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'80 hatch project


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#1 the sucker king

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 12:53 AM

Some of you might remember this car from this thread a couple years back-

http://www.ultimates...=+blank +canvas

 

"give me the winter and I'll show you something nice" is what I said. In my defense I never specified which winter i was talking about.  I actually did get this car running and plated last winter (the winter of 2011-2012). Then I had trouble with the engine and pulled that out, I figured while it was out I would go ahead and re-do the front end. I aquired some really nice super swampers and rims, but they wouldn't fit on the front (the car had an ozified 3" front 3" back lift) so I wanted to put 6" on the front. Here is the car last spring or so with the 3/3 lift, 29" swampers on the back on 15" wheels and the 14" wheels and tires that were on it before on the front

 

 

 

heres a pic once I pulled the front end out, I hope to have the car sit level like this. It looks like the tires won't clear  in the back, but they do. I bounced the car as hard as I could and becauise of the angle of the trailing arms, the body doesn't rub. If I find out differently when it's done, I'll put another inch or so in the back.

 

 

 

With everthing out of the front I cleaned up the underneath real good, it's amazing how clean this thing is for being 33 years old

 

 

I used 3m ruberized stuff to do the wheel wells properly as well as the undercarrage. here are some pices of the wheel wells cleaned up and ready to paint, gives you an idea of how clean the car is, usually this is where the rust is. Notice in the second pic you can see where I had to beat the crap out of the wheel well so the springs dont rub.

 

 

 

So for most of the lift I basically imitated the ones that Patrick from ozified used to make, here is the tranny and engine parts of the lift I made

 

 

and here is a close-up of the tranny crossmember plate with the lift blocks in.  Like I said it is like the PK Davis lift except I made the front most two mounting points use one block instead of using two cylinder style blocks. This set up feels very strong, If I have any doubts I will have a brace welded in between the rear block and the front one. Notice the 3M ruberized paint, it is Awesome!

 

 

another angle of the mounting plate and the tunnel

 

 

Tranny mounted

 

 

here's the engine portion

 

 

and the engine crossmeber in. That's the steering pump sitting on the tranny, another upgrade I took the oportunity to do

 

 

I put together two of these, all brand new except for the springs. A lot of people don't realize how much stuff is showing up on rock auto.

 

 

and here with the lift blocks, which are early SJR creations. They are cast aluminum, I may try to make replacement from steel sometime down the road, but these seem nice.

 

 

and mounted

 

 

 

 

That's about where it is right now, I am working on the steering linkage using something that looks like maybe it came out of a wrx? It is like the legacy steering linkages I have seen, but with a thick rubber bushing incorperated into it. One thing that worries me is the axel may not clear the steering pump shaft. It barely clears right now with the front of the tranny resting on the engine crossmember. Once the engine is installed, it will bring the axels up a little higher and the inner boot may rub on the steering shaft. There will be no way to know until I put the engine in and see where it sits. Here is a pic of the area.

 

 

 

That's all for now. any bright ideas on the steering linkage or axel clearence is welcome

 

Afterthoughts- I just read over this post and should make something clear when I say "I made", I actually can't weld, cut metal, etc. I had these lift pieces made by a local welder who does nice work. Just didn't want to take credit for something I didn't do. So that's that

 

Fun facts- This car was originally a 2WD car badged as  "DL 1800 AUTOMATIC" truely one of the first gen 2 hatchbacks ever made and one of the first models with an ea81.

It was the second subaru I ever owned, I am up to around 15 now. I bought it I think in 2001, converted to 4WD shortly after and then lifted shortly after that. It was my driver for 5 years and has now spent more time being built (or sitting) than driven during my ownership. Sat in storage once for 2 years!

 

More to come as I get this thing rolling again. I have to get it running again to smog it as my plates are expiring and the town gives me spoob if I don't keep the tags current.

 

 

 



#2 jessegirl94

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 04:01 PM

Awesome Project! I two have a current project, an 82 GL 4 door Hatch with the trademark "Cyclops light" in the grill. I purchased it my junior year of high school and have been tinkering with it ever since. It is not running at the moment due to major damage to my wiring harness by some pesky mice. I have not yet upgraded to a 2.2 but I plan two once I finish college so as of now it is an 1800 w/webber carb and headers, 4x4 4speed, 4in lift (2 in strut 2 inch of block) Bumpers front and rear in progress as well as a custom skid. Is there anyone out your way that may have a harness for my car? I have scavenged everything within this state as well as parts of Washington and Idaho with no luck, everything has been an 83 or newer which wont work. Advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your pics, awesome inspiration!



#3 jonas

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 04:41 PM

Awesome dude.....



#4 the sucker king

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:07 PM

Awesome Project! I two have a current project, an 82 GL 4 door Hatch with the trademark "Cyclops light" in the grill. I purchased it my junior year of high school and have been tinkering with it ever since. It is not running at the moment due to major damage to my wiring harness by some pesky mice. I have not yet upgraded to a 2.2 but I plan two once I finish college so as of now it is an 1800 w/webber carb and headers, 4x4 4speed, 4in lift (2 in strut 2 inch of block) Bumpers front and rear in progress as well as a custom skid. Is there anyone out your way that may have a harness for my car? I have scavenged everything within this state as well as parts of Washington and Idaho with no luck, everything has been an 83 or newer which wont work. Advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing your pics, awesome inspiration!

 

I actually have a bunch of the early gen 2 electrical stuff. do you need the dashboard part of the harness, or the engine bay part, or??

Anything I have would not have the cyclopse stuff, but the dashboard GL harness is probably set up to plug in the cyclopse stuff. PM me if you want to persue that. I have all the electrical diagrams for that 80-82 stuff too. I don't think it's too hard to rig up the cyclops light without the harrness, there is a right up on it around here somewhere.



#5 the sucker king

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:31 PM

For now this is getting a well used ea81, just to get it on the road and figure out my options. I want to put a built-up ea81 in it, but the one I had built for me was nothin but trouble. We'll see just how annoying this thing is to drive on the highway, maybe I'll go the ej22 route, but I do like the idea of keeping true to the pushrod era.

 

So I got this thing

 

IMG_0332_zps592747e4.jpg

 

it was one of the dirtiest motors I've ever seen, but not a lot of oil, mostly dirt

 

IMG_0335_zps58e2024f.jpg

 

and if you don't have a jug of purple power and a power sprayer, I do recommend!

 

I am anxious to mount this so I can solve the steering linkage issue. Just didn't have much time this weekend.

 

the polished turd:

 

IMG_0341_zps5ca5c619.jpg


Edited by the sucker king, 05 May 2013 - 08:32 PM.


#6 VaporTrail

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 10:43 AM

looking good...



#7 rdweninger

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 11:13 AM

Yes, to the Purple Power and Pressure Washer.   I bought an electric pressure washer that has 1600 psi.  Really didn't want to use the 3000 psi gas powered washer.

Funny thing about the Purple Power is that the directions say not to use on aluminum.  Not sure why... cause it sure seems to work great.
Nice paint job on the Hatchie ! 



#8 jessegirl94

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:12 PM

I actually have a bunch of the early gen 2 electrical stuff. do you need the dashboard part of the harness, or the engine bay part, or??

Anything I have would not have the cyclopse stuff, but the dashboard GL harness is probably set up to plug in the cyclopse stuff. PM me if you want to persue that. I have all the electrical diagrams for that 80-82 stuff too. I don't think it's too hard to rig up the cyclops light without the harrness, there is a right up on it around here somewhere.

The interior dashboard harness is what I need.  I am not to worried about having the cyclops light functioning for the moment I just need a vehicle that moves and isn't just a big black lawn ornament. What year is this harness out of specifically? I attempted once before to replace it with an 83 harness but the plugs male to female were not compatible.



#9 the sucker king

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 11:39 PM

I got the engine in and then went about putting the suspension together. Hows this for a sexy front end?

 

Strut assemblies all new except the springs, new axles, radius rod bushings are new, controll arm bushing and ball joints are new, new wheel bearings and seals

 

 

Throw in new tie rods, new discs  upgreaded to the vented ones (car always had the solid ones) and brand new calipers pads etc

 

 

I was psyched to get it back on the ground, It came out kind of huge. I'm 6'2" and the and the hood is at a comfortable height for leaning on my elbow without bending over. getting in it feels like getting in a truck.

 

 

Of course for everything you do you have something else to fix. I can't mount the exhaust. It is a one piece custom exhaust I had made to fit the car when it had a three inch lift in the front, now the exhaust hits the rear driveshaft, so I have to cut the exhaust just to mount the front of it and remove the rear of it from the car. Oh well, I'm learnin while I'm earnin.

 

I thought this was clever, This is what I rigged up to pull the axle through the bearings without a proper tool

 

 

All in all looks like the front end will be a success, as I don't think I will have to cut fenders at all to get these swampers to work. As it sits right now there is 15 inches of clearance under the engine crossmember, That may change as the car gets the rest of the stuff put on it, it will get heavier and maybe the suspension will settle some. The rear diff has 12.5 inches under it. That's cool. The car is pointing up in the front instead of it sitting level like I want. If it doesn't flatten out by the time everything is on, I will have to lift the rear another inch or two. I think the torsion bar is cranked all the way down right now, That might be enough right there to do it, If not I will probably rebuild the rear end in similar fashion to the front, maybe 4 or 5 inch blocks. A third option is to clock the torsion bars a notch, but i think that makes it pretty stiff. Anyone who has done that I would like to hear what your take is on that.

 

 

 

 



#10 VaporTrail

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 05:52 AM

clocking the torsion bar will make it stiffer, and if you ever carry any heavy loads or wheel this really hard, it could fatique and break the torsion bar.  it happened on my Red Brat.

 

I was suprised to see you put the anti-sway on the front.



#11 archemitis

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 09:58 AM

Awesome hatch! I never ran a front swaybar, even at high highway speeds.



#12 rdweninger

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 11:12 AM

Nice work.  I'm taking notes for my '83 Hatchie lift.

Did you hot-dip galv the front knuckle?  Or is that paint?



#13 the sucker king

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 12:43 PM

how does it feel on the highway without a swaybar? I thought that would be scarey.

 

rdweninger- it's high temp engine enamel (spray can). the stuff makes everything look new. I really like it.



#14 VaporTrail

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 06:40 AM

how does it feel on the highway without a swaybar? I thought that would be scarey.

 

rdweninger- it's high temp engine enamel (spray can). the stuff makes everything look new. I really like it.

 

to me it didn't feel much different without the bar,  With Mtngrizz I did a lot of highway driving, plus I was always agressive in town driving and turns/curves...  (Well, agressive as you could be with an EA81 :lol: ) and I never once felt like it was going to lose control...  now, you have a taller lift and taller center of gravity, so you probably would feel it more.  traction is king off road, and you want your suspension to allow the wheels to adjust up and down as needed.  The anti-sway works to keep your suspension level, so if you compress one side, it works to keep the other in line.  you'll raise the other tire off the ground faster and lose traction sooner with that tire.



#15 the sucker king

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 01:29 PM

I had a company called "tubes and hoses" in Loveland, CO make these gorgeous brakelines

 

IMG_0406_zpsab2fe4b8.jpg

 

Engine's down there somewhere

 

IMG_0431_zps4b369851.jpg

 

When I say, "I don't think I'll have to cut the fenders at all" what I mean is " I will have to cut the crap out of the fenders for the swampers to fit". So for now Pat Davis sent me these gorgeous pugs witch I painted and mounted  a set of 205/70/15 yokohama geolanders ( great tires I might add) and I will set out to experiment with a spare set of fenders I have, I don't want to cut these beauties I have on the car, but we'll get those swampers figured out, maybe I will swap fenders to run with the swampers every summer, something like that. Oh yea, pat's wheels with the geolanders:

 

IMG_0425_zpsc49d994e.jpg

 

 made the car run like crap but got tired of tinkering and ran her through emissions, failed first time, took her back a week later after I made her run nice and she passed, ran super clean in fact. Here she is at Longmont emissions

 

IMG_0429_zpsee8245cf.jpg

 

And after mounting up a bumper, 3 inch lift in rear adjusted all the way down, 6 inch lift in the front, adjusted all the way up:

 

IMG_0436_zps0494454b.jpg

 

IMG_0437_zps47741c38.jpg

 

She is plated now, street legal and I am back to driving her as I please, but will be an on-going thing for sure. Next up, I have to figure out how to make the swampers work, I would like to be able do run them with both front and back suspension adjusted all the way down. Also need to fix my steering extention. , which has a little wobble in it. Not bad or dangerous, but not 100% right. This car must be 100% right!  I drove her up the canyon by my house this weekend, a paved state highway, first real test of the suspension on a windy road. it rides really nice, i am very pleased with the new front end.


Edited by the sucker king, 10 June 2013 - 01:30 PM.


#16 the sucker king

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 09:52 PM

I forgot to ask if anyone has any nifty ideas for mounting the 4 wheel drive lever. either to work looking stock or i wouldn't mind a joystick situation



#17 ShawnW

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 12:18 AM

I forgot to ask if anyone has any nifty ideas for mounting the 4 wheel drive lever. either to work looking stock or i wouldn't mind a joystick situation

 

I have been just drilling out the stock mount and welding the proper mount in on my originally automatic cars.  Small plate that the two bolts mount to comes out in about 20 minutes with a chisel and a spot weld drill bit at the yard.  



#18 the sucker king

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 02:47 PM

I have been just drilling out the stock mount and welding the proper mount in on my originally automatic cars.  Small plate that the two bolts mount to comes out in about 20 minutes with a chisel and a spot weld drill bit at the yard.  

 

It's not so much the inside mounting that is a problem as the new angles of the shift linkage. I remember when the car had a 3 inch lift the shift stick would slap the 4wd lever when you put it in reverse. (and on the ozified 3 inch lift the tranny was actually only dropped 2") now with a true 6" at the tranny, there is no way the  two levers will share the same entry point to the car. And, with all that angle on the 4wd selector rod, It is extremely difficult to put it into/out of 4wd. Picture the linkage, on a stock vehicle the 4wd selector rod, which attaches nearest the tranny with a ball joint, sits almost horizontal. Now it's at a 45 degree angle or so, you have to use a lot of force to move it. Right now I have to get under the car to put it in/out of 4wd.

I am thinking a simple joystick, mounted about where the stock 4wd selector sits, straight down through the tunnel, keeping the lower part of the selector roughly horizontal. that ought to do the trick. What did you do on your lifted wagon (do you still have that thing)? How much lift was on it at the tranny?



#19 the sucker king

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 03:01 PM

last weekend was a good one, I got my "hombre" fenders (don't ask) painted and mounted. They are the sacrificial fenders I will use to figure out where to modify. Once i am sure, I will give my nice fenders to a buddy of mine who does body work really well, and we shall make them work. Till then I will rock the hombre fenders. you can see in these pics there is more cut away from the fender than need be, and the seem in the wheel well that needed beating down. That seem lays down real easy, I bent it little by little with vise grips, then wacked it with a hammer. This set up now I have not had any rubbing issues at all with the swampers, I did run it up on an easy trail, but had to keep it in 2wd for the reasons discussed above. This weekend I will put it to a bit more of a test. Other than that, still lots of work to do, stop one leak at a time (a lot of leaks) and put an interior together. Skid plate too.

 

 

 

 

Hombre!

 

 



#20 the sucker king

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 11:28 PM

double post


Edited by the sucker king, 23 July 2013 - 11:29 PM.


#21 the sucker king

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 11:28 PM

I have bold plans for rebuilding the rear end, but in the meantime i just want to drive this while I work out the bugs. I had a bad wheel bearing in the rear nearly end my life, so I figured I would start there. i pulled out both trailing arms, painted them, put in new bearings and seals as well as new bushings for the pivot point (you can't get these, but the bushings for the front control arms seem to work just fine)

 

 

now at this point I really wanted to put in rear disks, but I am having a hard time finding the backing plates and hubs. I have brand new rotors and calipers waiting to go in. If anybody can help me out with backing plates and hubs, please get in touch. In the meantime a band-aid. At least it's a nice band-aid. new hardware, cylinders and shoes, plus I rebuilt the adjusters. the shoes were actually a new set I had for a gen one, the frames are different, but they seem to fit and they work fine.

 

 

So that's where it's at now. Next is a custum y-pipe, custom 4wd shift linkage, and cut and remount the good fenders. Baby steps. this is going to take a while, But i will say it's fun as hell to drive, I was turnin heads from one side of Longmont to the other today, and on the trail It is definately way more capable than it was before I did all this stuff. it drove from Bunce school to Camp wongleflute like it was a street (any locals following this thread?) That's all for now.

Oh no there is one more thing I added brand new rear halfshafts too.



#22 the sucker king

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 11:32 PM

Apparently Camp D.ic.k gets changed to camp wongleflute on the site now. So if my name is Richard, and I want to go by wongleflute?






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