I was planning on checking that out before pulling the ignition apart but I didn't know what a fusible link was before this issue. It was fried. I don't know what the cause was. And the hardest part was finding a new link. OReilly had a 16ga which is close enough to 1.25mm. It works now, but I'm a little concerned about what caused it. Thanks for the help everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elBradford Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Here's a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Good lord! That had some serious electricity moving through it... Besides it being a non-original link in the first place.. Before you fully power up that system, I'd run an ammeter across it to make sure you don't have a large short (and keep blowing links or worse...) And what's that large power wire in the upper left corner for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elBradford Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 That wire is running to my amp in the trunk. A relic from my high school days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 That wire is running to my amp in the trunk. A relic from my high school days... well, we all have pasts we can't escape.. and is the system still working/connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elBradford Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Yes, it's hooked up to an old amp and 10" sub. After putting in the new link everything is working as normal, except the plastic piece under the steering wheel I broke off on accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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