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GL-10 resurrection


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46 replies to this topic

#26 Gloyale

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 11:13 AM

5 spds from turbo car will be 3.7, whether its single range, dual range, part time or full time 4wd

All the non turbos are 3.9

#27 mr sarcastic

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 04:30 PM

here it is.   not in immaculate shape, but not too bad for the north east.


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr

this is a marvel of engineering.   luckely he still had the oem setup so i'm gonna probably put it back on if i cant fix this.


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr

coolant is shooting from under the intake here.  


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr

i thought this was from a massive oil leak, turns out to the "Rusty Jones" anti corrosion stuff.


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr

you think these are for the original fog lights?  its got the switch on the dash, and the window sticker said it came with them.....


Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr



#28 NorthWet

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 05:07 PM

Wow the filter setup looks... incredible.  Not only does it intake hot engine room air, but it also does a sharp turn just prior to the hot-wire flow sensor.  Is that a dry filter, or is it an oiled- K&N filter?  Oil and hot-wire MAF don't mix well.

 

That coolant leak is most likely from that little hose right above it, the one that runs from a tube (air-vent) on the top of the block to the T-stat housing.  Very common problem.



#29 AKghandi

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 05:00 AM

Just thought I would include a little helpful information... The turbo 3AT front axles are 23 spline and turbo 5mt are 25 spline.So you shouldn't need to replace your front axles unless you get a turbo transmission. also don't forget to switch to fly wheel bolts, they are longer.

 

 

I spy an accel coil... not sure if thats the correct one.  some performance coils like that are bad for the ignition module.



#30 mr sarcastic

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:42 PM

That's on my list, oem coil.


I sorted through the records today. Within the last 20k, the timing belt was done, head gasket/water pump/radiator replaced, oil pump and lifters replaced, fuel tank/filler neck/fuel pump/charcoal canister replaced, brakes redone, air shocked replaced with conventional, and other miscellaneous stuff done, all at the dealer. This older couple took ridiculous care of this car. I just hope the grandson didn't completely destroy in the 5000 miles he had it....

#31 NorthWet

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:56 PM

Mis-posted.  My apologies.


Edited by NorthWet, 13 May 2013 - 07:59 PM.


#32 AKghandi

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 11:05 PM

Does it still have the compressor and tank in the drivers front fender? if so you can retro-fit it to be an on board air system. not good enough for air tools, but would air up tires



#33 mr sarcastic

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 04:53 AM

Ha, I'll have to check it out. I had put air ride into my wife's vw gti, it can in handy when we had a slow leak in one of the tires.

#34 l75eya

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 10:14 PM

Holy hell big air filter!



#35 mr sarcastic

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 12:03 PM

UPDATE! It's 99% done and ready for the road. Did the 5 speed swap, swapped the power steering to manual, put the intake back to original, put an oem coil (from the donor carbed car), many new coolant hoses, swapped over the new front brakes from the donor, and probably more stuff I'm forgetting. All I need to do now is bleed the brakes and top the coolant and tranny oil.
I hit the key last night to make sure it ran and it took some cranking to get it to start. Once it did it ran real rough.... It started to do this before I started working on it, but I was hoping the oem intake would fix it. I pulled the plugs, they were toast. I threw in the plugs from my carbed engine and it fired right up. I only let it run for a 20-30 seconds considering its empty on coolant, but the rpms rose to 2k and the CEL came on. So, how do I read the code? I'm used to vw's where I need a code reader.... Also, for more info, I kept all the automatic transmission stuff in the car. I pulled the electronic portion off the shifter and kept it in neutral. So now the car starts and hopefully will be happy with life thinking its in nuetral.

#36 wagonist

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 09:15 PM

You can pull the electronic portion off the shifter & just permanently join the 2 thickest wires together. The 3 speed auto has no electronic brain and isn't connected to the engine ECU in any way.

 

Under the dash up near the steering column & fuse box, there should be 2 bright green plugs with no locking clips. I can't remember how many wires are actually in the plug, but if you plug them together, and (I forget the next bit) then the ECS light will flash for different things when the ignition is at "ON" (without engine running), and also with the engine running.

I'm sure there's info on here about what the codes will mean.



#37 mr sarcastic

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 05:22 AM

I did some research and came across this. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
I've read something about an "auto kick down" relay or circuit on automatics. It's connected to the automatic teansmission and will make things funky when you eliminate the automatic setup?

#38 mr sarcastic

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 07:49 PM

Read the code, 21 coolant temp circuit. I was just in there and noticed the connection was pretty green. I'm gonna clean it up and see if that'll do it. Can't wait to get this thing on the road....

#39 mr sarcastic

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 07:50 PM

Read the code, 21 coolant temp circuit. I was just in there and noticed the connection was pretty green. I'm gonna clean it up and see if that'll do it. Can't wait to get this thing on the road....

#40 mr sarcastic

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 12:48 PM

well, i dropped it off the jack stands and ripped it up and down the street!   it pulled nice, shifted smooth, but i'm still having an issue with the coolant temp sensor.   it starts hard, idles high, sets off the CEL when its unplugged....   but when its plugged in, the CEL turns off and it runs super rich.   it wont rev up its running so rich.    so, i ordered a new one from rockauto ($8) along with a new o2 sensor and spark plugs.   altogether shipped it was just shy of $40, worth the money too me.   anything else i should change right now in regards to the fuel injection?   the MAF was pricey so i passed, but there was an air intake charge temp sensor that i almost got.  not sure it that really does anything though.....



#41 mr sarcastic

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 04:41 PM

So far so good, the more I drive it the better it runs.
But, now I'm having an issue with heat, I'm getting none. One hose is hot, one is just warm, heater core is clogged. I'm gonna soak it in CLR and flush it, but I'm thinking about replacing it, a new one is $80 on RA. How do these units come out? Does the entire heater box need to come out? Maybe through the passenger side foot well?

#42 Gloyale

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 05:58 PM

h
Untitled by phillipcdube, on Flickr

this is a marvel of engineering.   luckely he still had the oem setup so i'm gonna probably put it back on if i cant fix this.

8726149379_bdb86a8e7c_b.jpg
 Flickr

 

That PCV hose needs to be DOWNSTREAM of the MAF.  Huge unmetered air leak.

 

Change that setup ASAP.



#43 mr sarcastic

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 06:28 PM

Yes, that has been already changed back to stock. Any advice on how to remove the heater core?

#44 Gloyale

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 06:29 PM

Yes, that has been already changed back to stock. Any advice on how to remove the heater core?

 

lower steering column.  Remove the dash



#45 mr sarcastic

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 06:30 PM

Damn, that's not what I wanted to hear. I just had the steering column out when I changed the pedal cluster....

#46 Gloyale

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 06:49 PM

You can try cutting the end off a garden hose, and using it to flush the heater core.

 

remove both lines and hook up the garden hose to one of them and turn it on and flush till the water is clear.  Switch lines and flush in reverse.  Repeat til satisfied.

 

Often this helps........but honestly, removeing the core and cleaning out the ducting is often worth it too on a car that has been sitting.



#47 mr sarcastic

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 06:55 PM

That's the first plan of action. A flush, then to pour CLR into it, let it sit, then another flush. I'm assuming that if the HC is clogged that the radiator isn't far off so replacing that is gonna be next on the list.




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