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2.5l to 2.2l Swap Clarification


legacy1
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Have read as many posts as I can get my hands on, just need some clarification and reassurance. Can't afford to make a mistake on this. Have a 1996 Legacy, 2.5l Automatic. Engine is blown, want to swap in a 2.2l.

 

From what I gather a 2.2l from a 1996-98 Legacy will work with minimal work, Here are the questions I have:

 

 

Can I use all existing engine accessories on the 2.5 with the 2.2 motor?

 

Does anything from the 2.5l have to be swapped to the 2.2 (intake manifold, etc?).

 

I've read that I'll need the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 car, is that right?

 

 

Thanks!

Edited by legacy1
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Have read as many posts as I can get my hands on, just need some clarification and reassurance. Can't afford to make a mistake on this. Have a 1996 Legacy, 2.5l Automatic. Engine is blown, want to swap in a 2.2l.

 

From what I gather a 2.2l from a 1996-98 Legacy will work with minimal work, Here are the questions I have:

 

 

Can I use all existing engine accessories on the 2.5 with the 2.2 motor?

 

Does anything from the 2.5l have to be swapped to the 2.2 (intake manifold, etc?).

 

I've read that I'll need the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 car, is that right?

 

 

Thanks!

 

Yes

 

Maybe, depends on the 2.2. I used a '94, and had to swap the engine harness and throttle body across. Manifold will not work on any 2.2.

 

Maybe. '96+ 2.2s had single port exhaust. So if you use one of those engines, you'll need the exhaust manifold to match

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Thanks for the reply. OK, so 96-98, can swap the 2.2l over provided I have the 2.2 exhaust manifolds. Will just need my old accessories from 2.5 if 2.2 doesn't include them, and otherwise should be good to go? OK to use 2.2 flywheel in an automatic application?

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OK to use 2.2 flywheel in an automatic application?

No. Use the flexplate that is bolted to your 2.5

 

 

If you're concerned about having a functional Check Engine Light (I suspect you are since it says you are in CA), you'll have to find a 2.2 (or at least 2.2 intake manifold) with an EGR. These are not terribly common. The one I did doesn't have one, and throws a code for it. Runs beautifully, but would not pass any sort of inspection, I'm sure.

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ej22s to swap into 96 - 99 outbacks & GTs or 98 foresters.

in order of preference:

 

1/ 95 ej22 with EGR, usually from an auto trans car. (maybe not from an impreza, you need obd2.)

direct swap, use the ej25 flex plate / fly wheel.

do not disconnect the AC lines from the compressor, just unbolt the bracket and flop it out of the way.

after install, use the AC bracket from the ej25.

this is the easiest and cleanest swap.

 

2/ 96 - 98 ej22 with EGR, usually from an auto trans car.

you will need the exhaust manifold from the donor car since these years have single port exhaust instead of dual port.

use the ej25 flex plate / fly wheel.

do not disconnect the AC lines from the compressor, just unbolt the bracket and flop it out of the way.

after install, use the AC bracket from the ej25.

this is the second easiest swap.

 

FYI:

the 95 - 96 ej22s are non-interfernce.

the 97 - 98 ej22s are interference.

 

if you have the donor ej22 car, also swap in the power steering lines. the ej25 lines will work just fine, but the support brackets do not meet the heads. using the ej22 lines will make it look factory.

Edited by johnceggleston
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Oh..computer from the 2.2 donor car would resolve check engine light issue, right?

 

Imagine I could also just take the egr components off the 2.5 and keep them connected to the harness, though not mechanically attached to the 2.2 intake.

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Oh..computer from the 2.2 donor car would resolve check engine light issue, right?

no, the ECU has to match the wiring harness in the car.

some ECUs will swap in some years but don't count on it clearing up a CEL issue.

it has been tried and it does not work.

 

besides if you select an engine from the above list you will not have any CEL issues.

 

 

Imagine I could also just take the egr components off the 2.5 and keep them connected to the harness,
though not mechanically attached to the 2.2 intake.
again, this has been tried and does not work. you NEED an ej22 engine with EGR.
this is only available 95 - 98, usually from auto trans cars, but maybe not always. double check before you buy.
 
 
 
 
 
you could of course use an ej22 without EGR and then swap in an intake from an ej22 with EGR and then drill and tap the driver side head .
but it is a lot easier to use an ej22 95 - 98 with EGR.
 
 
 
 

 

 

Edited by johnceggleston
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Am I missing something?

 

 

Either way, 95 or 96 regular legacy would have a 2.2 already.

 

I've had customers mistake which engine they have before so i'm just clarifying becuase there were not many 2.5s in standrad legacys not outbacks.

 

96 was first year for USDM dohc 2.5, and it was not in many cars only top tier models.

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impreza EJ22's are identical to legacy so expand your search options:

1995-1998 impreza Ej22's will also work.

 

 

Oh..computer from the 2.2 donor car would resolve check engine light issue, right?

Imagine I could also just take the egr components off the 2.5 and keep them connected to the harness, though not mechanically attached to the 2.2 intake.

 

no.  if you install a non-EGR engine plan on having a check engine light.  i've swapped the entire intake manifold and non EGR ECU, scoured
the Subaru Factory Service Manual engine EGR sections and wiring diagrams, cut the EGR wires and somehow still get EGR codes. to my
knowledge no one has figured it out.  one of my daily drivers is a 1996 is an EJ22 swapped EJ25 equipped Legacy LSi.  1996 Legacy LSi's have EJ25's. 

 

a 1995 EJ22 from an automatic will have EGR and you don't need the exhaust manifold. 

 

some 1996-1998's have EGR, many don't. 

 

another option is to get an EJ22 EGR intake and route it into the exhaust pipes instead of the head, that's been done before.  lots of extra work/parts though...

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  • 1 month later...

i finally tracked down a 95 ej22 w/egr to swap into my 98 forester.

 

true question is what do i need to look out for? i'm having to take it into a shop for the swap and i know they wont know the differences no matter how small they may be.

 

My accessories should bolt up to the ej22 correct? and pretty much be pnp?

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move flexplate and all accessories (power steering pump and bracket, a/c and bracket), from the old engine to the new engine.  actually the A/C compressor can be swung out of the way so you don't have to open up the system to do it.

 

yes - that engine is plug and play.

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move flexplate and all accessories (power steering pump and bracket, a/c and bracket), from the old engine to the new engine.  actually the A/C compressor can be swung out of the way so you don't have to open up the system to do it.

 

yes - that engine is plug and play.

thanks,

 

i'm ready to get this thing swapped and send that dohc to the scrap heap.

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thanks,

 

i'm ready to get this thing swapped and send that dohc to the scrap heap.

you can sell it for parts too.  if it's a blown headgasket people will want the entire motor.  if the block is blown someone may want the heads as well, i think 96 are HLA and some folks like those for less maintenance/no valve adjustment, so you can get $100+ for the heads.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had the foz back for a few weeks now. All seems to be going well so far minus an exhaust leak, can't seem to track it down. Shop replaced the exhaust gaskets but its still there.

 

If you listen it seems directly below the starter, exhaust manifold? If I put my head where I think it is it seems to be somewhere else. Any ideas? Driving me crazy

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what is the leak sound? pop pop pop or a hiss?

 

i swapped an ej22 into a 98 obw and had an exhaust leak. (it was my second swap.)

i finally learned it was the EGR pipe, i didn't have one.

i had bought the engine and done a reseal and timing belt, but never noticed it was missing the EGR pipe.

and although it ran, pop pop pop, it never threw a code.

 

on my next swap. one of my exhaust manifold studs / nuts did not tighten up.

the nut and stud came out of the block together and i re-used it.

i think the stud must have bottomed out before the nut tightened on the flange.

 

both of these are / were due to inexperience.

part of the learning process.

Edited by johnceggleston
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on my next swap. one of my exhaust manifold studs / nuts did not tighten up.

the nut and stud came out of the block together and i re-used it.

i think the stud must have bottomed out before the nut tightened on the flange.

 

yupper - had a similar issue with my car using the same motor - pulled motor for a complete reseal, several of the exhaust studs came out of the block - they got reused anyway on reinstall - less than 2 weeks later, blew out the exhaust gaskets. New studs/nuts and gaskets - problem solved.

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