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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Loyale quite on me. Need Help.

Fuel ignition?

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7 replies to this topic

#1 tedbull

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 01:08 PM

So my loyale quite on me this morning. I was cruising down the highway and it sputtered a couple times and then cut out. It cranks over just fine but wont start. The exhaust pops and sputters when cranked. I had limited tools on hand but did pull the fuel filter and blew thru it and it was clear. So I had it towed home.

 

What should be the first things to check for in order? I dont have a helper availible right now so I have to troubleshoot myself. I was going to check the fuel system first. And my first thought is to just pull the hose off the TBI and stick it in a coffee can and crank it over to see if I get fuel, I know thats not the safest way but its old school and seams easier to me than running around with my meter. Plus I cannot listen under the car to hear the pump without someone turning the key for me.

 

When she quite on me I heard the exhaust pop and sputter before I felt the motor jerk. I wonder if the exhaust system/muffler became plugged all the sudden. Not sure how I would go about testing that very easily? Other than pulling the rusted/seized connections apart after the cat.

 

And as far as timing. If one of the timing belts failed, (probably not too likely since I replaced them 25K ago) would I still get spark? Or how would I go about checking if the timing belts were good without pulling the shrouds? Also how to check to make sure one side did not skipp?



#2 Dee2

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 03:43 PM

If a vehicle does a hurt dance when it quits it is likely a fuel related problem.  Electrical/belt related problems are usually more sudden death.

 

If you crank the engine and the distributor rotor does not turn then it is a broken belt.  I believe there are also some inspection ports which can be used to visually check the belts by removing some plugs in the covers.

 

I would suspect the fuel pump as they do go out on older vehicles.  Sometimes you can rap on the pump with something like a screwdriver handle to free it up and see  get the car to start. If so, you need to replace the fuel pump which is easy to do.


Edited by Dee2, 26 April 2013 - 03:46 PM.


#3 tedbull

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 05:05 PM

Thanks Dee2. I will try and troubleshoot the pump further.

 

Here is what I have found so far.

 

1.  When I turn the key to the on position I hear nothing. When I start to twist the key to crank I get a buzzing/vibrating sound from the rear witch I can only imagine is my fuel pump. I cannot tell if it continues when the cranking starts or not. I looked for my fuel pump relay under the passenger dash and could not Identify it since there is a bunch of stuff under there.

 

2. My son came home from school so I pulled a plug and it smelled like fuel but was not realy wet and it looked pretty good. I had him crank and I got some nice spark.

 

3. So I then sprayed some starter fluid down the throttle body and then cranked away. I got nothing.

 

4. I then pulled the exhaust manifolds to see if the exhaust might be plugged. Still nothing. Tried again with starter fluid, and still nothing.

 

 

So, since it would not fire up even with the starter fluid could this be an air supply issue? Is that possible for the TBI system to fail in a way as to not allow enough air into the system that it wont fire off even with starting fluid?



#4 NorthWet

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 05:11 PM

If you are getting some popping in the exhaust, most likely cause is a broken non-distributor side belt, followed closely by losing the screw that holds the rotor on the distributor shaft.  To check if it is the rotor screw, pull the distributor cap and see if you can rotate or remove the rotor by just grabbing it.

 

Fuel system is very unlikely.  you can get the fuel pump to cycle every 5 seconds or so by connecting the single-wire green connectors near your windshield wiper motor.



#5 tedbull

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 06:05 PM

If you are getting some popping in the exhaust, most likely cause is a broken non-distributor side belt, followed closely by losing the screw that holds the rotor on the distributor shaft.  To check if it is the rotor screw, pull the distributor cap and see if you can rotate or remove the rotor by just grabbing it.

 

Fuel system is very unlikely.  you can get the fuel pump to cycle every 5 seconds or so by connecting the single-wire green connectors near your windshield wiper motor.

 

NorthWet, You are a total BadAss. Set screw backed out just like you mentioned. put it back and she fired right up. I owe you a Beer anytime you are in lake stevens. Thanks a Milllion.

 

 

IMAG0353_zps7156c926.jpg

 

 

Since I had good spark I didnt even think to look at the rotor/cap. I will remember that for next time.


Edited by tedbull, 26 April 2013 - 06:07 PM.


#6 NorthWet

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 06:20 PM

That is what we are here for.

 

Enjoy!



#7 MR_Loyale

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 01:27 AM

NorthWet, You are a total BadAss. Set screw backed out just like you mentioned. put it back and she fired right up. I owe you a Beer anytime you are in lake stevens. Thanks a Milllion.

 

 

IMAG0353_zps7156c926.jpg

 

 

Since I had good spark I didnt even think to look at the rotor/cap. I will remember that for next time.

 

That screw that holds the rotor on is very soft. I had one that would come out every 50 miles or so. I had to replace it. Couldn't find it anywhere but the dealer.



#8 superpoo93

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:17 AM

Wow!! It just happened to me... I was racking my brain!!! I checked everything, and kept thinking... It has to be something simple. Could not believe that the screw was sitting right in front of my eyes. Can you say LockTite?? i dont want that to happen again. I just want to thank you all!!

Edited by superpoo93, 10 May 2013 - 11:25 AM.






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