matts87glsedan Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Why do you have a spark plug and oil presure sensor in your intake? Is it for some sort of 5th injector set up? its for the 'backfill the pipe with nitrous super explodation' sequence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 got some documentation of the pre may-long upgrades. I'm the cosmetic guy, which is pretty funny - Ivan did the paint job "dont touch the paint!" , I made some decals to fancy her up a bit. Ivan layed in the 3 inch turbo back exhaust and i finished evening # 2 on the super explodation blast shield. didnt even get a pic of how sweet the fit is. oh well, next time. meanwhile, pete and ivan bring in the hood, after i 'finally' got out of the way. marty the smooth operator dropped in right as i was taking this picture - so his rump roast goes on the internet . Some of the weekends activities on the trailer. plus ivan rebuilt two hybrid axles , and probably did some other stuff maybe we have vid cams for beach days . i was wondering ivan if you could run a driveshaft brake to help hold it back, or if it would just get folded over, hang you up, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 i think it might shear the pinion if braking to hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 well what a good test weekend think the engines broken in now 3 days of redline on the beach 3 tanks of gas and 2 jugs of methonol was a bitt tight at first but loosend up by end of weekend. Broke 3 rear axles two at one time doing a hudge air off a berm everything else held up well. Tink its time to biuld some stronger axles for the rear it was shearing them of clean about 2 inchs from cv. anyway the new engine makes crazy power at least 25 % more than last years engine. And the biger turbo makes more boost starts at 15 psi so I had to jump up the meth by two jet sizes. I even got to look at speedo one time was doing about 100 at 4500 rpms in 2nd never did find the rev limit in 2nd gear mind you the buggy was hardly touching the ground half the time. Think its ready for the race season. So brain storm some rear axle ideas for me boys a'm thinking about useing two fronts cut in middle and welded togther to make larger rear axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 axles , Ive been thinkinn on this , most of the time they are strong enuf , its just that say %5 of the time we stress them past there limit, now if the axles had some give or flex say like rubber, or some slip like a clutch they wouldn't break cause they would never be stressed to that point, they do sell Sheer type axles for the VW based buggies were the sheer bolts break and you replace them quickly, but I don't think that's the answer, something with give at the point just before axle breakage , not sure the solution but know direction to go , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 so was checking out the axle situation last night have been saving the 3 rib inside cv joints for 10 years have about 40 of them so we take two 3 rib axles cut them in the center sleave and pin them weld them up and hope they hold the tecnic for welding two cvs togther is a chalenge but have seen it done before. The front cv is at least 60 % bigger and fitts the rear diff outputs so half way there. So took all my rears i have left gl and loyale made as many rear axles as i could came up with 7 hybreid axles when they are broken i have no more hope they last the season. A'm concerend now that i have the power to shear them with the 27s what about when i put on the paddle 31s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 definitely was fun, im glad i came out. Thats a great location - sand, rock piles, pits, jumps, one quicksand hole, haha. when the water goes down some more it looks like it'll be even better. the buggy is hella fun to drive - revs up so fast you have to be out of 1st within about 30ft, then when the boost comes on in second it hits like 2 stroke power-band and holy shite, its time to test your manhood. I had it 'floating' in a straight line and dont think i used more than 60% of available power. gotta say, a clear windshield would definitely help though. i never quite knew when i was going to run out of land! it was also sweet to just crawl it around in the pits too. full skidplate on the bottom to roll into a hole, then LSD rear end, and lots of power to chew up and out the other side. i could do that all day and not even bother draggin' it. I'm really pissed that i didnt line up a video camera though. there was enough action to make a great little edit... stuck dodges, broken axles, drunkards, dirtbikes.. There was enough other people filming that maybe some of it will turn up on youtube. The crapinator was turning some heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 So the thought is take two front cvs and press a sleeve over them and then weld the sleeve to axle do not know how mutch power thiss will hold but i gess the buggy is a good candate to test them out on. The front cv is way larger and shaft size is larger i think this is the way to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 too bad we couldnt just shorten one, then i could start the tounge and groove before i part out the center, and the splines would be lined up properly. its the same splines on both ends, and the grooves are in the same position relative to the end of the shaft. But the snap ring one is 1.75mm wide by .8mm deep, and the other one is 2mm wide by 2.5mm deep. oh and also, the snap ring end seems to have a larger diameter behind the splines that the cup pushes up against... damn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMax11 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 axles , Ive been thinkinn on this , most of the time they are strong enuf , its just that say %5 of the time we stress them past there limit, now if the axles had some give or flex say like rubber, or some slip like a clutch they wouldn't break cause they would never be stressed to that point, they do sell Sheer type axles for the VW based buggies were the sheer bolts break and you replace them quickly, but I don't think that's the answer, something with give at the point just before axle breakage , not sure the solution but know direction to go , I read about a prerunner truck a while back that had cv axles cut from a torsion bar type of steel, which would flex a bit when stressed super hard instead of breaking. Sounded like a great way to solve the breaking axles issues. I would love to see someone pioneer this with a subaru.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 torsion bar steel whould be britle i think have seen many broken ones i like the idea. Kinda like runing my rear paddles at 5 psi to wrinkle the sides on launch let the tires give a bitt. Thanks to matts incredabble meshuring / machineing skills i think we are geting somwere. If we run a axle with biger cv can get more height out of rear end mabee even add length to the rear arms make the wheel base longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 TRiangle PTO shaft was the best bet I have found. I never did build the shafts though. Moved onto other things. Why not go and make custom rear arms with chain drives inside.A dual row chain will carry torque properly.Then you could have clearance! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 all about overall weight i dont want to go over 1400lbs have been shaving weight off for years. Anyway is least of my problems #3 cly lost comp down from 150 -120 looked at plug and top of piston is smashed when it got hot it interfered with top of cly head. is a bummer have to buy pistons again gess that why we turture test it still runs fine but i know its a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 got my deul calipier setup working last night x4 toyota 4 piston calipiers should be able to hold back now or twist the drive shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 getting the second bracket welded on caliper bolted up after a fair bit of back and forth, clearancing on both the bracket and the caliper with a grinder to get the pads to have a full grab on the rotor. shot of the finished product, with ivans double banjo, hard line/soft line plumbing. the toyota calipers are now heli coiled to take the banjo threads. they almost got thrown in the trash at one point haha. long day, but nice to see it finished at the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 So if your worried about weight why have the hood and front fenders? Or the 3" pipe running all the way to the back .None of those things make it faster,stronger, or safer. Or are they required for racing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 So if your worried about weight why have the hood and front fenders? Or the 3" pipe running all the way to the back .None of those things make it faster,stronger, or safer. Or are they required for racing? Yeah they said that they needed the hood and body panels to abide by certain rules for racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 Yes rules state recognizabble body and i'm pushing it still. The exhaust is so i dont have to breath exhaust fallout and also pointed in safe direction and give some backpreshure the hood and fenders weigh about 20 lbs the extra calipir will add weight but dubble my holdback power { is very hard to hold back the power at the 3500 stall } and front brakes are danger on thiss buggy. I figured out yesterday that i have one curcit blocked on master and only was useing half of master but the other half was dead heading and fighting me so was not geting full preshure will revise the lines a bitt. Anybody ever seen a deul calipier setup before ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 " I figured out yesterday that i have one curcit blocked on master and only was useing half of master but the other half was dead heading and fighting me " aww crap! so maybe that caliper doesnt need to be on there, lol. oh well, good practice for my car . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 is that a ea82 rear setup? I assumed your car was all EJ parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Backpressure is a MYTH! Its all about exhaust VELOCITY not pressure. If the pipe is too big the exhaust slows down and cools then the engine must work to force it out.The Inverse of that is that smaller pipe the exhaust flows fast and hot but it reaches a choke point where it wont flow any more air/exhaust CFM and top end suffers due to the motor having to work to push the exhaust out. Besides you already have enough of a restriction in the exhaust from the turbo itself. Would you still smell the exhaust if it exited at the top of the windshield rather than at the back of the "cab"? Ideal airflow speed in a pipe is 451.2 ft/s 2" ID pipe flows 590 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 2.25" ID pipe flows 747 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 2.5" ID pipe flows 922 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 2.75" ID pipe flows 1116 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 3" ID pipe flows 1328 CFM at 451.2 ft/s a 2.5L engine spinning at a maximum RPM of 7000 RPM with a VE of 125% flows 380 CFM,VE at 200% flows 618 CFM, and at 300% VE it flows 927 CFM. Although I highly doubt your VE is that high at full boost. My 310 HP cummins turbo diesel has a whopping 60% VE at max horsepower even though its boosting at 35 PSI to get there. You might save some weight by going with a 2.5" exhaust after the the firewall.You will be able to save even more if you can run it up the windshield rather than out back,but I don't know if you would still get "exhausted".Or just dump it out the side of the fender... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 One important thing to consider is that the exhaust CFM is at least double the intake CFM due to thermal expansion. PV=nRT and all that jazz. 3" sounds about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 at the kammloops race in 2010 i lost the turbo shaft and impeler out the exhaust at 7000rpms and at 100mile in 2011 we gernaded a 2.2 turbo twin cam sent lots of peices into the air and out the pipe we dont want it pointed at anybody. And keeping the guy at the start line safe is priority. Seems to like a longer exhaust runs better than strait out also my o2 works better. One more thing should have been more clear about dont want to add any weight to front rear is ok as car is front heavy have been trying to get a good balance piont so no nosie dives when jumping. Anyway i just have to rebiuld the toyota calipiers and rear brake are done then back to engine. Scott no thats a ea rear end setup tortion bar and coil shock the rear end is original from the 81 2dr 4x4 that buggy was made from we moved it from under the back to under the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 take a hole saw and swiss cheese the aluminum panel supports on the front. Do you run a windshield washer ?If you do you could mount the reservoir in the back. Run aluminum pulleys on the crank,alternator,etc. Are there any pieces in the front framework that could be made lighter by drilling some holes or redesigning the tube routeing? With your buggy its hard to add weight to the back because there isnt a back end. I dunno relocate your seat and the controls further back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) One important thing to consider is that the exhaust CFM is at least double the intake CFM due to thermal expansion. PV=nRT and all that jazz. 3" sounds about right. it seems to run nice in this configuration. better than the previous set up (seen in first pics). no loss of low end power, and its made for being wide open anyway. maybe could get away with less diameter, but its too late now, first race is july 1st. And theres still engine issue, and other stuff to fine tune. alignment is all screwy lol, and steering rack has like 2 inches of slop. 6 inch strap in the front could take a hole sawing and still be strong. the seat is already against the back wall - the nitrous and fuel cell could be moved behind the wall for weight shiftage, but thats not a small job. .. i guess chain-drive rear arms would be a weight shift item bigtime.. man, i remember old culitvators had chain drive arms.. but they didnt have to hold big power. also a big job too.. Edited May 29, 2013 by matts87glsedan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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